2016 Tracing the Persian Silk Route...

"Don't underestimate small steps, it is only a small step which gets you closer to where you want to be tomorrow..."

TRACING THE PERSIAN SILK ROUTE
Date: 7 – 21 March 2016
Route: Tehran – Kerman – Yazd – Shiraz – Isfahan – Tabriz

Because of long standing history of coups, espionage, nuclear sanctions and everything else in between, hubby and I decided to join a large Safir tour group to visit Iran. You would be surprised that travelling to Iran is quite safe and Iranians are very friendly and hospitable.

With a 2-weeks packed itinerary, we were on a nomadic state most of the time, moving from one town to another and visited a lot of interesting historical sites of Persian ancient civilization. Many were not exactly that well-trodden and not easily accessible by public transport.

Iran is also an important constituent of the Ancient Silk Road. This trip is our effort in tracing the Ancient Silk Route where international trade was crucial for Sassanid Persians developed basically from the beginning of the century. The branch of imperial road starting in Herat, Afghanistan led northward to Merv and further to Samarkand where that road possibly merged with the Silk Road from China across the oases of Eastern Turkestan.

The area of Asia Minor and Syria was connected with the Silk Road by overland road leading along the Euphrates to the harbors of the Persian Gulf, or by ancient caravan route from Syria across Iran. Even though the modern territory of Iran is only a part of what used to be the vast Sassanid Empire, it still has a number of monuments connected with that international artery.

My travelogue in Iran:

Day 01: KL - Tehran
Day 02: Tehran - Kerman
Day 03: Kerman
Day 04: Kerman - Yazd
Day 05: Yazd - Shiraz
Day 06: Shiraz - Isfahan
Day 07: Isfahan
Day 08: Isfahan - Tehran
Day 09: Tehran - Tabriz
Day 10: Tabriz
Day 11: Tabriz - Tehran
Day 12: Tehran
Day 13: Tehran
Day 14: Tehran - KL

(Imam Khomeini Shrine in Tehran)

(Rayen Citadel in Kerman)

(Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Yazd)

(The Persepolis ruins in Shiraz)

(Iman Khomeini Square in Isfahan)

(The Boroujerdi House in Kashan)

(Colorful landscape from Zanjan to Tabriz)

(Lake Urmia in Tabriz)

(Hujjatul Islam Mosque in Tabriz Bazaar)

(The National Museum of Tehran)

Our next trip will be cruising on the Aegean Sea and islands hopping to a few Greek islands and visiting beautiful towns in Turkey, insya-Allah...

Next Trip: 2016 The Aegean Sea Cruise and Turkey Tour

2016: 01 KL - Tehran, Iran👉

2016 Iran Day 01: KL - Tehran

"The only impossible journey is the one you never begin..."

(Iran visa on arrival)

Day 01: Monday, 7 Mar 2016
Route: KUL – THR
Flight W5 082 KUL/IKA

We first booked a trip to Iran during the MATTA Fair in 2012. We waited for almost four years for this trip. It was a long wait but it was worth the while.

There was a slight delay of Mahan Air Flight W5 082 KUL/IKA supposed to depart at 11.30 pm. There were 52 of us in the tour group and for the ease of logistics, we were divided into two groups and would be handled by separate tour leaders.

(The Shah Mosque at Imam Square, Isfahan)

(A group photo at Imam Square, Isfahan)

(A group photo at Eram Garden, Shiraz)

(A group photo at Qasr Prison, Tehran)

      2016 Iran Trip: 02 Tehran - Kerman👉

👈2016 Persian Silk Route 

2016 Iran Day 02: Tehran - Kerman

"Life is a journey with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy..."

(Imam Khomeini Holy Shrine in Tehran)

Day 02: Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016
Route: Tehran - Kerman
Distance: 986 km
Hotel: Tourist Hotel, Kerman

Our flight arrived in Tehran around 04.00 am in time for Subuh prayers. There was a make-shift open prayer hall and ablutions were done in the nearby wash rooms.

There was a long wait to settle our visas-on-entry and we had to purchase local insurance although we already have travel insurance.

(Arrival hall of Imam Khomeini International Airport)

(The double-decker bus for the Tehran tour)

Once we cleared Immigration and Customs checks, we were greeted by Mohamad, our local guide and boarded a double decker bus to Enghelab Hotel in Tehran for breakfast. During breakfast we changed USD300 into Iranian rials with the local agent with a promise that we could change back the balance of the rials to USD at the end of our stay in Iran at the same exchange rates.

After a hearty breakfast and freshened, we boarded the bus for the day tour to some of the historical sites in Tehran.

Imam Khomeini Holy Shrine, Tehran

The Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini houses the tomb of Ruhollah Khomeini and his family – his wife Khadijeh Saqafi and his second son Ahmad Khomeini – and some political figures like Hassan Habibi, Ali Sayad Shirazi, and Sadeq Tabatabaei. It is located to the south of Tehran in the Behesht-e Zahra cemetery.

(The complex is still under construction)

(Picnic place around the complex)

The place is still under construction, but when completed it will be the center piece in a complex spread over 5,000 acres housing a cultural and tourist center, a university for Islamic studies, a seminary and a shopping mall.

The site is used symbolically by government figures and a place of pilgrimage for followers of Ayatollah Khomeini.

After the visit we drove back to Enghelab Hotel for a late lunch and prayer break, then continued our day tour.

Museum of the Qasr Prison

It is formerly known as the Castle Prison and was one of the oldest political prisons in Iran. The former prison buildings and offices are turned into museum complex surrounded by a public park.

(The front facade of Qasr Prison)

(A light air craft displayed outside the prison)

(A brief history of the prison by the guide)

(The main fighting arena of the prison)

(A photo with the prison warden)

(A typical prison cell)

(Visiting the prisoners)

(A prisoner's shredded body and soul)

(The courtyard of the Qasr Prison)

(A painting on the wall)

(A poem written by a prisoner, displayed in the museum)

(An interesting display in the prison museum)

(Paisley designs on the wall)

Jewelry Museum, Tehran

The Imperial crown jewels of Iran also known as the Imperial crown jewels of Persia include elaborate crowns, thirty tiaras, and numerous aigrettes, a dozen bejeweled swords and shields, a number of unset precious gems, numerous plates and other dining services cast in precious metals and encrusted with gems, and several other more unusual items such as a large golden globe with the oceans made of emeralds collected by the Iranian monarchy.

(The ticket to the museum)

The collection is housed at The Treasury of National Jewels situated inside the Central Bank of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Photography was prohibited outside and inside the museum.

(The busy streets littered with yellow and green cabs)

(Murals on the wall)

By 4.30 pm we boarded the bus to the Mehrabab International Airport for our domestic flight.

Our onward Iran Air flight W5 THR/KER departed at 06.20 pm and arrived in Kerman around 08.00 pm. Mr. Mohamad flew with us to Kerman and the group was met by Mr. Hussein, another local tour guide who will be with us throughout our journey in Iran.

(Boarding the domestic flight to Kerman)

       2016 Iran Trip: 03 Kerman👉

👈2016 Iran Trip: 01 KL – Tehran 

2016 Iran Day 03: Kerman

"The journey of life is not meant to be feared or planned. It is meant to be traveled and enjoyed..."

(The majestic wall of Rayan Citadel)

Day 03: Wednesday, 9 Mar 2016
Kerman Province
Hotel: Iran Tourist Hotel, Kerman

Kerman is the capital city of Kerman Province, the 10th most populous city of Iran. It is the largest and most developed city in the southeast of Iran. It is also one of the largest cities of Iran in terms of area. Kerman is famous for its long history and strong cultural heritage. The city is home to many historic mosques and Zoroastrian fire temples. Kerman is also on the recent list of the world's 1000 cleanest cities. Kerman became capital city of Iranian dynasties several times during its history.

After breakfast, we boarded two buses and started our tour to some of the historical interesting sites around Kerman.

(A very wet morning to start the long trip)

(Beautiful mountain ranges along the way)

(Snow-capped mountains viewed from the highway)

Rayen Citadel, Kerman

It is an adobe castle 100 km south of Kerman province on the skirts of the mountain Haraz. The medieval mudbrick city of Rayen is similar to the Arg-e Bam city which was destroyed in an earthquake in December 2003. Rayen displays all the architectural elements of a deserted citadel. It is extremely well preserved, despite numerous natural disasters that have destroyed similar structures nearby.

(Arriving at the medieval mudbrick city of Rayen)

(Believed to be at least 1,000 years old)

(The outer walls of the castle enclose the main Governor's citadel)

According to the old documents, it was situated on the trade route, and was one of the centres for trading valuable goods and quality textiles. It was also a centre of sword and knife manufacturing, and later on, also guns. During the reign of third Yazdgerd, the Sasanid King, Arabs could not conquer this city due to its high walls supporting the counterparts of the city.

(It is extremely well preserved despite numerous natural disasters)

(Walking along the narrow corridors)

(The roof top, with several steep staircases leading up)

(Most of the houses are dilapidated, a few still stand)

(You can get lost in the maze)

(The biggest earthen structure after Bam Citadel)

(A garden outside Rayen Castle)

Shazdeh Garden, Kerman

Shazdeh Garden, is a historical Persian garden located on the outskirts of Mahan in Kerman province. The garden was originally built for Mohammad Hassan Khan Qajar Sardari Iravani in 1850. It was expanded in 1870 by Abdolhamid Mirza Naseroddoleh which continued during the 11 years of his governorship during the Qajar reign. Its location was selected strategically as it was placed on the route between Bam Citadel and Kerman.

(An entrance structure and gate at the lower level)

(A two-floor residential buiding at the upper level)

The garden itself consists of a variety of pine, cedar, elm, buttonwood and fruit trees which benefit from the appropriate soil, subterranean water canal and suitable weather. The pools around Shazdeh Garden were built in a terraced fashion.

Shazdeh Garden is among the 9 Iranian Gardens which are collectively registered as one of the Iran’s 17 registered World Heritage Sites under the name of the Persian Garden in 2011.

(A restaurant and picnic area at upper level)

(Beautiful flowers of cherry blossom)

Shazdeh Garden is a rectangular shape with a wall around it and surrounded by desert land. It has an entrance and a gate at the lower end and a two-floor residential structure at the upper end. The distance between these two is lined by water fountains. Other than the main residential building, the garden consists of a two-storied building for which the second floor was used as living quarters and for receiving guests. Other smaller utility rooms are situated along the sides of the garden.

We had our lunch at the restaurant in Shazdeh Garden and performed our prayers at the praying hall, used to be a chapel. Ablutions were from the icy cool canal water from the mountains.

Jame Mosque, Kerman

Our next stop was at Kerman Jame Mosque also known as the Friday Mosque. The mosque is one of the most ancient structures in the country. The mosque has a tall gate-way in its eastern sector and adorned with beautiful tile works. There is a clock tower aids in the enhancement of the entrance.

(The main entrance of the mosque with the clock structure)

(The back entrance leads into the grand bazaar)

The Friday mosque is on an important crossroads of mercantile activities connecting north to south and west to east. This location led to the emergence of its famous, vibrant bazaar. The bazaar begins at the Friday mosque's rear portal and extends along the east-west axis, ending at the Arg Square. The Friday mosque is the earliest surviving example of Muzaffarid architecture.

(The couryard of the mosque)

(Ceramic blue tile adorning the walls)

(Quranic verses decorating the mosque)

Ghanjali Khan Compleks, Kerman

The Ganjali Khan Complex is a Safavid-era building complex, located in the old city of Kerman. The complex is composed of a school, a square, a caravanserai, a bathhouse, a water reservoir, a mint, a mosque and a bazaar. Ganjali Khan Complex is centered on a large public square which is aligned with Vakil Bazaar running east-west to its south.

(A busy bazaar but easy enough to navigate)

(The Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest trading centres)

(The main thoroughfare is made up of smaller bazaars)

(Varieties of Spices and nuts on display)

(The main gate leading to the Jameh Mosque)

(The mosque within the Grand Bazaar)

The square is enveloped by bazaar arcades to the north, south and west and is flanked by the Ganjali Caravanserai to the east. The entrance to the Ganjali bathhouse is located along a section of Vakil Bazaar south of the square, known as Ganjali Khan Bazaar. The complex was built in Isfahani style of architecture.

(The entrance to the Ghanjali Khan Bath House)

(Beautiful painting plaster works)

(The main chamber of the bath house)

(Intricate tile-works decorating the walls)

(Each chamber is devoted to a certain social class)

(Many life-like statues in the Anthropology Museum)

(An ancient time stone in the Bath House)

(The Ghanjali Complex at dusk)

     2016 Iran Trip: 04 Kerman - Yazd👉

👈2016 Iran Trip: 02 Tehran - Kerman