“Sometimes the journey changes direction, not because we planned it that way, but because the road has other plans for us...”
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| (Thai/Laos border at Nakhon Phanom) |
Date: 18 September 2026, Friday
Route: Nakhon Phanom - Udon Thani
Hotel: B2 Udon Thani Boutique & Budget Hotel
We started the morning simply with bread, half-boiled eggs and coffee before checking out at around 8.30 am. Our next stop was the border. As we drove the thirty minutes towards the Nakhon Phanom ICQS, we mentally went through our checklist of documents once again. There was a mixture of anticipation and quiet anxiety. After all the preparation, we were finally about to find out whether our plan to drive our Hi-Lux into Laos would actually work.
The border, however, was surprisingly quiet. Traffic was light, with mostly commercial lorries moving through the checkpoint. What caught our attention was the absence of foreign-registered vehicles and even foreign motorbikes. It was almost too quiet for an international crossing.
Then came the unexpected news. At the Thailand Immigration counter, we were informed that we could not cross into Laos from Nakhon Phanom that day. We were told that we could try another crossing, such as Nong Khai. Apparently, the rules governing private vehicles can vary between Thailand–Laos border checkpoints, and restrictions may sometimes be imposed depending on the current arrangements and policies at the particular crossing. For independent travellers with their own vehicles, this can mean additional requirements or, in some cases, the need to travel as part of an organised arrangement.
For us, the news was disappointing, but not devastating. We have crossed land borders several times before with our motorbikes and our Hi-Lux, so we knew that border crossings could sometimes be unpredictable. With the current border situation and revised regulations, we decided not to force the issue. The alternative would have been to join a tour group and leave our beloved pick-up behind in Thailand. That was not what we had planned. So, just like that, our Laos chapter for this trip came to an end before it even began.
Rather than dwell on the disappointment, we decided to make the most of our remaining time in Nakhon Phanom before continuing towards Udon Thani. We walked over to Phaya Sri Satta Nakarat Plaza, the iconic naga landmark along the Mekong waterfront. Dominating the plaza is a magnificent seven-headed bronze Naga, standing proudly against the backdrop of the river. The place was unusually lively that morning. A local running event was scheduled to start from the plaza over the weekend, and people were busy preparing for it. There was an air of excitement all around - a reminder that even when our own plans had changed, life in the city carried happily on.
Before embarking on the long drive to Udon Thani, we stopped at a PTT station in Nakhon Phanom to pick up sandwiches and snacks for a simple lunch on the road.
Our journey towards Udon Thani took us through Sakon Nakhon, where we made a small detour to Nurul Islam Mosque, the only mosque in Sakon Nakhon. The mosque was designed with accessibility in mind, including wheelchair access, something we always appreciate seeing in places of worship. We happened to arrive just after Friday prayers, when the congregation was enjoying a communal feast. The gathering was warm and welcoming, and we were reminded once again that mosques are more than places of prayer, they are also places where communities come together, share food and strengthen bonds.
The journey became increasingly challenging as heavy rain came down along the way to Udon Thani. Still, we kept going, maintaining a steady speed and taking care along the wet roads. Thankfully, we reached Udon Thani before dark.
For tonight, we checked into B2 Udon Boutique & Budget Hotel, located in the heart of town. The three-star property has a minimalist design, comfortable rooms and reasonable rates. It also seemed particularly popular with younger travellers.
Dinner was at Mahboobi Restaurant, a halal eatery conveniently located next to Masjid Quwatil Islam Udon Thani. Interestingly, during our previous visit to Udon Thani in December 2025, there had been several halal eateries around the area. This time, however, Mahboobi appeared to be the only one still operating.
By the end of the day, the long travel hours had taken their toll. Sitting continuously for so many hours had placed considerable pressure on my already vulnerable lower back. After checking into the hotel, a long, lingering hot bath was exactly what I needed.
I went to bed early, hoping that rest would ease the stiffness and discomfort. Hubby, meanwhile, was still wide awake, trying to work out our revised itinerary. Our carefully planned route had changed again. Cambodia and Laos was no longer part of this journey.
But perhaps that is the nature of road travel. We plan the roads, the borders, the destinations and the hotels but ultimately, the journey has a way of deciding for us.
And tomorrow, we would simply follow where the road led next.
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