Tracing The Footsteps of Wali Songo

"Education is what remains after one has forgotten what one has learned in school..." - Albert Einstein

(The nine Wali Songo)

My husband and I have always loved discovering new places, but this time our travels took on a much deeper meaning. We joined a group of fellow travelers on a six-day journey across Java to trace the history of the Wali Songo — the nine revered Muslim scholars whose dakwah shaped the spread of Islam in Indonesia.

Starting in Surabaya, we set out along the Pantai Utara Road toward Jakarta, stopping at the tombs of the wali along the way. Each visit felt like more than just sightseeing; it was a spiritual reminder of faith, history, and the sacrifices made centuries ago. Each tomb carrying not just history, but a quiet presence that stirred something within the heart.

It was more than just a trip. At every stop, between the prayers, the stories, and the shared silences, I felt a deep reminder of faith, humility, and the legacy of those who came before us. The long drives gave us time to reflect, while the companionship of others made the journey even more memorable.

Each visit to the tombs was physically and mentally challenging - a journey that called for stamina, patience and perseverance. It humbled you, inside and out.

(Jejak Wali Songo routing)

The 6-day Jejak Wali Songo itinerary:
(08 - 13 October 2025)
Day 01: KL - Surabaya
Day 02: Surabaya – Gresik - Tuban
Day 03: Tuban - Kudus – Demak - Semarang
Day 04: Semarang - Cirebon
Day 05: Cirebon - Jakarta
Day 06: Jakarta - KL

Java is not foreign to me. This recent journey was, in fact, my fourth visit to Indonesia’s most populous island. My first encounter with Java was in 2002, when I accompanied my husband on his work assignment and spent a short but memorable weekend in Jakarta. Five years later, in 2007, I returned - this time with my son, his wife Ella, and Ella’s mother - for a shopping getaway in Jakarta and Bandung. It was also a sweet honeymoon treat for the newlyweds. Then in 2008, my husband and I joined the BNM Puspanita group for a tour of Central Java, exploring the royal cities of Surakarta and Yogyakarta, and standing in awe before the timeless beauty of Borobudur.

This fourth trip, however, felt different - deeper and more meaningful.

Wali Songo 01: Surabaya - The City of Heroes...

"Never wish life were easier, wish that you were better..." - Jim Rohn

(The entrance to the Monument of Heroes)

Day 01: 08 Oct 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: Kuala Lumpur – Surabaya
Flight: QZ 321 KUL 0910/SUB 1045 (Air Asia)
Hotel: Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya

Tonight, I tried to sleep early, but the excitement of our upcoming trip kept me wide awake. The alarm was set for 2:00 a.m., and when it rang, I woke up with a groggy head and heavy eyes. By 3:00 a.m., we were already at Masjid at-Tayyibin, joined by five others who would be traveling with us. Earlier, we had arranged for a rental van to take the seven of us to the airport in the quiet, still hours before dawn.

The streets were almost empty as our van cruised the highway. Despite the drowsiness, there was a sense of shared excitement among us - a quiet anticipation of the journey ahead.

When we finally reached the airport, the terminal was calm but alive with travelers catching early flights. As we waited for the rest to arrive, we wandered over to the Mamak Express stall, our steps heavy with sleep. A steaming cup of teh tarik and a shared plate of fragrant nasi lemak were just what we needed to shake off the morning drowsiness.

(The break of dawn at KLIA2)

(Having breakfast at Mamak Express)

We gathered for a briefing from Morza Travel Tour Leader. After checking in and dropping off our luggage, we went to the surau for Subuh prayers. It was still dark outside, but in our hearts, the day had already begun.

The 9.10 am Air Asia flight departed ahead than schedule. We had our inflight pre-ordered meal of nasi lemak in a jiffy amid the mild turbulance over Java Sea.

(Nasi Lemak Pak Nasser on board of Air Asia)

At 10.15 am local time we landed at Juanda Airport, Surabaya - the third busiest airport in Indonesia after Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta and Denpasar's Ngurah Rai. The airport is located approximately 12 km from downtown Surabaya. At the arrival hall we were greeted by Pak Ady, Morza Travel representative.

(The jovial Pak Ady)

As it was already noon, we went straight to Kedai Makan Sederhana for lunch - a popular local spot in Surabaya known for its nasi padang and an array of mouth-watering dishes. I treated myself to my favourite thick and sweet alpukat drink.

(Kedai Makan Sederhana)

(A spread of Nasi Padang dishes)

From the restaurant, we travelled about 4 km to visit the tomb of Raden Ahmad Rahmatullah, better known as Sunan Ampel (1401–1481). As the road was quite narrow, we took an angkut (local minivan) to get closer without having to walk far. The tomb stands beside the Ampel Mosque, built by Sunan Ampel in 1421 - one of the oldest mosques in East Java.

(A fleet of Angkot waiting for customers)

(Cramming into a small space)

The mosque and tomb complex blend Javanese and Arab architecture, with a multi-tiered tajug-style roof, teak pillars, and several gapura gates leading to a walled courtyard lined with bustling market stalls. As Asar prayer time approached, the tomb entrance was briefly closed, and some of us joined the jemaah for prayers before returning to recite doa at the tomb.

(Arriving at the Complex of Sunan Ampel)

(The gate is closed - will be open after prayers)

(Photo opportunity at one of the five Gapura Gates)

(Performing Asar prayers at Sunan Ampel Mosque)

(The beduk at the mosque)

Sunan Ampel founded the Ampel Denta Islamic school and taught future Wali Songo such as Sunan Bonang and Sunan Giri. He also introduced the moral principle of “Moh Limo” - ora moh main (no gambling), ora moh ngombe (no drinking alcohol), ora moh maling (no stealing), ora moh madat (no opium), and ora moh madon (no adultery).

(Visitors reciting the doa)

(The tomb of Sunan Ampel)

(Drinking water known to heal diseases)

Our next stop was the Mohammad Cheng Hoo Mosque, a beautiful symbol of harmony between Chinese and Islamic culture. Built in honour of Admiral Cheng Hoo (Zheng He), the great Chinese Muslim explorer, the mosque features pagoda-style roofs and is adorned in red, green, and yellow hues. Though modest in size, with a capacity of about 200 worshippers, it exudes a calm and graceful atmosphere - a peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Surabaya. Those who did not pray at Sunan Ample mosque, performed their jamak prayers here.

(The minaret is inspired by the Chinese pagoda)

(Vibrant colour of bright red, yellow and jade green)

(Cheng Hoo mural on the wall)

Visited Monkasel also known as the Submarine Monument. The museum consists primarily of one of Indonesia's first submarines, the Pasopati 410. The Russian Whiskey class submarine was built in Vladivostok in 1952 and purchased by Indonesia in 1962 and saw service in the campaign to force the Dutch out of Irian Jaya (New Guinea). The sub had never fired any of its torpedoes. It was only decommissioned in 1990. In 1995, the sub was converted into a museum.

(Monkasel - Monumen Kapal Selam, Surabaya)

(The Russian Whisky class submarine)

(Cut into 16 pieces and reassembled)

(Small openings between compartments)

(The torpedos were never fired)

Before leaving for dinner, we made a brief stop at the Surabaya Monument, famously featuring the shark and crocodile — the two creatures that symbolize the city. The striking white statue depicts a fierce battle between the shark (sura) and the crocodile (baya), from which Surabaya takes its name. Surrounded by trees and city bustle, the monument stands proudly as a reminder of Surabaya’s spirit of courage and resilience.

(The Surabaya Monument)

Surabaya is the capital city of East Java, Indonesia, and the country’s second-largest city after Jakarta. Known as the “City of Heroes” (Kota Pahlawan), it played a vital role in Indonesia’s struggle for independence, especially during the 1945 Battle of Surabaya. Today, Surabaya is a vibrant port city combining rich history with modern development. It features colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, modern malls, and cltural landmarks. The city is also a gateway to Mount Bromo and other East Java attractions.

Dinner was at Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa, where we enjoyed a hearty local meal before heading to our hotel. We checked into the Neo Gubeng Hotel in Surabaya, feeling tired and completely worn out after a long day. A quick shower was all it took before sleep came almost instantly.

(Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa)

(Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya)

(Spacious and cosy room)

Wali Songo 02: Tuban - The Land of Ronggolawe Majapahit...

"You don't have to see the whole staircase, just take the first step..." - Martin Luther King Jr.

(Diving into the spiritual depth of Java history)

Day 02: 09 Oct 2025 (Thursday)
Route: Surabaya - Gresik - Tuban
Hotel: Fave Hotel, Tuban

The 4.00 a.m. alarm rang softly in the stillness of dawn, calling us to rise for Subuh prayers. After prayer, I sat quietly with the Quran, reading a few verses that filled the heart with calm. It was a peaceful beginning - a moment of still reflection before another full day on our spiritual trail through Java.

By sunrise, the group gathered for breakfast. A plate of fluffy omelettes and toast, a bowl of warm porridge, and sweet pastries awaited us. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee - though just one simple blend - felt comforting. After checking out of the hotel, we boarded the bus, our spirits light, ready to continue the Wali Songo journey.

(Feeling refreshed early in the morning)

(A heavy breakfast before the journey)

Our path led us toward Gresik, an ancient port town northwest of Surabaya. Long ago, traders from China, Arabia, and India docked here, bringing not only goods but also the first whispers of Islam to Java. Today, Gresik remains a place where faith and history breathe together - a town where industry meets devotion.

From the bus park, we took two small angkot vans up the winding road toward Gunung Giri, where Sunan Giri (1442–1506) rests. The climb up the steep steps tested our strength, yet every step felt like a prayer. Around us, visitors moved quietly - some elderly, some young -  their faces serene, their whispers of doa carried by the wind. When we finally reached the tomb, the air felt heavy with reverence.

(104 steps to reach the top)

(Another couple of stairs to reach the tomb)

(One for the album)

Sunan Giri, also known as Raden Paku, was not only a scholar but also a teacher whose influence reached far beyond Java — to Lombok, Makassar, and the Maluku Islands. He founded the Giri Islamic School, where faith, leadership, and compassion flourished. I felt humbled standing there, imagining the light of his teachings still glowing centuries later.

(The tomb of Sunan Giri)

(A single tomb within the curtained enclosure)

A short drive away stood the Tomb of Sunan Gresik (1350–1419), known also as Maulana Malik Ibrahim. The site was peaceful, shaded by old trees and surrounded by gentle quiet. His marble gravestone, carved in the elegant style of Gujarat, reminded us of his origins - a man who came from distant Kashan, bringing not only trade but also the message of Islam through kindness, farming, and service to the people.

(The Complex of Sunan Gresik)

(The tomb of Sunan Gresik)

Nearby lay the Tomb of Temenggong Poesponegoro, the first Regent of Gresik. The low entrance forced every visitor to bow, a symbolic gesture of humility before the greats who came before.

(The tomb of Temenggong Poesponegoro)

(A slab of stone with old Java writings)

By noon, hunger led us to Samorasso Nasi Padang. As plates of spicy rendang, sambal, and vegetables filled the table, the familiar flavours of Padang cuisine warmed our spirits. Hot jasmine tea soothed the weariness of travel.

(Kedai Makan Samorasso - Nasi Padang)  

(Crispy fried ayam kampung)

(The restaurant motto on the wall)

We continued along the Pantura Road, which threads through Java’s northern coast. Along the way, we stopped at Masjid Akbar Moed’har Arifin, a grand mosque in Desa Sekapuk. With its elegant blue domes and open courtyards, it serves not only as a house of worship but also a resting place for travellers like us. Standing there, I felt gratitude - for the journey, for safety, for faith that connects us all.

(Masjid Akbar Moed'har Arifin in Desa Sekapuk)

(Reflections of the colourful dome on the floor)

(Beautiful garden surrounding the mosque)

In Paciran Village, Lamongan, we visited the Tomb of Sunan Drajat (1470–1522). His resting place, built on seven terraces, symbolizes the steps toward spiritual purity. A cool breeze drifted through the carved wooden gates as visitors whispered their prayers. Nearby, the museum displayed artefacts and musical instruments once used by the wali -  reminders of how he spread Islam not through force, but through compassion, art, and music.

(The signage leading to the tomb)

(A long climb to the top)

(The main door to the inner chamber)

(Excerpts from Sunan Drajat 'Catur Piwulang')

(Spacious hall around the tomb)

(Visitors reciting the doa)

(The Museum of Sunan Drajat)

(The old beduk in the museum)

(Historical artefacts on display)

By late afternoon, the road brought us to Tuban, the “City of a Thousand Caves.” This coastal town has long been a cradle of Islam in Java - its sands touched by history and faith. Behind the Great Mosque of Tuban lies the Tomb of Sunan Bonang (1465–1525). From the bus terminal, we rode on the rickshaws through narrow streets to reach the Sunan Bonang Complex.

(The rickshaw seat is too small for two adults)

(A convoy of rickshaws on the road)

Sunan Bonang, the son of Sunan Ampel, was a scholar, artist, and mystic who used gamelan melodies to spread the message of Islam. His tomb, adorned with carved gates and floral motifs, radiated quiet dignity. Nearby stood the “Qur’an Well,” believed to carry blessings. I dipped my hand into the cool water, feeling a deep calm - a reminder that knowledge and devotion, like water, flow endlessly through time.

(The entrance to Sunan Bonang Complex)

(Another Gapura gate)

(The entrance to the private chamber)

(The tomb of Sunan Bonang)

(Large jars to hold water from Sunan Bonang well)

(Drinking water from the Quran Well)

(The Tuban Grand Mosque, separated by a wall)

(A beautiful night view of Masjid Agung Tuban)

(Taking the beca back to Tuban Bus Terminal)

As night fell, we had dinner at Kayu Manis Resto, beside our hotel in Tuban. The dishes - crispy talapia, pais ikan terubuk, tomyam, satay, mee goreng - tasted even better after a day of reflection and walking.

(Kayu Manis Restaurant)

(Crispy fried talapia with sambal)

We checked into the Fave Hotel Tuban for the night - a bright, modern place close to the beach. As I lay down, I felt both weary and grateful - each day on this journey revealing not just the history of Java, but also the quiet strength of faith that continues to live within its people.

(The Fave Hotel, Tuban)

(Do Not Disturb)