Wali Songo 05: Jakarta - The New York of Java...

"The mind is not a vessel to be filled but a fire to be kindled..." - Plutarch

(A shared enjoyment of Java coffee)

DAY 05: 12 Oct 2025 (Sunday)
Route: Cirebon - Jakarta
Hotel: Orchards Jayakarta Hotel, Jakarta

My head felt a little groggy when I woke up this morning. I moved slowly, careful not to upset my uneasy stomach, and settled for a light breakfast of salad and toast — hoping the queasiness would pass before we set off to visit the last of the nine Wali Songo, Sunan Gunung Jati.

Cirebon, a coastal city in West Java where the rhythm of the sea meets the whispers of history. Once a powerful sultanate, it was here that faith and culture intertwined, spreading Islam through the western lands of Java. The city still carries traces of its past — a blend of Javanese grace, Sundanese warmth, Chinese artistry, and deep Islamic devotion. Today, Cirebon is not just known for its intricate batik and mouth-watering seafood, but for the quiet dignity of its heritage - a place where every street, every breeze, seems to hum the legacy of Sunan Gunung Jati.

We visited the tomb of Syarif Hidayatullah bin Syarif Abdullah, better known as Sunan Gunung Jati (1448–1568). His resting place lies in Astana Gunung Jati, about six kilometres north of Cirebon — one of the most sacred and majestic pilgrimage sites among the Wali Songo. Built on the slopes of Gunung Jati, the complex seems to rise gently, symbolising his spiritual elevation.

The tomb is enclosed within nine gates, known as Lawang Sanga, each representing a stage of spiritual ascent. Only the royal family and caretakers may pass beyond the inner gates, while ordinary visitors stop at the fifth gate to offer prayers and recitations. We were fortunate that our group was met by Pak Awang, an official from the Gunung Jati Kraton, who kindly guided us into the private chamber that holds the tombs of Sunan Gunung Jati, his family, and his closest companions.

Inside, the atmosphere felt solemn yet deeply peaceful. The architecture revealed a beautiful fusion of Javanese, Chinese, and Islamic influences — ceramic tiles with intricate patterns, walls adorned with delicate Chinese porcelain, and graceful Arabic calligraphy that seemed to breathe remembrance and faith. Surrounding the main tomb are graves of royal figures from the Cirebon Sultanate, a reminder that Sunan Gunung Jati was not only a revered saint but also a wise ruler and scholar.

It was humbling to sit in front his tomb — before a man who once united faith and leadership, who spread Islam across West Java, and whose legacy endures through the spiritual and cultural life of Cirebon. The air felt sacred, filled with quiet reverence, as if every stone still whispered his teachings of devotion, wisdom, and peace.

We continued our journey, travelling about 222 kilometres toward Jakarta. Midway, we stopped for lunch at Rumah Makan Simpang Raya, a nasi Padang restaurant at the R&R km 101 along Jalan Cikopo–Palimanan. The rich aroma of rendang and spicy sambal brought back our appetite, and after the meal, we performed our prayers at the peaceful Masjid Martowidjoyo nearby.

Before reaching the capital, we made a brief detour to the Grand Outlet in Karawang, East Jakarta — Indonesia’s first international luxury outlet mall. Surrounded by greenery and open spaces, it offered a refreshing change of pace, with rows of designer stores and cosy cafés. We strolled leisurely through the area before settling at the food court, resting our tired legs and enjoying the cool afternoon air over a glass of teh tarik and a bowl of Indonesian ABC dessert.

We then continued our journey toward Jakarta, Indonesia’s bustling capital — a sprawling metropolis on the northwest coast of Java that stands as the nation’s economic, cultural, and political heart. It is a city of contrasts: gleaming skyscrapers rise beside colonial landmarks, affluence meets hardship, and vibrant nightlife thrives amid the chaos of heavy traffic and pollution.

By the time we arrived, night had fallen. The neon-lit skyline shimmered beautifully against the dark sky, welcoming us into the city. Dinner was at Warong Tekko, where we had ayam penyet and an assortment of side dishes. The food was delicious, but fatigue dulled my appetite.

We checked into the Orchards Jayakarta Hotel for the night. It was our final evening in Java — exhaustion lingered, but we still took some time to pack and reflect before turning in for some much-needed rest.