Labuan Bajo – My Heart Is in Turmoil…

"Our anxiety does not empty tomorrow of its sorrows, but only empties today of its strengths..." - C.H. Spurgeon

(Phinisi boat, Labuan Bajo)

For the past few months, we have been caught up in a whirlwind of festivities, doctors’ visits and, sadly, the passing of loved ones. All these left us with little time to even think about planning another trip.

Once the havoc began to settle, we started browsing travel brochures and websites, looking for somewhere interesting - preferably a destination we had never ventured to before. Then, quite unexpectedly, a friend called and invited me to join a few other ladies for a holiday in Labuan Bajo, Flores Island, Indonesia. And, as always, hubby was more than happy to accompany me, even though this was supposed to be an all-ladies group!

Green Land Travel and Tours, a local travel agent helped arrange our flights and took care of all the ground arrangements. Everything was booked and paid for in full a month before our departure. The itinerary sounded exciting. We would explore some beautiful places, spend a few days sailing on a phinisi, go snorkelling, trekking and caving, and, of course, visit Komodo Island to see the famous Komodo dragons - another item on our travel bucket list.

(The endangered Komodo Dragon - google pic)

We were filled with excitement and had already started making preparations for the trip. Then, just two weeks before our departure, came the shocking news. On 15 August, a powerful 7.7-magnitude earthquake struck the Flores region, followed by thousands of aftershocks expected to trigger a tsunami. The disaster caused considerable damage in parts of Flores and, tragically, many lives were lost.

Suddenly, our excitement was replaced by worry.

The news seemed to be filled with earthquakes and natural disasters from all over the world. And here we were, with our departure date just around the corner, heading towards a place that had only recently experienced such a major disaster.

According to our travel agent, Labuan Bajo was recovering and tourism activities were continuing, while the authorities remained vigilant about the situation. I am excited about the journey, yet at the same time, my heart is filled with anxiety. Perhaps this is one of those moments when we simply have to place our trust in Allah, take all reasonable precautions, and leave the rest to Him.

In a few days' time, we will leave for Labuan Bajo. The bags were packed, the passports ready, and the excitement will hopefully overcome the anxiety. We can plan our journeys, but ultimately, our safety is in Allah's hands.

Bismillah… Labuan Bajo, here we come.

(Sailing on a Liveaboard Phinisi)

Labuan Bajo Adventure Itinerary:

01 - The Journey Begins...

02 - First Night at Sea...

03 - Into the Heart of Komodo...

04 - From the Sea to Golo Mori...

05 - A Taste of Flores Cultures...

06 - Leaving with unforgettable Memory...

01 - The Journey Begins...

“Every journey begins with a single step, but the best ones begin with a little anticipation.”

(My first glimpse of Labuan Bajo harbour)

Date: 31/08/2026 (Monday)
Flight AK310: KUL - LBJ
Hotel: Meruorah Komodo Hotel, Labuan Bajo

Today was Malaysian Independence Day.

At 4.30 am, we quietly loaded all our bags into our Hilux pickup and drove to KLIA Airport in the stillness of the early morning. We parked at the Long-Term Car Park, which we had booked online earlier.

At KLIA2, our group of nine gathered for an early check-in. During the introductions, I could sense a certain tension in the group. There were worried faces and a little uncertainty about what lay ahead, especially in the aftermath of the recent major earthquakes. None of us really knew what to expect from the trip.

 

(Waiting for another member from Singapore)

(Ready to board the plane)

Our AirAsia flight, AK310, departed on time. After a four-hour flight, we landed safely at Komodo International Airport in Labuan Bajo, the modern gateway to this beautiful corner of Indonesia and the famous Komodo National Park. Conveniently located just about 2 km from the town centre and main harbour, the airport makes the transition from flight to hotel or speedboat remarkably easy.

(Komodo International Airport)

(Arrived safely in Labuan Bajo)

Airport clearance was smooth, and we were met by Rafi, our cameraman-cum-tour guide, who would be accompanying us throughout the trip. From the airport, we headed towards our hotel in Labuan Bajo.

Before checking in, we made our first stop at Puncak Waringin Viewpoint, one of the most accessible elevated viewpoints in the heart of Labuan Bajo. From here, we had a spectacular panoramic view of the harbour, the traditional Phinisi boats and the surrounding tropical islands of Komodo National Park. The calm blue waters of the bay, dotted with boats and islands, were a beautiful welcome to Labuan Bajo. For a while, at least, the worries in our hearts seemed to drift away with the gentle sea breeze.

 

(Panoramic view from Puncak Waringin Viewpoint)

We checked in at Meruorah Komodo Hotel. The hotel has been thoughtfully designed with clean, understated aesthetics that complement rather than compete with the natural beauty outside. Our Horizon Sea View room was comfortable and welcoming, and we enjoyed a tastefully prepared Indonesian packed lunch there.

(The Labuan Bajo Marina in the background)

(Our spacious room in Meruorah Hotel)

The lunch arrived in a traditional woven bamboo basket - a simple yet charming touch that gave the meal an eco-friendly and distinctly Indonesian character. It felt like a warm welcome to our first day in Labuan Bajo.

(Having packed lunch at the balcony, overlooking the harbour)

Our First Sunset in Labuan Bajo

Our original itinerary was to watch the sunset from the hotel rooftop. Instead, plans changed and we headed out for a sunset dinner at Taman Laut Handayani Seafood Restaurant, just a short drive from the hotel.

 

(The sun is setting over the horizon)

Perched near Puncak Waringin, the restaurant offered a lovely uninterrupted view of Labuan Bajo harbour, the Phinisi boats and the surrounding sea. As the sun slowly descended, we settled down to dinner and enjoyed a spread of Indonesian dishes. Among them, the signature grilled fish served with Indonesian sambal was a particular favourite of ours.

(Absorbing the view from the restaurant's upper floor)

(Sunset dinner at Taman Laut Handayani)

After dinner, we walked back towards the hotel, passing through Wisata Kuliner Kampung Ujung, the lively open-air waterfront food market of Labuan Bajo.

Located right beside the harbour, the market comes alive in the evening as local vendors set up rows of stalls displaying the day's fresh catch. The colourful seafood, bustling atmosphere and variety of fresh juices made it an interesting glimpse into the local evening scene.

(Vibrant coloured fish at the market)

Back at Meruorah Komodo Hotel, we spent some quiet time looking out at the marina. The lights reflected beautifully on the water, illuminating the traditional Phinisi boats and smaller local vessels. Their reflections shimmered like a mirror beneath the night sky. 

Lingering worries aside, it was a beautiful and memorable ending to our first day in Labuan Bajo.

(A fleet of phinisis anchoring for the night)

 
And there was something particularly special about this trip. We were here to celebrate our 47th wedding anniversary, in a place neither of us had visited before, surrounded by new friends, beautiful islands and the promise of adventures yet to come. For now, we were simply grateful to have arrived safely.

02 - First Night at Sea...

“The sea has a way of reminding us how wonderfully small we are in this vast world...”

(Watching giant fruit bats during sunset)

Date: 01/09/2026 (Tuesday)
Activity: Rangko Cave & Sailing Day 01
Destination: Rangko Cave, Kelor Island and Kalong Island

Today began on a particularly special note - it was our 47th wedding anniversary.

We celebrated with breakfast at the rooftop Bay Restaurant, where we enjoyed a panoramic view of the bay. The breakfast spread was excellent, offering a generous selection of international favourites. We had omelettes, waffles, pancakes, assorted pastries and freshly baked breads. The coffee was particularly good - we kept asking for refills!

(The early birds, celebrating their 47th Anniversary)

(The view of Labuan Bajo Marina from the rooftop)

It was a hearty and satisfying breakfast, just what we needed to keep us going until lunch later, when we would be dining aboard our phinisi.

(Girls just wanna have fun...)

(Celebrating Independence Day in Labuan Bajo)

Turquoise pool of Rangko Cave

After breakfast, we headed to Tanjung Boleng, a coastal landmark tucked beneath lush, steep hills along the shoreline. It is one of the departure points for travellers heading to the famous Rangko Caves.

(Mural on the wall - a man riding a Komodo Dragon)

As it was low tide, reaching our boat was an adventure in itself. We had to be pulled across the shallow water on a rather makeshift raft to get to the boat. It was certainly an unusual, and memorable way to begin our excursion!

(The sea at low tide)

(Wading in the low tide to the speed boat)

(Boarding a makeshift raft for a fee)

(A villager pulling the raft to the speedboaat)

(Safely on board, to Rangko Island)

From Tanjung Boleng, it was about a 15-minute boat ride by speedboat across the sparkling waters of the Flores Sea to Rangko Island. From the landing point, we trekked for several minutes under the hot sun before finally reaching Rangko Cave. The cave is a beautiful limestone ocean cavern, famous for its hidden, crystal-clear turquoise saltwater pool. Unlike conventional inland caves, Rangko is connected to the sea through fissures in the limestone. The mineral-rich seawater gives the pool an extraordinary clarity and buoyancy, making it a wonderful place for a refreshing swim.

(Crystal clear waters of Rangko Island)

(The jetty of the uninhabited Rangko Island)

(A secluded beach of Rangko Island)

(The start of a short climb to Rangko Cave)

And yes, we had come prepared to swim! After enjoying our time at the cave, we made our way back to Tanjung Boleng on the NTT mainland. We were more than ready for the fresh coconut juice waiting for us there. After the heat and exertion of our excursion, that cold, refreshing coconut water tasted absolutely wonderful.

(Sharp rugged stone steps into the pool)

(Natural light reflection of Rangko blue pool)

(The best lighting was from 2.30 pm - 3.00 pm)

(A refreshing coconut drink after the steep climb)

Our First Liveaboard Phinisi Experience

Back in Labuan Bajo, we headed to the Marina waterfront to board our traditional phinisi. These magnificent handcrafted wooden vessels are an important part of Indonesia's maritime heritage. Because of their considerable draft, they cannot always come right up to the shallow piers. Instead, they anchor in deeper water, and passengers are ferried out to them by tender boat. It was roughly ten-minute ride to our waiting phinisi. And there she was - our home for the next three days.

(On board of the phinisi - the beginning of our sailing adventure)

Modern phinisi liveaboards beautifully combine traditional Indonesian wooden craftsmanship with the comforts of a modern vessel. Our boat had comfortable cabins, a cosy dining area and all the facilities needed for our adventure, including a tender boat and equipment for snorkelling and diving.

(A spacious room with attached bathroom)

(Each room has a cozy balcony)

Soon after boarding, we sat down to our first lunch on board. Dining aboard a traditional Indonesian phinisi is part of the experience itself. The meals are generally centred around fresh local ingredients, particularly fish and seafood sourced from local markets and fishermen. Our first lunch was hearty and filling, and we certainly enjoyed it.

(A spread of delicious dishes awaited us)

(Our first meal on board of the phinisi)

Swimming With Baby Sharks at Kelor Island

After a short rest, it was time for our first island stop.

We sailed towards Kelor Island, a small, uninhabited island within the Komodo National Park. With its white sandy beach, clear turquoise waters and beautiful panoramic viewpoints, Kelor is often the perfect introduction to the islands before venturing deeper into Komodo territory.

(Off to Kelor Island)

(Joining the girls for a dip)

I joined the ladies for a swim in the shallow waters while hubby decided to tackle the climb to the summit. It was only about a 15-minute climb, but it was extremely steep, with an incline of roughly 45 degrees over loose soil and dry grass. Not exactly an easy climb!

(A few steps more to the viewpoint)

(The view from the summit)

But the effort was rewarded with a spectacular 360° panoramic view - the brilliant turquoise waters surrounding the island, stretching towards the silhouette of Flores in the distance. The descent was another matter altogether. With the steep slope and loose ground, hubby had to make his way down very carefully. It could have been quite dangerous if one wasn't cautious.

(Good humored cheerful baby sharks)

(Caught one in the shallow waters)

Back on the beach, we took a leisurely stroll along the white sand. Then came an unexpected little treat - we spotted baby sharks swimming remarkably close to the shoreline, darting playfully through the shallow water. What a sight!

Back aboard our phinisi, we enjoyed afternoon tea with fried bananas generously topped with grated cheese, accompanied by refreshing dragon fruit juice. Cookies, coffee and tea were also available throughout the day.

Bats Watching During Sunset at Kalong Island

As the afternoon faded, the phinisi sailed on towards Kalong Island, where we would anchor for the night. Kalong is famous for its spectacular sunset and for the thousands of giant fruit bats that take flight around dusk. As the sun slipped towards the horizon, the sky turned a beautiful shade of orange. Then, almost as if on cue, thousands of fruit bats began emerging from the island.

(Sailing towards Kalong Island during dusk)

(Anchoring for the night at Kalong Island)

(Thousands of fruit bats emerging from Kalong Island)

Watching them take flight against the glowing evening sky was magical. What struck me most was the almost awe-inspiring silence of the spectacle. The bats simply glided overhead, one after another, passing directly over our phinisi as they began their nightly journey.

It was one of those moments that photographs can never quite capture.

Our First Night at Sea

Our Muslim chef, Pak Ramdan, prepared a delicious seafood-based dinner for us that evening. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to enjoy much of it. My stomach was beginning to feel a little queasy. While everyone else was enjoying themselves listening to music and stargazing from the top deck, I stayed in bed, nursing a slight nausea.

(Everyday can end beautifully)

The choppy sea conditions had aggravated my existing vestibular issues, and the gentle rocking of the traditional wooden phinisi was no longer feeling quite so gentle to me! So, while the others enjoyed the evening under the stars, I decided that the best thing I could do was rest. After all, tomorrow promised another full day of exciting discoveries.

Hopefully, I would wake up feeling much better in the morning.