Wali Songo 01: Surabaya - The City of Heroes...

"Never wish life were easier, wish that you were better..." - Jim Rohn

(The entrance to the Monument of Heroes)

Day 01: 08 Oct 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: Kuala Lumpur – Surabaya
Flight: QZ 321 KUL 0910/SUB 1045 (Air Asia)
Hotel: Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya

Tonight, I tried to sleep early, but the excitement of our upcoming trip kept me wide awake. The alarm was set for 2:00 a.m., and when it rang, I woke up with a groggy head and heavy eyes. By 3:00 a.m., we were already at Masjid at-Tayyibin, joined by five others who would be traveling with us. Earlier, we had arranged for a rental van to take the seven of us to the airport in the quiet, still hours before dawn.

The streets were almost empty as our van cruised the highway. Despite the drowsiness, there was a sense of shared excitement among us - a quiet anticipation of the journey ahead.

When we finally reached the airport, the terminal was calm but alive with travelers catching early flights. As we waited for the rest to arrive, we wandered over to the Mamak Express stall, our steps heavy with sleep. A steaming cup of teh tarik and a shared plate of fragrant nasi lemak were just what we needed to shake off the morning drowsiness.

(The break of dawn at KLIA2)

(Having breakfast at Mamak Express)

We gathered for a briefing from Morza Travel Tour Leader. After checking in and dropping off our luggage, we went to the surau for Subuh prayers. It was still dark outside, but in our hearts, the day had already begun.

The 9.10 am Air Asia flight departed ahead than schedule. We had our inflight pre-ordered meal of nasi lemak in a jiffy amid the mild turbulance over Java Sea.

(Nasi Lemak Pak Nasser on board of Air Asia)

At 10.15 am local time we landed at Juanda Airport, Surabaya - the third busiest airport in Indonesia after Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta and Denpasar's Ngurah Rai. The airport is located approximately 12 km from downtown Surabaya. At the arrival hall we were greeted by Pak Ady, Morza Travel representative.

(The jovial Pak Ady)

As it was already noon, we went straight to Kedai Makan Sederhana for lunch - a popular local spot in Surabaya known for its nasi padang and an array of mouth-watering dishes. I treated myself to my favourite thick and sweet alpukat drink.

(Kedai Makan Sederhana)

(A spread of Nasi Padang dishes)

From the restaurant, we travelled about 4 km to visit the tomb of Raden Ahmad Rahmatullah, better known as Sunan Ampel (1401–1481). As the road was quite narrow, we took an angkut (local minivan) to get closer without having to walk far. The tomb stands beside the Ampel Mosque, built by Sunan Ampel in 1421 - one of the oldest mosques in East Java.

(A fleet of Angkot waiting for customers)

(Cramming into a small space)

The mosque and tomb complex blend Javanese and Arab architecture, with a multi-tiered tajug-style roof, teak pillars, and several gapura gates leading to a walled courtyard lined with bustling market stalls. As Asar prayer time approached, the tomb entrance was briefly closed, and some of us joined the jemaah for prayers before returning to recite doa at the tomb.

(Arriving at the Complex of Sunan Ampel)

(The gate is closed - will be open after prayers)

(Photo opportunity at one of the five Gapura Gates)

(Performing Asar prayers at Sunan Ampel Mosque)

(The beduk at the mosque)

Sunan Ampel founded the Ampel Denta Islamic school and taught future Wali Songo such as Sunan Bonang and Sunan Giri. He also introduced the moral principle of “Moh Limo” - ora moh main (no gambling), ora moh ngombe (no drinking alcohol), ora moh maling (no stealing), ora moh madat (no opium), and ora moh madon (no adultery).

(Visitors reciting the doa)

(The tomb of Sunan Ampel)

(Drinking water known to heal diseases)

Our next stop was the Mohammad Cheng Hoo Mosque, a beautiful symbol of harmony between Chinese and Islamic culture. Built in honour of Admiral Cheng Hoo (Zheng He), the great Chinese Muslim explorer, the mosque features pagoda-style roofs and is adorned in red, green, and yellow hues. Though modest in size, with a capacity of about 200 worshippers, it exudes a calm and graceful atmosphere - a peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Surabaya. Those who did not pray at Sunan Ample mosque, performed their jamak prayers here.

(The minaret is inspired by the Chinese pagoda)

(Vibrant colour of bright red, yellow and jade green)

(Cheng Hoo mural on the wall)

Visited Monkasel also known as the Submarine Monument. The museum consists primarily of one of Indonesia's first submarines, the Pasopati 410. The Russian Whiskey class submarine was built in Vladivostok in 1952 and purchased by Indonesia in 1962 and saw service in the campaign to force the Dutch out of Irian Jaya (New Guinea). The sub had never fired any of its torpedoes. It was only decommissioned in 1990. In 1995, the sub was converted into a museum.

(Monkasel - Monumen Kapal Selam, Surabaya)

(The Russian Whisky class submarine)

(Cut into 16 pieces and reassembled)

(Small openings between compartments)

(The torpedos were never fired)

Before leaving for dinner, we made a brief stop at the Surabaya Monument, famously featuring the shark and crocodile — the two creatures that symbolize the city. The striking white statue depicts a fierce battle between the shark (sura) and the crocodile (baya), from which Surabaya takes its name. Surrounded by trees and city bustle, the monument stands proudly as a reminder of Surabaya’s spirit of courage and resilience.

(The Surabaya Monument)

Surabaya is the capital city of East Java, Indonesia, and the country’s second-largest city after Jakarta. Known as the “City of Heroes” (Kota Pahlawan), it played a vital role in Indonesia’s struggle for independence, especially during the 1945 Battle of Surabaya. Today, Surabaya is a vibrant port city combining rich history with modern development. It features colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, modern malls, and cltural landmarks. The city is also a gateway to Mount Bromo and other East Java attractions.

Dinner was at Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa, where we enjoyed a hearty local meal before heading to our hotel. We checked into the Neo Gubeng Hotel in Surabaya, feeling tired and completely worn out after a long day. A quick shower was all it took before sleep came almost instantly.

(Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa)

(Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya)

(Spacious and cosy room)