Afghan 13: Nangarhar, once a major opium producer...

"Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast - you also miss the sense of where you are going and why..." - Eddie Cantor

(Serenity at its best, by the Kunar River)

Day 13: 16 October 2024 (Wednesday)
Route: KABUL/NANGARHAR/KABUL
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

We skipped breakfast as we planned for an early morning departure for a day trip to Nangarhar.

By 6.00 am we were already on the road. We made a brief stop at Eid Gha Mosque, the second largest mosque in Kabul. It serves as the main mosque not only for people of Kabul but the whole of Afghanistan. The mosque was built during the time of Babur of the Mughal Empire and has stood the test of time. It remains one of the most widely-known mosques in Kabul. 

(The mosque was built during the late 19th century)

(The back of the main entrance)

(The mosque is known for its impressive size)

(A total length of 230 meters and 76 smaller domes)

During Eid, the mosque sees gatherings of millions of people from all over Afghanistan. The architecture of this place heavily features only Mughal style. After numerous attacks on the mosque and subsequent reconstructions, it has seen some changes in architectural styles, currently giving it a contemporary look between Mughal and Modern Islamic architectures.

(The mosque outdoor space is now a beautiful park)

(Afghanistan's independence in 1919 was announced here)

(Hayat is having his Shin Chai)

The journey to Nangarhar was via the mountainous Kabul-Jalalabad road. It is a highway between Kabul and Jalalabad, the largest city in eastern Afghanistan and capital of Nangarhar Province. A portion of the road runs through the Tang-e Gharu gorge.

(The rugged road stretches approximately 152 km)

(The winding road and the scenic Tang-e Gharu gorge)

The road is about 152 km long and travels downwards from an elevation of 1790 m in Kabul to 575 m in Jalalabad. Because of the many traffic accidents, the road between Kabul and Jalalabad is considered one of the most dangerous in the world. It consists of narrow roads with sharp turns past high cliffs and a valley of the Kabul River below, with which it runs parallel. It is a large part of the Afghan leg of the Grand Trunk Road. Stopped at a view point for photo opportunities of the scenic view.

 

(A wide lay-by for vehicles to stop and take a rest)

(Watching the traffic taking the switched back curves)

Stopped for breakfast and comfort break at the R&R area over looking the valley. We had Afghan bread and fried fresh-water fish and fried chicken with chickpea curry and hot brewing sheen chai, the famous Afghan green tea.

(The scenic view of the valley)

(Having breakfast at the R&R along the route)

Nangarhar is the third most populous province in Afghanistan and shares a long border with Pakistan. Its Torkham border crossing is the most important trade route connecting Kabul to Pakistan. We arrived in Nangarhar district, passing through the busy market. Nangarhar is the food basket for the whole of Afghanistan as most of the crops produced here are consumed in different parts of the province. Nangarhar is famous for producing lemons, oranges, olives, peanuts and dates beside other fruits and vegetables.

(Driving through the busy street of Jalalabad)

(Fruit stalls along the road)

(A busy business at the wet market)

(Tuk-tuk is a common transport in town)

In Jalalabad we visited the Tomb of King Amanullah Khan. The Mausoleum is a historical site that commemorates one of Afghanistan's most progressive kings. King Amanullah Khan ruled from 1919 to 1929 and was known for his efforts to modernize Afghanistan. King Amanullah Khan ascended to the throne after Afghanistan gained its independence from British control.

( The King of Afghanistan from 1919 to 1929)

(A blend of traditional Afghan and modern architecture) 

(He died in Zurich, but was buried next to his father in Jalalabad)

We had a refreshing cool sugar cane drinks from a roadside stall before we drove off-roading to Nakamura Park. This park is where Nangarhar officially inaugurated the Nakamura Memorial Garden to mark the humanitarian work done by the late Japanese doctor Tetsu Nakamura. In October 2019. Nakamura was officially granted honorary Afghan citizenship but two months later, he was gunned down in the city. Nakamura was a Japanese physician who headed Peace Japan Medical Services (PMS), an aid group known as Peshawar-kai in Japanese. He was devoted to building canal projects, from the Kunar River in eastern Afghanistan, and was credited with transforming the desert of Gamberi, on the outskirts of Jalalabad, into lush forests and productive wheat farmlands. Nakamura also constructed two hospitals and two mosques.

(Driving through the Casuarina trees)

(The park serves as a gathering place for the locals)

(A memorial garden dedicated to the late Japanese physician)

(The park was inaugurated in October 2022)

(Nakamura headed the Peace Japan Medical Services)

(The beauty and tranquility of the park is well maintained)

(The park features lush greenery, fountains and walking paths)

(A school excursion to the park)

We had a late lunch at Kama District by the stream. We performed our prayers first before we enjoyed Afghan Sheryakh ice-cream to cool us down. The weather was really very hot in the afternoon and we were profusely sweating. We had fried fish and grilled lamb with bread for lunch.

(A restaurant with family rooms and prayer area)

(Having our lunch by the stream)

(Small kids cleaning our shoes for a small fee)

(Having ice-cream before the main dish)

Later we visited the crowded bazaar to buy kurta materials and some other local products. There was a crowd of onlookers following us wherever we went. It was quite uncomfortable to do our shopping in this crowded bazaar.

(The busy street at the bazaar)

(The bazaar is too crowded for comfort)

(A street vendor outside the bazaar)

It was already dark when we started driving on the mountainous road to Kabul. Back in Kabul, we were invited to have a home-cooked dinner at Hayat's residence and were introduced to his cousins and nephews.

(Afghan's hospitality goes beyond mere politeness)

👈Afghan 12: A Romantic Evening in Kabul...

Afghan 14: Goodbye Afghanistan...👉