"However difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at..." - Stephen Hawking
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| (With the locals at Makam Nabi Seth) |
Day 05: 08 October 2024 (Tuesday)
Route: MAZAR-E SHARIF/BALKH
Hotel: Samir Walid Guesthouse Mazar Sharif
Breakfast was specially served for our small group in one of the hotel rooms at the upper level.
By 8:00 am we boarded a van and stopped at Information and Culture Centre to obtain our tourist travel permit. We waited for almost an hour for the permit to be approved.
Today we travelled by van to the city of Balkh about 20 km from Mazar-e Sharif. Balkh is a hub of Zoroastrianism and Buddhism, the ancient city was also known to the Persian as Zariaspa and to the Greeks as Bactra, as such, it was famously known as the capital of Bactria. The Italian explorer and writer Marco Polo described Balkh as "a noble city and a great seat of learning" prior to the Mongol conquests.
Most of the town now consists of ruined buildings, situated some 12 km from the right bank of the seasonally flowing Balkh River, at an elevation of about 365 m. While it is one of Afghanistan's ethnically diverse settlements. Tajiks account for a substantial portion of Balkh's populace and have continuously inhabited the site for millennia. The main language of the town is Dari, which is spoken by a significant majority.
The Ancient City tour of Balkh started with a visit to Jalaluddin Balki Culture Park, which is a large park. The Rumi Cultural Park was supposed to be built here; However, its work was started and opened several times, but it was never finished. Recently, the municipality wanted to build the Mazar-e-Sharif peddlers' market here, but it was not done and now it is in a very bad condition
Haji Piyada Mosque or Noh Gonbad Mosque or the Mosque of Nine Cupolas is a historic building in Balkh. It is thought to be the oldest and most important early Islamic-era building in Afghanistan. It stands out as an early example of an innovative style for mosques, influenced by pre-existing Irano-Sassanid patterns. The remaining, rare, stucco decorations are believed to be in early Abbasid or Samanid styles. With all nine domes collapsed, the three standing columns and two arches constitute the architectural and artistic core of the site. Badly damaged by time, the risk of structural failure of the arches in the event of an earthquake is extremely high.
Bal-a Hisar grave is a blue grave of a sufi located on the ancient wall of Balkh. The original Sufis wore simple wool cloaks who represents the mystical dimension of Islam. Sufism may be best described as Islamic mysticism or asceticism, which through belief and practice helps Muslims attain nearness to Allah.
Next we went to pay respect, reverence and homage to Nabi Seth. Seth, was the son of Adam and Eve and a prophet and messenger of Allah. His name means "gift," as he was given to Adam and Hawa as a replacement for their deceased son, Habil. Habil was killed by his brother Qabil out of jealousy and resentment.
We visited the ruins of the house of Jalaluddin Rumi, one of the world's most famous mystics and poets. Rumi was born in the Balkh complex in 1207. The learning site, which comprised a mosque, monastery and madrasa for hundreds of disciples, belonged to his father, the theologian Bahauddin Walad, known by Afghans as Sultan Al-Ulema. Afghan authorities is in the process to rebuild this 13th-century Islamic teaching complex.
The Green Mosque, or Masjid Sabz, or the Mosque of Khawaja Abu Nasr Parsa is a mosque in the city of Balkh. It contains the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa. The mosque's name is derived from the kashi tiles on the walls of the mosque, which are coloured turquoise, known locally as Turkish Green. The mosque suffered severe damage during the Soviet-Afghan War, and it fell into massive disrepair. In 2022, an explosion inside the mosque caused the destruction of some parts of the mosque as well.
Lunch was at a local restaurant. We had Kabuli mutton pillaf with chicken shasliks. In most eateries in Afghanistan, the ladies and men were seated separately. The ladies or those with family were seated in a curtained room and the men can have their meals outside.
After lunch, we climbed steep slope to visit a fort on top of the ancient wall. Historical accounts from the 10th century AD indicate that the city was ringed with earthen walls, with six gates, within which was a fine citadel and a mosque. Small sections of this wall still remains. From the top traditional Afghan houses could be seen in the rural areas. They are made of mud, stone, and wood, which provide a comfortable living space in harsh weather but have low resistance to seismic hazards.
Before we drove back to mazar-e Sherif we had a brief walking tour at the local bazaar. We did not buy anything as communication with the locals was quite a challenge.
Drove back to Mazar-e Sherif and visited the
Blue Mosque. The Afghans belief that the Shrine of Saidina Ali is located here. The Blue Mosque has been described as an oasis for peace, and it really does seem like it, considering the thousands of white doves surrounding the mosque. The doves flock on the trees, the roof, and the sidewalks. Legend has it the mosque is so sacred that any dove with a speck of color on its feathers will instantly become pure white after entering the mosque’s vicinity.
Route: MAZAR-E SHARIF/BALKH
Hotel: Samir Walid Guesthouse Mazar Sharif
Breakfast was specially served for our small group in one of the hotel rooms at the upper level.
By 8:00 am we boarded a van and stopped at Information and Culture Centre to obtain our tourist travel permit. We waited for almost an hour for the permit to be approved.
Today we travelled by van to the city of Balkh about 20 km from Mazar-e Sharif. Balkh is a hub of Zoroastrianism and Buddhism, the ancient city was also known to the Persian as Zariaspa and to the Greeks as Bactra, as such, it was famously known as the capital of Bactria. The Italian explorer and writer Marco Polo described Balkh as "a noble city and a great seat of learning" prior to the Mongol conquests.
Most of the town now consists of ruined buildings, situated some 12 km from the right bank of the seasonally flowing Balkh River, at an elevation of about 365 m. While it is one of Afghanistan's ethnically diverse settlements. Tajiks account for a substantial portion of Balkh's populace and have continuously inhabited the site for millennia. The main language of the town is Dari, which is spoken by a significant majority.
The Ancient City tour of Balkh started with a visit to Jalaluddin Balki Culture Park, which is a large park. The Rumi Cultural Park was supposed to be built here; However, its work was started and opened several times, but it was never finished. Recently, the municipality wanted to build the Mazar-e-Sharif peddlers' market here, but it was not done and now it is in a very bad condition
Haji Piyada Mosque or Noh Gonbad Mosque or the Mosque of Nine Cupolas is a historic building in Balkh. It is thought to be the oldest and most important early Islamic-era building in Afghanistan. It stands out as an early example of an innovative style for mosques, influenced by pre-existing Irano-Sassanid patterns. The remaining, rare, stucco decorations are believed to be in early Abbasid or Samanid styles. With all nine domes collapsed, the three standing columns and two arches constitute the architectural and artistic core of the site. Badly damaged by time, the risk of structural failure of the arches in the event of an earthquake is extremely high.
Bal-a Hisar grave is a blue grave of a sufi located on the ancient wall of Balkh. The original Sufis wore simple wool cloaks who represents the mystical dimension of Islam. Sufism may be best described as Islamic mysticism or asceticism, which through belief and practice helps Muslims attain nearness to Allah.
Next we went to pay respect, reverence and homage to Nabi Seth. Seth, was the son of Adam and Eve and a prophet and messenger of Allah. His name means "gift," as he was given to Adam and Hawa as a replacement for their deceased son, Habil. Habil was killed by his brother Qabil out of jealousy and resentment.
We visited the ruins of the house of Jalaluddin Rumi, one of the world's most famous mystics and poets. Rumi was born in the Balkh complex in 1207. The learning site, which comprised a mosque, monastery and madrasa for hundreds of disciples, belonged to his father, the theologian Bahauddin Walad, known by Afghans as Sultan Al-Ulema. Afghan authorities is in the process to rebuild this 13th-century Islamic teaching complex.
The Green Mosque, or Masjid Sabz, or the Mosque of Khawaja Abu Nasr Parsa is a mosque in the city of Balkh. It contains the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa. The mosque's name is derived from the kashi tiles on the walls of the mosque, which are coloured turquoise, known locally as Turkish Green. The mosque suffered severe damage during the Soviet-Afghan War, and it fell into massive disrepair. In 2022, an explosion inside the mosque caused the destruction of some parts of the mosque as well.
Lunch was at a local restaurant. We had Kabuli mutton pillaf with chicken shasliks. In most eateries in Afghanistan, the ladies and men were seated separately. The ladies or those with family were seated in a curtained room and the men can have their meals outside.
After lunch, we climbed steep slope to visit a fort on top of the ancient wall. Historical accounts from the 10th century AD indicate that the city was ringed with earthen walls, with six gates, within which was a fine citadel and a mosque. Small sections of this wall still remains. From the top traditional Afghan houses could be seen in the rural areas. They are made of mud, stone, and wood, which provide a comfortable living space in harsh weather but have low resistance to seismic hazards.
Before we drove back to mazar-e Sherif we had a brief walking tour at the local bazaar. We did not buy anything as communication with the locals was quite a challenge.
Drove back to Mazar-e Sherif and visited the
Blue Mosque. The Afghans belief that the Shrine of Saidina Ali is located here. The Blue Mosque has been described as an oasis for peace, and it really does seem like it, considering the thousands of white doves surrounding the mosque. The doves flock on the trees, the roof, and the sidewalks. Legend has it the mosque is so sacred that any dove with a speck of color on its feathers will instantly become pure white after entering the mosque’s vicinity.
According to legend, a Middle Eastern mullah had a dream that Ali bin Abi Talib, the son-in-law and cousin of the prophet Muhammad, had his bones resting in what is now northwestern Afghanistan. Captivated by his story, Ahmad Sanjar, who was the Sultan of the Seljuq Empire from 1118 to 1157, constructed the Shrine of Ali in northwestern Afghanistan. He even constructed a city around the shrine, called Mazar-i-Sharif, to which thousands of religious Muslims migrated.
Unfortunately, a century after the shrine was built, Genghis Khan made his westward push. When he reached Mazar-i-Sharif, Khan completely destroyed the shrine. But it wasn’t gone for long. In 1481, Sultan Husayn Mizra rebuilt the Shrine of Ali in an even grander fashion, in the form of a giant blue mosque which still exists to this day.
Later we stopped for a local ice- cream treat. There were many choices of flavours but we chose Mango and Caramel topped with sweet creamy sauce to add to the delicious taste.
Back at the hotel in time for Jamak prayers.
Later we stopped for a local ice- cream treat. There were many choices of flavours but we chose Mango and Caramel topped with sweet creamy sauce to add to the delicious taste.
Back at the hotel in time for Jamak prayers.
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