Yunnan 02: A Traditional Yunnan Dining Experience...

“Travelling a thousand miles is better than reading ten thousand books...” - Chinese proverb

(A Peacock Banquet - a taste of tradition)

Day 02: 25 August 2025 (Monday)
Route: Kunming - Dali
Hotel: Dali Manyue M Garden Hotel

The day began with a 6.00 am wake-up call, followed by breakfast at 7.00 and check-out at 8.30. It seems this routine will shape the rhythm of our mornings throughout the journey, unless plans change. Whenever possible, the group requested the hotel to prepare Muslim-friendly breakfasts, but on days when that wasn’t available, we were content with simple breakfast - salad, toast, boiled eggs, and fruits. We also brought along a thermos to make our own hazelnut blended coffee for the road. Our little thermos has become quite a companion. These small comforts soften the early morning starts and add warmth to the journey. 

(Ready to hit the road)

(Our bus for the whole trip)

(A 44-seater bus with comfortable reclining seats)

We started our journey to Dali by bus. The route was on modern expressways with tunnels cutting through mountainous terrain. The bus ride lets us see much more of rural Yunnan. The highway winds through the foothills of the Hengduan Mountains, with rolling green hills and terraced farmland. The distance between the two cities is 340 km and the journey took more than 4 hours, with a brief comfort stop at one of the R&R in Chuxiong, half way between Kunming and Dali.

(Elevated train tracks connecting cities)

(Stretching our legs at the R&R in Chuxiong)

(Having a cup of steaming hot coffee)

We had lunch at one of the many Muslim restaurants in Xiangyun County in Dali. The family-run restaurant serves a variety of Chinese dishes and stir-fried vegetables. Meals were served on a big round table for 10 persons. Each meal usually has 10 dishes. The food in Yunnan is less oily and spicy than Sichuan cuisine but still flavorful.

(A Muslim restaurant in Xiangyun County)

(A table full of flavourful dishes)

(Colourful garden around the restaurant)

 
After lunch, we performed jamak prayers at Xianyun Mosque, a short driving distance from the restaurant but we had to walk quite a distance from the main road as the road leading to the mosque is narrow and busy.

(A narrow two-way street leading to the mosque)

(Stopping by a Cultural Heritage Site)

(EV scooters for rental)

The Xiangyun Mosque is one of the notable mosques in Xiangyun County, located about 60 km east of Dali Ancient Town. Xiangyun has a significant Hui Muslim community, and the mosque reflects the long presence of Islam along the old Tea Horse Road in Yunnan. Traditional Chinese mosque style with green-tiled roofs, wooden beams, and courtyard layout. It blends Chinese temple aesthetics with Islamic prayer hall design. The mosque serves as a center for daily prayers, Jumu’ah prayers, Qur’an studies, and community events. The main prayer hall is on the first floor and the ladies prayer hall is on the upper floor.

 

(Government propaganda on the wall)

(Xiangyun Mosque catering for the Hui Muslim community)

(A spacious main prayer hall)

The bus took us to The 'Santorini of Dali'. It is a resort town in Dali that mimic the whitewashed architecture, blue-domed buildings, and cliffside views of Santorini, Greece. There was a large crowd of visitors and there was a long queue at the buggy station. This tourist area features charming villas, cafes, and hotels overlooking Erhai Lake, offering romantic backdrops and Instagram-worthy photo opportunities for visitors. It is a popular destination for couples, honeymooners, and wedding photography, providing a taste of a Greek-like atmosphere.

(A stage with decorated traditional headgear for cultural events)

(The ticket counter at the buggy station)

(Blue domes and cliffside views)

(A beautiful view of Erhai Lake)

We treated ourselves to high tea at one of the many restaurants overlooking the lake and mountains. With Chinese tea, fresh fruit juice, a plate of tropical fruits, and cakes on the table, we sat back and soaked in the beautiful scenery around us.

(A platter of tropical fruits)

(Photo opportunities against the lake view)

On the way back to our bus, we wandered past a lively local market. Stalls overflowed with fruits. Some familiar, others wild and seasonal, gathered by villagers. I spotted wild figs, tiny mountain peaches, and even sour fruits that locals turn into pickles and refreshing drinks. To my surprise, right beside them were trays of fried insects, crunchy snacks that seemed to draw as much attention as the fruits.

(Incredible varieties of local fruits)

(Crunchy fried insects for snacks)

We arrived in Dali City in late evening. Dali City is located in western Yunnan, approximately 250 km from Kunming. Dali is situated in the transition area between the dramatic valleys of the Hengduan Ranges on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau and the distinctive mountains of the western Yungui Plateau. The county-level city surrounds Erhai Lake between the Cang Mountains and Mount Jizu. Dali is a popular tourist destination for domestic Chinese tourists, one of the string of towns described in Yunnan tourist trail leading up to the beautiful Tiger Leaping Gorge. 

(Passing through Dali City)

(The modern Dali City by Erhai Lake)

(A beautiful lake with stunning views of the mountains) 

Dinner was at the Peacock Thai Restaurant in Dali. A large decorative peacock sculpture served as a centerpiece on the dining table. Food were arranged around the base of the peacock sculpture, creating a visually appealing presentation. The dishes were also delicious and flavourful.

(A beautifully arranged platter of dishes and condiments)

It was already late at night when we visited Dali Old City which is located about 13 km from Dali New Town. It is a beautifully preserved old town with traditional Bai ethnic architecture, cobbled streets, and views of Cangshan Mountain to the west and Erhai Lake to the east. It was once an important stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. It is popular to backpackers and the ancient walled city is a hippie's heaven.

(Pretty Bai girls in traditional attires)

(A peek in the courtyard of a heritage dwelling)

We walked on the cobblestones lanes along the canals. The canals of Dali Old Town flow quietly beneath stone bridges and alongside flower-lined streets, carrying fresh water down from Cangshan Mountain.  Locals still tend to the water in simple, traditional ways - washing vegetables, rinsing clothes, or just letting the canals nurture the blossoms along their banks. In the evening, when lanterns reflect on the surface, the whole town feels almost dreamlike.

(Network of canals winding through the streets)

(Wuhua Tower, a majestic landmark of the ancient city)

It was quite a surprise that there was still a large crowd at the Fu Xing Road which is the main street lined with chique cafés, bars and handicraft shops. Like many Chinese tourist destinations, the old town has architecture that dates back to the Ming dynasty, but has been extensively renovated, rebuilt and modernized. The city South and North Gates were Impressively lighted. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, the iconic symbol of Dali, is located just outside the old town.

(The old city is brightly lighted at night)

(Folk dance in the old city square) 

From the old city, the bus took us to our hotel, about an hour’s drive away. After a refreshing shower, we performed our prayers and settled in to rest our weary bodies. I drifted off within seconds and slept soundly until dawn.

(Dali Manyue M Garden Hotel)

👈Yunnan 01: Jurassic Welcome At Kunming Airport

Yunnan 03: A Joyful Mawlid Celebration At Nanmen Mosque...👉

Yunnan 03: A Joyful Mawlid Celebration At Nanmen Mosque...

“A long road tests a horse’s strength; time reveals a person’s heart...” - Chinese proverb

(Dali South Gate Mosque)

Day 03: 26 August 2925 (Tuesday)
Route: Dali - Xizhou - Lijiang
Hotel: Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel

At 2,090 meters above sea level, Dali enjoys a mild and comfortably cool climate, though the air can feel chilly, especially in the shade. As we explored the attractions here today, I kept my shawl close at hand for warmth. Later, we’ll be traveling onward to Lijiang, where the higher elevation will surely bring a shift in the weather. I can only hope my body adjusts well to the changes.

(Feeling refreshed in the early morning)

(A simple breakfast of sweet buns, eggs and fries)

(Man and sculpture sharing the same pose)

(The early birds,waiting for the others)

This morning our first visit was at Xizhou Ancient Town, a well-preserved Bai ethnic settlement in Dali. It is another gem of Dali, and it feels more authentic and less commercialized compared to Dali Old Town which we visited late last night. Xizhou is known for its Bai Minority Courtyard Houses. Many houses are over 100 years old, decorated with beautiful murals and carvings.

(Visitor Centre of Xizhou Ancient Town)

(The historical overview of Xizhou)

(A traditional Chinese bridge and its reflection)

(The Justice Gate of Xizhou Ancient Town)

(A traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop)

(Yan Jia Hou Lu Restaurant)

(A shop selling varieties of wild mushrooms)

Eager to taste the local delicacies from the bustling street stalls, we bought Xizhou Baba - the famous Bai snack. Golden and crispy on the outside, the round stuffed bread revealed its flavors with each bite, whether in a savory filling or a sweet, indulgent version.

(Trying out the local snacks)

(A Halal street food vendor)

(Embroidered and tie and dye scarves)

(The ancient gate at the main square)

(The main square of Xizhou Ancient Town)

By 11.30 am we left Xizhou Ancient Town to visit a Muslim village where we observed the making of 'Ru Shan', a popular fan-shaped cheese snack from Dali. It is made by stretching and drying fresh cow's milk curdled with a souring agent. Locals and tourists alike enjoy it grilled or fried. Here we were served with tea, local fruits and local snacks and had the opportunity to tour the neat houses and courtyards.

 

(A Muslim Village in Dali)

(The house of Ma Family)

(A pear tree bearing abundance of fruits)

(A taste of sweet wild plums)

From the Muslim Village we walked to the Nanmen Mosque or the Dali South Gate Mosque. It is one of the most ancient mosques in Yunnan province. The mosque was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). According to records, The South Gate Mosque was initially situated on Cangping Street, after the failure of the Muslim uprising led by Du Wenxiu, the mosque was converted by the Qing government into the City God Temple of Dali. In 1944, it was converted into a district court, but eventually being restored to its original purpose as a mosque. The mosque bears a strong influence from traditional Chinese architecture, with both its main hall and minaret resembling the ancient Chinese architectural styles. We performed our jamak prayers in a temporary prayer room as the main prayer room was crowded with jemaah celebrating the Mawlid. The mosques was well decorated and in a festivities atmosphere There was a food bazaar outside the mosque selling local snacks and dishes.

(Traditional Chinese style with curved roofs)

(The mosque complex comforming to Chinese architecture)

(Meeting and resting place for travellers)

(Wooden structure and beautiful courtyard)

( A prayer room on the upper floor)

(Nanmen Mosque is in a festive mood)

(The crowd at the food bazaar)

We had lunch at Dali Baizu Restaurant in Eryuan County, adjacent to Dali. The family-run restaurant is known for its traditional Bai ethnic cuisine. From crispy popiah, sweet pickled vegetables to tangy Erhai fish. Every bite tells the Bai people’s story of life, flavor, and tradition.

(Traditional Bai ethnic cuisines)

(The ladies with the owner of the restaurant)

After lunch we travelled to Lijiang, about 192 km from Dali. We had a brief comfort stop at a R&R along the highway. As Lijiang is on high altitude, some of us bought herbal medicine. This traditional remedy is used to ease altitude sickness symptoms such as headache, dizziness and fatigue.

(A Yak statue against the mountains at the R&R)

(Herbal remedies to combat AMS)

By 5.30 pm we reached the city of Lijiang and went direct to Lijiang Ancient Town of Naxi Minority, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Old Town of Lijiang contains a mixture of different historical architecture styles. We walked around slowly and breath deeply and watched the crowd. Bought some fridge magnets for souvenirs. There is a bonfire around 7:00 pm at the Si Fang Jie, the central plaza. Many local folks in their national costumes singing and dancing, apparently entertaining themselves and the tourists.

(Lijiang Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site)

(The iconic giant water wheels at Lijiang Old Town)

(Monument reflecting the local Naxi culture and History)

(Wide stone paved street)

(A learned bearded old man)

(Unique blend of architectural styles)

(Lively scene in the old town of Lijiang)

(Locals in traditional costumes)

( A glass of iced sugar cane juice to quench the thirst)

(The wall depicts elements of Naxi culture and history)

After a long day exploring Lijiang’s old towns and nearby attractions, we satisfied our hunger with a hearty halal feast at a Muslim restaurant in Gucheng District, indulging in a spread of mouth-watering local dishes.

 

(A spread of local specialties)

Checked in Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel where we will be staying for two nights here. The hotel’s location offers easy access to Lijiang Ancient Town and nearby supermarkets. The room is quite spacious and tidy, with smart facilities. The hotel has a scenic rooftop terrace with the Rizhao Jinshan Mountain views.

(Our lodging for two nights)

Yunnan 02: A Traditional Yunnan Dining Experience...

Yunnan 04: A Dragon Lying In The Clouds Of Snow Mountain...