Tracing The Footsteps of Wali Songo

"Education is what remains after one has forgotten what one has learned in school..." - Albert Einstein

My husband and I have always loved discovering new places, but this time our travels took on a much deeper meaning. We joined a group of fellow travelers on a six-day journey across Java to trace the history of the Wali Songo — the nine revered Muslim scholars whose dakwah shaped the spread of Islam in Indonesia.

Starting in Surabaya, we set out along the Pantai Utara Road toward Jakarta, stopping at the tombs of the wali along the way. Each visit felt like more than just sightseeing; it was a spiritual reminder of faith, history, and the sacrifices made centuries ago. Each tomb carrying not just history, but a quiet presence that stirred something within the heart.

It was more than just a trip. At every stop, between the prayers, the stories, and the shared silences, I felt a deep reminder of faith, humility, and the legacy of those who came before us. The long drives gave us time to reflect, while the companionship of others made the journey even more memorable.

Each visit to the tombs was physically and mentally challenging - a journey that called for stamina, patience and perseverance. It humbled you, inside and out.

The 6-day Jejak Wali Songo itinerary:
(08 - 13 October 2025)
Day 01: KL - Surabaya
Day 02: Surabaya – Gresik - Tuban
Day 03: Tuban - Kudus – Demak - Semarang
Day 04: Semarang - Cirebon
Day 05: Cirebon - Jakarta
Day 06: Jakarta - KL

Java is not foreign to me. This recent journey was, in fact, my fourth visit to Indonesia’s most populous island. My first encounter with Java was in 2002, when I accompanied my husband on his work assignment and spent a short but memorable weekend in Jakarta. Five years later, in 2007, I returned - this time with my son, his wife Ella, and Ella’s mother - for a shopping getaway in Jakarta and Bandung. It was also a sweet honeymoon treat for the newlyweds. Then in 2008, my husband and I joined the BNM Puspanita group for a tour of Central Java, exploring the royal cities of Surakarta and Yogyakarta, and standing in awe before the timeless beauty of Borobudur.

This fourth trip, however, felt different - deeper and more meaningful.

Wali Songo 01: Surabaya - Cities of Heroes

"Never wish life were easier, wish that you were better..." - Jim Rohn

(All set to hit the road)

Day 01: 08 Oct 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: Kuala Lumpur – Surabaya
Flight: QZ 321 KUL 0910/SUB 1045 (Air Asia)
Hotel: Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya

Tonight, I tried to sleep early, but the excitement of our upcoming trip kept me wide awake. The alarm was set for 2:00 a.m., and when it rang, I woke up with a groggy head and heavy eyes. By 3:00 a.m., we were already at Masjid at-Tayyibin, joined by five others who would be traveling with us. Earlier, we had arranged for a rental van to take the seven of us to the airport in the quiet, still hours before dawn.

The streets were almost empty as our van cruised the highway. Despite the drowsiness, there was a sense of shared excitement among us - a quiet anticipation of the journey ahead.

When we finally reached the airport, the terminal was calm but alive with travelers catching early flights. As we waited for the rest to arrive, we wandered over to the Mamak Express stall, our steps heavy with sleep. A steaming cup of teh tarik and a shared plate of fragrant nasi lemak were just what we needed to shake off the morning drowsiness.

We gathered for a briefing from Morza Travel Tour Leader. After checking in and dropping off our luggage, we went to the surau for Subuh prayers. It was still dark outside, but in our hearts, the day had already begun.

The 9.10 am Air Asia flight departed ahead than schedule. We had our inflight pre-ordered meal of nasi lemak in a jiffy amid the mild turbulance over Java Sea.

At 10.15 am local time we landed at Juanda Airport, the third busiest airport in Indonesia after Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta and Denpasar's Ngurah Rai. The airport is located approximately 12 km from downtown Surabaya. At the arrival hall we were greeted by Pak Adi, Morza Travel representative.

As it was already noon, we went straight to Kedai Makan Sederhana for lunch - a popular local spot in Surabaya known for its nasi padang and an array of mouth-watering dishes. I treated myself to my favourite thick and sweet alpukat drink.

From the restaurant, we travelled about 4 km to visit the tomb of Raden Ahmad Rahmatullah, better known as Sunan Ampel (1401–1481). As the road was quite narrow, we took an angkut (local minivan) to get closer without having to walk far. The tomb stands beside the Ampel Mosque, built by Sunan Ampel in 1421 — one of the oldest mosques in East Java.

The mosque and tomb complex blend Javanese and Arab architecture, with a multi-tiered tajug-style roof, teak pillars, and several gapura gates leading to a walled courtyard lined with bustling market stalls. As Asar prayer time approached, the tomb entrance was briefly closed, and some of us joined the jemaah for prayers before returning to recite doa at the tomb.

Sunan Ampel founded the Ampel Denta Islamic school and taught future Wali Songo such as Sunan Bonang and Sunan Giri. He also introduced the moral principle of “Moh Limo” - ora moh main (no gambling), ora moh ngombe (no drinking alcohol), ora moh maling (no stealing), ora moh madat (no opium), and ora moh madon (no adultery).

Our next stop was the Mohammad Cheng Hoo Mosque, a beautiful symbol of harmony between Chinese and Islamic culture. Built in honour of Admiral Cheng Hoo (Zheng He), the great Chinese Muslim explorer, the mosque features pagoda-style roofs and is adorned in red, green, and yellow hues. Though modest in size, with a capacity of about 200 to 300 worshippers, it exudes a calm and graceful atmosphere — a peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Surabaya.Those who did not pray at Sunan Ample mosque, performed their jamak prayers here

Visited Monkasel also known as the Submarine Monument. The museum consists primarily of one of Indonesia's first submarines, the Pasopati 410. The Russian Whiskey class submarine was built in Vladivostok in 1952 and purchased by Indonesia in 1962 and saw service in the campaign to force the Dutch out of Irian Jaya (New Guinea). The sub had never fired any of its torpedoes. It was only decommissioned in 1990. In 1995, the sub was converted into a museum. .

Before leaving for dinner, we made a brief stop at the Surabaya Monument, famously featuring the shark and crocodile — the two creatures that symbolize the city. The striking white statue depicts a fierce battle between the shark (sura) and the crocodile (baya), from which Surabaya takes its name. Surrounded by trees and city bustle, the monument stands proudly as a reminder of Surabaya’s spirit of courage and resilience.

Surabaya is the capital city of East Java, Indonesia, and the country’s second-largest city after Jakarta. Known as the “City of Heroes” (Kota Pahlawan), it played a vital role in Indonesia’s struggle for independence, especially during the 1945 Battle of Surabaya. Today, Surabaya is a vibrant port city combining rich history with modern development. It features colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, modern malls, and cltural landmarks. The city is also a gateway to Mount Bromo and other East Java attractions.

Dinner was at Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa, where we enjoyed a hearty local meal before heading to our hotel. We checked into the Neo Gubeng Hotel in Surabaya, feeling tired and completely worn out after a long day. A quick shower was all it took before sleep came almost instantly.

Wali Songo 02: Tuban - The City of Thousand Caves...

"You don't have to see the whole staircase, just take the first step..." - Martin Luther King Jr.

Day 02: 09 Oct 2025 (Thursday)
Route: Surabaya - Gresik - Tuban
Hotel: Fave Hotel, Tuban

(Diving into the spiritual depth of Wali Songo)

The 4.00 a.m. alarm rang softly in the stillness of dawn, calling us to rise for Subuh prayers. The world outside was hushed; even the air felt sacred. After prayer, I sat quietly with the Quran, reading a few verses that filled the heart with calm. It was a peaceful beginning — a moment of still reflection before another full day on our spiritual trail through Java.

By sunrise, the group gathered for breakfast. A plate of fluffy omelettes and toast, a bowl of warm porridge, and sweet pastries awaited us. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee — though just one simple blend — felt comforting. After checking out of the hotel, we boarded the bus, our spirits light, ready to continue the Wali Songo journey.

Our path led us toward Gresik, an ancient port town northwest of Surabaya. Long ago, traders from China, Arabia, and India docked here, bringing not only goods but also the first whispers of Islam to Java. Today, Gresik remains a place where faith and history breathe together — a town where industry meets devotion.

From the bus park, we took two small angkot vans up the winding road toward Gunung Giri, where Sunan Giri (1442–1506) rests. The climb up the steep steps tested our strength, yet every step felt like a prayer. Around us, pilgrims moved quietly — some elderly, some young — their faces serene, their whispers of doa carried by the wind. When we finally reached the tomb, the air felt heavy with reverence.

Sunan Giri, also known as Raden Paku, was not only a scholar but also a teacher whose influence reached far beyond Java — to Lombok, Makassar, and the Maluku Islands. He founded the Giri Islamic School, where faith, leadership, and compassion flourished. I felt humbled standing there, imagining the light of his teachings still glowing centuries later.

A short drive away stood the Tomb of Sunan Gresik (1350–1419), known also as Maulana Malik Ibrahim. The site was peaceful, shaded by old trees and surrounded by gentle quiet. His marble gravestone, carved in the elegant style of Gujarat, reminded us of his origins — a man who came from distant Kashan, bringing not only trade but also the message of Islam through kindness, farming, and service to the people.

Nearby lay the Tomb of Temenggong Poesponegoro, the first Regent of Gresik. The low entrance forced every visitor to bow, a symbolic gesture of humility before the greats who came before.

By noon, hunger led us to Samorasso Nasi Padang. As plates of spicy rendang, sambal, and vegetables filled the table, the familiar flavours of Padang cuisine warmed our spirits. Hot jasmine tea soothed the weariness of travel.

We continued along the Pantura Road, which threads through Java’s northern coast. Along the way, we stopped at Masjid Akbar Moed’har Arifin, a grand mosque in Sekapuk. With its elegant white domes and open courtyards, it serves not only as a house of worship but also a resting place for travellers like us. Standing there, I felt gratitude — for the journey, for safety, for faith that connects us all.

In Paciran Village, Lamongan, we visited the Tomb of Sunan Drajat (1470–1522). His resting place, built on seven terraces, symbolizes the steps toward spiritual purity. A cool breeze drifted through the carved wooden gates as pilgrims whispered their prayers. Nearby, the museum displayed artefacts and musical instruments once used by the saint — reminders of how he spread Islam not through force, but through compassion, art, and music.

By late afternoon, the road brought us to Tuban, the “City of a Thousand Caves.” This coastal town has long been a cradle of Islam in Java — its sands touched by history and faith. Behind the Great Mosque of Tuban lies the Tomb of Sunan Bonang (1465–1525). From the bus terminal, we rode rickshaws through narrow streets to reach it.

Sunan Bonang, the son of Sunan Ampel, was a scholar, artist, and mystic who used gamelan melodies to spread the message of Islam. His tomb, adorned with carved gates and floral motifs, radiated quiet dignity. Nearby stood the “Qur’an Well,” believed to carry blessings. I dipped my hand into the cool water, feeling a deep calm — a reminder that knowledge and devotion, like water, flow endlessly through time.

As night fell, we had dinner at Kayu Manis Resto, beside our hotel. The dishes — pais ikan terubuk, tomyam, satay, mee goreng — tasted even better after a day of reflection and walking.

We checked into the Fave Hotel Tuban for the night — a bright, modern place close to the beach. As I lay down, I felt both weary and grateful — each day on this journey revealing not just the history of Java, but also the quiet strength of faith that continues to live within its people.

Wali Songo 03: Semarang - The Venice of Java...

"The beautiful thing about learning is that nobody can take it away from you..." - B.B. King

(An exhausting but fun road trip from Tuban to Semarang)

Day 03: 10 Oct 2025 (Friday)
Route: Tuban - Kudus - Semarang
Hotel: Fave Hotel, Semarang

We had omelettes and Indonesian lontong for breakfast, a simple yet satisfying start to the day. By 7.30 am, we checked out and began our onward journey to Kudus.

The morning drive took us along the Pantura coastal road, where the glistening beaches of the Java Sea stretched endlessly beside us, their gentle waves catching the morning light. Somewhere between the breeze and the sea, we passed Tongkat Sunan Bonang, beside the Persujudan Sunan Bonang—a revered site in Lasem, once an important centre for the spread of Islam in Java. The sacred relic stands within an orange-painted, cage-like structure on a raised concrete base, guarding a large wooden pole believed to be the mast of Sunan Bonang’s ship, a silent witness to his voyage and spiritual legacy.

We travelled about 154 km, taking a smaller shortcut route to visit the Tomb of Raden Umar Said, better known as Sunan Muria (1475–1551). Sunan Muria was the son of Sunan Kalijaga. He spread Islam in the Gunung Muria district, north coast of Jepara. Sunan Muria focused on rural communities, teaching Islam through farming life and folk songs.

His tomb lies in Colo Village, Kudus Regency, nestled on the slopes of Mount Muria at an altitude of around 1,600 metres. It is said to be the most remote and challenging of all the Wali Songo tombs.

For the fit and determined, the pilgrimage involves a walk of more than 500 steps, a climb of about a kilometre to reach the summit. For others, like most of us in the group, motorcycle taxis (ojek) offer an alternative. The round-trip ride, though thrilling, was at times nerve-racking, weaving along narrow, steep, and winding mountain roads. Yet, every turn revealed breathtaking scenery - the lush greenery, the scent of the highland air, and the serene charm of the Javanese countryside.

At the top, the tomb of Sunan Muria rests peacefully amidst cool mountain breezes and panoramic views of nature’s splendour. As it was a Friday, we were blessed with the rare opportunity to enter the inner chamber of the shrine and offer our doa, a deeply humbling and spiritual moment that lingered in silence and reverence.

After visiting Makam Sunan Muria, we stopped for lunch at a small local eatery called M’bok Tin, nestled in the cool air of the Muria highlands. Our meal was a comforting spread of tilapia masak kicap, crispy fried chicken, and ribs soup, each dish rich with homely flavours and the warmth of Javanese hospitality. Before leaving, we couldn’t resist buying a few local herbal drinks - gula kabung with ginger and gula kabung with turmeric - bottled blends said to be both soothing and invigorating. True to the online reviews, M’bok Tin lived up to its praise - delicious food, friendly smiles, and the tranquil charm of the highlands made it a memorable stop on our journey.

We descended from the cool highlands toward Kudus, a historic town once famed as a centre of Islamic learning and now known for its fragrant kretek clove industry. As the afternoon light softened, we rode ojek motorcycles through the lively streets to the Menara Kudus Mosque, where we performed our jamak prayers. Built in 1549 by Sunan Kudus, the mosque stands as one of Java’s oldest, a graceful blend of Islamic, Javanese, and Hindu-Buddhist architecture -  red-brick walls, temple-like gates, and a 17-metre minaret that holds a great beduk drum in place of a call to prayer tower.

After prayers, we visited the Tomb of Ja’far Shadiq, or Sunan Kudus (1500–1550), within the Masjid Al-Aqsa Manarat Kudus complex. The shrine, carved in fine woodwork beneath a tiered Javanese roof, exuded calm and reverence. Around it lay the graves of his followers and family, while pilgrims quietly offered prayers and recited verses. In the still air of Kudus, Sunan Kudus’s legacy lives on - a reminder of faith, tolerance, and harmony among the many cultures of Java.

From Kudus, we continued our journey to Demak, a historic town often regarded as the cradle of Islam in Java. Once the heart of the Demak Sultanate, the first Islamic kingdom on the island, Demak remains rich in faith and heritage.

Our first stop was the Tomb of Raden Said, better known as Sunan Kalijaga (1450–1513), located in Kadilangu Village, about 3 km southeast of the Great Mosque of Demak. The tomb lies within a beautifully maintained complex, surrounded by the resting places of his descendants and other revered figures. The air was serene, filled with quiet devotion as pilgrims came to offer prayers. Sunan Kalijaga, known for his wisdom and deep understanding of local culture, spread Islam through wayang kulit (shadow puppetry), traditional art, and folklore—bridging faith with the soul of Javanese tradition.

We later visited the Great Mosque of Demak, believed to have been founded by the Wali Songo in the 15th century. Its three-tiered pyramidal roof and four grand teak pillars reflect classic Javanese architecture, symbolizing simplicity and strength. Once the spiritual and political center of the Demak Sultanate, the mosque today remains a living symbol of unity, faith, and the enduring legacy of early Islam in Java. We performed our jamak prayers here.

From Demak, we travelled about 35 km to Semarang, with a dinner stop at Kedai Makan Sambel Sawah in Grogol. The restaurant, whose name means “chili sauce of the rice field,” captures the warmth of traditional Javanese countryside dining, surrounded by a rustic, rice-paddy ambience. Their specialties include fried chicken, fish, duck, and seafood — all served with a variety of fiery sambals. Ours were unforgettably hot!

After dinner, we continued our journey towards Semarang. Exhaustion finally caught up with me, I dozed off in the bus, lulled by the rhythm of the road. We arrived late at night and checked into the Fave Hotel, grateful for a warm shower and a well-deserved rest.