A traveller's reflection: Laos

Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts

Tuesday, 24 December 2019

Thailand/Cambodia/Laos 2019: Q8 4ND - Our great 4x4 Year-end Adventure...

“Travel opens your heart, broadens your mind and fills your life with stories to tell…” - Paula Bendfeldt

(The beginning of a 23-day 4x4 road trip)

Since my spinal bone operation in January 2019, we had only one short distance riding trip with our KTM motorbike and limit our overland travel in Malaysia and Thailand with our reliable Merc or with our 4x4 Bigfoot, always remembering to wear my neck brace to protect from injury when handling bad roads and rough terrains.

After being bedridden for almost 3 months, consumed all my medications and skipped most of my physiotherapy sessions, to the horror of my Spine Specialist, I was again up and about. The rest of the year we had the opportunity to perform our Umrah combined with Oman Trip in April, Kembara Masjid Thailand during Ramadhan in May, Japan Scout Cross-cultural Program in June, Mongolia Autumn trip in September and, Da Nang Vietnam Monsoon trip in November.

Since mid-year we charted routing plans for our year-end 4-Nation Kembara trip covering Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos and included visits to border towns of Singkhon, Thailand/Myanmar border, Boten, Laos/China border and the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, Laos/Myanmar/Thailand border. We arranged for letters from the Embassies to assist in vehicle clearance to cross into Cambodia and Laos borders and prepared travel itineraries for the respective countries. Border crossings in and out of Thailand, as usual, were simple and easy.

Finally, in December 2019, the two of us embarked in the 4-Nation trip with the Bigfoot, our red Toyota Hi-Lux 4x4 pick-up, strong and inconspicuous on the road. Initially we were a little worried driving on the right side of the road in Cambodia and Laos, notorious for their busy, narrow and not fully tarmac roads. It was quite a daunting experience, but we got used to it after the first few days.

In total, we spent 23 days on the road, covered the distance of about 9,200km and spent almost RM10k on expenses. The journey gave us priceless experience, reaching and exploring new places beyond borders and cultures, requiring a lot of patient and perseverance.

It was one of our best overland trips ever …

2019 4ND: 01 Kuala Lumpur - Hatyai👉

09 Q8 4ND: Stung Treng - Pakse

“Let me tell you the secret that has led to my goal. My strength lies solely in my tenacity...” - Louis Pasteur

(Fast clearance at Cambodia/Laos borders)

Day 09: 09 Dec 2019 (Monday)
Route: Stung Treng - Pakse
Distance: 221 km
Hotel: Seng Aroun Hotel, Pakse

07:00 - Breakfast of half boiled eggs and bread in the hotel room. Met two Singaporean ladies doing some charity works for the Muslim community in Cambodia.

(Mr Zuhdi, the local guide for the Singaporeans)

07:30 - Checked out and drove to Cambodia Trapeang Kriel/Laos Nong Nok Khiene border.
07:45 - From Stung Treng we crossed the Mekong River and headed to the border. The 80km road is still bumpy and dusty but with less potholes. It took us nearly 2 hours to reach the border.

(Crossing the Mekong River)

(The start of a bumpy dusty drive)

(Better condition compared to previous years)

(A mile stone to Dom Kralar)

(Last Tela Depo before border crossing)

09:00 - Reached the border and got our papers ready for border clearance, anticipating a lengthy process as usual although we had with us all the proper papers from both Cambodia and Laos Embassies.
09:30 - Paid coffee money of Riel4,000 at the Cambodia gate. Got our vehicle clearance papers at the Custom counter and passport stamped at the Immigration counter. No fee was paid at both counters.
09:45 - At Laos border gate paid coffee money of Kip2,000. Paid Kip20,000 each for passport stamping and no fee paid for Custom vehicle clearance paper. Surprisingly, border clearance was efficient at both borders. It took us less than an hour to be cleared.

(A small token for coffee money paid here)

(Cambodia Immigration Complex)

(Taking a breather at no-man's land)

(Laos Immigration Complex)

(Waiting for vehicle clearance)

(Yeay! our Bigfoot is entering Laos for the first time)

10:00 - On the way to Pakse took a detour to Khong Island. Khong Island is the largest island in the Mekong River in Laos. The island is 18km and 8km at its widest point. The former President of Laos, has a residence on the island, which is a possible explanation for the high-quality of infrastructure. Tourist can travel on longtail boats to visit to the nearby Don Det and Don Khon islands, where it is possible to view the Khone Phapheng Falls. We visited the guesthouse we used to stay in 2015 Q4 and we had pancake and lemon tea drinks for brunch at Pon’s Restaurant.

(A clear sky and cool weather)

(Crossing the Mekong River to Khong Island)

(A wooden bridge to Pon Guesthouse)

(Our lodging in 2015)

(Reminiscing good old memory here)

(Pon Restaurant by Mekong River)

(A peaceful serene ambiance)

(The river is dotted with numerous islands)

(Si Phan Don is also known as 4000 islands)

(The small islands will be submerged during flood)

(Things to do in Don Khong)

12:45 - Stopped for comfort break at a gas station on the way to Pakse.

(Beware of water buffaloes crossing)

(A herd of cows crossing the road)

(Arriving at the town of Pakse)

13:30 - Arrived in Pakse and drove direct to Hassan Halal Indian Restaurant, the only halal restaurant in town.

(Relief hunger pangs before looking for lodging)

(Varieties of local and western dishes)

(Meals for two hungry people)

15:00 - Checked in Seng Aroun Hotel for Kip240,000/night with breakfast.

(Clean and spacious room)

17:00 - Drove to Bolaven Plataeu to watch the sunset. In 2015 we stayed at one of the Chalets near the twin waterfalls of Tad Fane.

(The Bolaven Plateau ahead)

(An accident closing half the road)

(A new toll booth)

(Less traffic in the evening)

(A beautiful sunset over the plateau)

18:45 - Bought provisions at Friendship Supermarket next to our hotel.
19:00 - Dinner with bread and spicy mutton curry packed from Hassan Restaurant in the hotel room.

👈Q8 4ND: 10 Siem Reap - Stung Treng

Q8 4ND: 08 Pakse - Thakhek👉

10 Q8 4ND: Pakse - Thakhek

“The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will...” - Vince Lombardi Jr.

(A beautiful moment to treasure)

Day 10: 10 Dec 2019 (Tuesday)
Route: Pakse - Thakhek
Distance: 331 km
Hotel: Mekong Hotel, Thakhek

07:00 - Had heavy breakfast in the hotel cafe.
08:00 - Checked out a little later than usual. Today we would be driving direct to Thakhek and the road is supposed to be good.

(A good heavy breakfast before the road trip)

(Salad and fruits, a must for breakfast)

08:20 - Refuelled at a petrol station near the airport and changed our off-coloured genuine USD100.

(A good place to buy provisions)

(Fuel is expensive in Laos)

(Driving out of Pakse)

(Less traffic early in the morning)

(Commuters for daily workers)

(30km/hr speed limit in town)

10:00 - Coffee stop at a PTT petrol station in Khongxedone.

(A short break to straighten our backs)

(More PTT Cafe Amazon along the route)

(That cat is trying to hitch a hike)

(My favorite peanut biscuits for snack)

10:30 - Drove carefully and followed the speed limit especially crossing the villages and small towns. There were many road blocks along the route and we got stopped a few times. After we showed our travel documents we were allowed to continue our journey. Through our previous experience in Laos, local authorities here are usually friendly but strict.

(Animals and children hogging the road)

(A quiet trunk road)

(Keeping to the speed limit at all time)

(Road obstruction is not an offense here)

13:30 - Stopped at Lattanaphonephasouk Hotel at Xeno and took some photo shots to reminisce our first Kembara Qurban trip. We used to stay here during Q1 riding trip in 2012.