2019 Autumn in Mongolia – Too many wasted sunsets...

“It is better to see one time than to hear one hundred times…” – Mongolian proverb 

(The Golden Eagle, Takhi Horses and two-hump camels of Mongolia)

We are celebrating our 40th Anniversary in Mongolia.

Mongolia is a landlocked unitary sovereign state in East Asia. Its area is roughly equivalent with the historical territory of Outer Mongolia, and that term is sometimes used to refer to the current state. It is sandwiched between China to the south and Russia to the north. While it does not share a border with Kazakhstan, Mongolia is separated from it by only 36 km.

(A lone ger at Khugnu Khan Mountain)

I never imagined myself visiting this part of the world before. Once this idea fell into place, I had gathered lots of information and literatures. And after reading about this remote culture and beautiful country, it has become more inspiring and enchanting and had triggered my curiosity to visit the place and see it for myself.

(Mongol Nomadic Ger Camp)

If you’re one of the unique brave souls, it is an absolute requirement to add Mongolia to your bucket list.

Day 01 - Kuala Lumpur – Seoul – Ulaanbaatar
Day 02 - Ulaanbaatar City
Day 03 - Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex, Terelj National Park
Day 04 - Hustai National Park
Day 05 - Elsen Tasarkhai & Khugnu Khan Mountain
Day 06 - Kharkhorin & Ugii Lake
Day 07 - Ulaanbaatar City
Day 08 - Ulaanbaatar – Seoul - Kuala Lumpur

(The routing of our Mongolia trip)

Fb album: Mongolia Adventure

Next trip: Danang, Vietnam

 2019 Mongolia: 01 KL - Seoul - Ulaanbaatar 👉

Mongolia 2019: 01 KL - Seoul - Ulaanbaatar

“Only he that has travelled the road knows where the holes are deep…” - Chinese proverb

(Arriving at Chinggis Khaan International Airport)

Day-01: Sunday 01/09/2019
Route: KL – Seoul - Ulaanbaatar

Flight to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
KUL ICN 1405 2145/ICN ULN 0135 0415

(Still in Merdeka mood at KLIA)

By 10:00 we checked-in at KLIA for our onward journey to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia via Seoul, Korea. The Korean Air flight to Incheon International Airport was uneventful but on time. As it was a code-sharing flight, we had no problem with our meals on board. I spent most of the time listening to in-flight music in between napping. We had a 4-hour transit in Incheon International Airport, ample time to get to the transfer desk for our onward boarding pass and performed our prayers before we boarded the MIAT Mongolian Airline to Ulaanbaatar.

(The Peanuts next to the Prayer Room in Incheon Airport)

 2019 Mongolia: Ulaanbaatar City Tour👉

👈2019 Autumn in Mongolia – Too many wasted sunsets 

Mongolia 2019: 02 Ulaanbaatar City Tour

“Not all those who wander are lost…” - J.R.R. Tolkien 

(Zaisan Memorial, Ulaanbaatar)

Day-02: Monday 02/09/2019
Destination: Ulaanbaatar City Tour
Hotel: Hotel Nine Ulaanbaatar

We arrived at Chinggis Khaan International Airport, Ulaanbaatar around 04:15 and were met by our guides Mr Gur and Mr Torgu. We performed our Subuh prayers and changed foreign currency to Mongolian Tugrug before we boarded the mini bus and drove to Ulaanbaatar for our city tour.

(Chinggis Khan International Airport)

Ulaanbaatar, literally means ‘Red Hero’, is the capital and largest city of Mongolia. The city population was over 1.3 million, almost half of the country's population. The city is in north central Mongolia at an elevation of about 1,300 m in a valley on the Tuul River. It is the country's cultural, industrial and financial heart, the centre of Mongolia's road network and connected by rail to both the Trans-Siberian Railway in Russia and the Chinese railway system. The city was founded in 1639 as a nomadic Buddhist monastic centre. It settled permanently at its present location, the junction of the Tuul and Selbe rivers. The city is beautiful, modern and clean.

(First glimpse of Ulaanbaatar and Tuul River)

(One of the Power Plants in Ulaanbaatar)

Our first visit was to Zaisan Hill, where the Zaisan Memorial lies in the foothills to the south of Ulaanbaatar. It was built by the Russians as a monument to Soviet soldiers fallen in World War Two. A tiled mural lies within a huge concrete ring, which is raised about 5 m above the ground. The Zaisan memorial lies about 20 minutes’ walk up a steep hill of 321 steps. It was worth the climb to enjoy the spectacular views of the city from the top of the hill.

(A slow and steady climb to the memorial)

(The sun is rising on the horizon)

(A monument for the fallen Russian Soldiers)

(A panoramic view from the top of the hill)

Although it was still early in the morning, there was a large crowd of foreigners and local tourists visiting the memorial. The excellent views over Ulaanbaatar give one an appreciation of the size of the ever-sprawling city, and a good view of the Tuul River as it winds its way from the heights of Terelj National Park down between the factories and power stations of Ulaanbaatar.

(A tiled mural depicting WWII events)

(A story behind each scene of the mural)

(A good view from the top of Zaisan hill)

By 08:00 we were already able to check-in at Ulaanbaatar Nine Hotel and had a hearty breakfast of cereal, bread and egg omelette. The hotel restaurant served non-halal dishes as well on the buffet spread, so one need to be extra careful to choose. After more than eleven hours on the plane, we had a good 3-hour rest in our spacious and cosy room. It was unusual for tourists to be allowed to check-in early, but this time luck was on our side.

We performed our prayers and skipped lunch as we were still full. By 13:00 we gathered at the lobby for our next visit but we were made to wait for over an hour when our guide went to buy sim cards. This errand should have been done earlier while we were rested in the rooms. Later, we went for a drive around the city of Ulaanbaatar and visited the Hard Rock Café for some souvenir shopping.

(Hard Rock Cafe, Ulaanbaatar)

(A must visit for Hard Rock collectibles)

Next destination was the Sukhbaatar Square previously known as Chinggis Square. It is the central square of Ulaanbaatar. The official name was changed in 2013 in honor of Genghis Khan, considered to be the founding father of Mongolia, and then changed back in 2016. A large colonnade monument to Genghis Khan, as well as to Ögedei Khan, and Kublai Khan dominates the square's north side directly in front of the Saaral Ordon, the Government Palace. The center of the square features an equestrian statue of Damdin Sükhbaatar, one of the leaders of Mongolia's 1921 revolution. The square at this time of the day was busy with preparations for the visit of the Russian Premier, Vladimir Putin to sign a Landmark Treaty with Mongolia. A lot of streets were expected to be closed in the evening.

(Sukhbaatar Square, Ulaanbaatar)

(Equestrian statue of Damdin Sukhbaatar)

(Parliament Building in Sukhbaatar Square)

(The statue of Genghis Khan)

(A Mongolian in a traditional attire)

From the Sukhbaatar Square, we walked a short distance to the National History Museum. The museum is a cultural, scientific, and educational organization, which is responsible for the collection, conservation and interpretation of the objects under its curation. The first museum in Mongolia, was established in 1924 and became the basis for other museums, including the National Museum of Mongolian History. Exhibitions cover prehistory, pre-Mongol Empire history, Mongol Empire, Mongolia during Qing rule, ethnography and traditional life, and twentieth-century history. The ethnographic collection has significant displays of the traditional dress of various Mongolian ethnic groups. We paid for a guided tour and visited almost all the sections. Audio-guided tour was also available but unfortunately, photography was not permitted.

(A short distance from Sukhbaatar Square)

(The National History Museum of Mongolia)

(Genghis Khan at the museum entrance)

(Nine exhibition chambers)

(Time for souvenir shopping)

Before going back to the hotel, we stopped at the State Department Store to buy food provisions. The 6-floor store is a place where you could find everything you might need under one roof. There is one whole floor dedicated to souvenir hunting.

(Ready for dinner at Hotel Nine)

(Quite a large portion for one)

After freshening up in the hotel, we drove to Ankara Turkish Restaurant for a sumptuous pilaf rice and chicken dinner.

(A large serpent at the entrance)

Tonight, feeling overly exhausted and sleepy, we slept early and rested our tired body well.

 

 2019 Mongolia: 03 Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex & Terelj National Park👉

👈2019 Mongolia: 01 KL - Seoul - Ulaanbaatar 

Mongolia 2019: 03 Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex & Terelj National Park

“Each country's customs are different, just as each meadow's grass is different...” - Mongolian Proverb 

(Chinggis Khan Equestrian Statue)

Day-03: Tuesday 03/09/2019
Destination: Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex & Terelj National Park
Lodging: Tengeriin Ger Camp Terelj National Park

This morning the sun was shining brightly, the air crisp and after a good heavy breakfast we were ready to be on the road. We checked-out and boarded our bus and prepared ourselves for a very long journey to Terelj National Park where we will be spending the night in a Ger Camp in the National Park.

(Scattered community of nomadic gers and livestock)

(A good highway across the vast rugged terrain)

(A bit of off-roading for a short cut)

Having an efficient driver and a good guide was a bonus to us as our bus would be maneuvering the paved and unpaved road. The highway was surprisingly quite good but a few times, our driver will take shortcuts and drove off-roading so we would be bouncing in our seats endlessly. Regardless of the bumpy journey, we really enjoyed the natural scenery of the open field steppes, gorgeous rolling mountains and rocky hills.

(A watering hole for the livestock)

(Criss-crossing the railway lines)

(A must stop for berries from a road-side vendor)

We detoured to visit the magnificent Chinggis Khaan Statue, claimed to be the tallest equestrian statue in the world. This tallest monument in the world is part of the Genghis Khan Statue Complex. It is a 40 m tall statue of Genghis Khan on horseback, on the bank of the Tuul River, situated about 54 km east of Ulaanbaatar. The statue is symbolically pointed east towards his birthplace. The Complex is 10 m tall, with 36 columns representing the 36 khans from Genghis to Ligdan Khan. Visitors can walk to the head of the horse through its chest and neck for a panoramic view.

(The entrance to the Chinggis Khan Complex)

(The tallest equestrian statue in the world)

(A good view of the surrounding valley from the horse head)

The main statue area is surrounded by 200 gers, designed and arranged like the pattern of the horse brand marks that were used by the 13th century Mongol tribes. There is a museum with exhibitions relating to the Bronze Age and Xiongnu archaeological cultures in Mongolia. Adjacent to the museum is a tourist and recreation centre with a few souvenir shops. Around the complex, tourists could embark on activities such as camel or horseback riding, eagles and archery activities to have a taste of truly authentic Mongolian nomadic experience.

(A huge Mongolian boot in the museum)

(Beautiful vibrant bridesmaids for a photo shoot)

(Met a fellow biker from Switzerland)

Before we reached Terelj National Park we made a stop at a Shaman View Point to have a good view of the surrounding area. The first thing I noticed was a stack of stones with pieces of cloth and ribbons tied to a pole at the centre. There were people circling around it at the time. According to our local guide, the locals called it Ovoo which mean ‘magnificent bundle of shrine’. The shrine is made of sacred stone heaps and wood used as altars in Mongolian folk religious practice and in the religion of other Mongolic peoples. Ovoos are often found at the top of mountains and in high places, like mountain passes. In modern times, some of them have developed into large and elaborate structures, becoming more like temples than simple altars. They serve mainly as sites for the worship of Heaven and lesser gods led by shamans and elders, but also for Buddhist ceremonies. For the locals, when traveling, it has become a custom to stop and circle an ovoo three times, moving clockwise, in order to have a safer journey.

(Dusty road leading to the viewpoint)

(A strong Russian 4x4 vehicle for the rugged terrain)

(An Ovoo shrine at the viewpoint)

(An elegant golden eagle)

(The view of Tuul River from the viewpoint)

(A photo opportunity by the Tuul River)

From the view point we crossed the Tuul River after paying the entrance fee to enter the Terelj National Park. It is a well-known National Park among other national parks of Mongolia. The Terelj tourist zone has a number of tourist camps. Located about 37 km from Ulaanbaatar, most of the tourist camps and tourist attractions are before the settlement of Terelj, which features small shops and restaurants. A small southern portion of the park is developed for tourists, with restaurants, souvenir shops, horses and camels for rent, eagles and archery activities and clusters of Tourist Ger Camps.

(The entrance tickets to Terelj National Park)

(Crossing the Tuul River into the National Park)

(Entering Terelj National Park)

(Beautiful colours of Autumn)

However, most part of the park is undeveloped and difficult to access. Attractions include Khagiin Khar Lake, a 20 m deep glacial lake 80 km upstream from the tourist camps, and Yestii Hot Water Springs, natural hot springs 18 km further upstream. The park also has a Buddhist monastery that is open to visitors. The park wildlife includes brown bears and over 250 species of birds. The Tuul River flows through the park. The park has many rock formations for rock climbers, and includes two famous formations named for things they resemble, Turtle Rock and the Praying Lama Rock.

(One of the many Ger Camp Resort)

(The Turtle Rock)

(The Praying Lama Rock)

We checked-in into our Ger at the Tengeriin Ger Camp, had our kembara lunch and performed our prayers. After a short rest we went to visit the Turtle Rock or ‘Melkhii Khad’ which is 24 m tall granite formation. The rock obviously bears a striking resemblance to a turtle when viewed from a certain angle. This giant rock formation with its surrounding landscape is a popular spot for photo opportunity.

(The Ger camps by the Turtle Rock)

(Horse riding activity around the Turtle Rock)

After visiting the souvenir shop nearby, we later visited the Aryabal Temple. The temple is one of the most beautiful spots in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. It is hidden in the mountains located nearby the Turtle Rock. Aryabal is believed to be a Buddhist God who listens to all the prayers of humankind and releases humankind from suffering. It was built in the shape of an elephant’s head. The number 108 is an auspicious number in Buddhism. Therefore the stairs leading to the temple consist of 108 steps and symbolizes the elephant’s elongated trunk. Moreover, signs with 144 Buddhist teachings, written in English and Mongolian, lined the sides of the path to the temple. The temple style is more Tibetan styled like white square shaped and white colored main building and porcelain roofs decorated with Buddhist and religious signs. The decoration at the temple houses depicts paradise and hell. Aryabal Temple belongs to the Kalachakra sect of Buddhism, which was built by Mongolian and Tibetan artists. Buddhist monks from Manzushir monastery came to this temple to meditate.

(A small entrance fee to Aryabal Temple)

(The steep stairs of Aryabal Temple)

(The 108 steps to the top)

(Aryabal Temple meditation hall)

(Paintings on the rocks)

It was a challenging effort to trek to Aryapala. This tiny and out-of-reach Buddhist temple is tucked between a rocky mountainside and looking out at the entire park. You have to cross the ‘Bridge to Heaven’, a long swinging suspension bridge, and trek up the 108 steep steps to reach the temple. You would be rewarded for your effort when you look down and see the fascinating view from the top.

(Our lodging for tonight)

(A comfortable 3-bed ger)

(Hot stove in the middle of the ger)

After sunset, we rushed to have hot shower in the communal bathroom. If you are unlucky you have to shower in the icy cold water when the hot water ran out. Dinner was served in a larger ger, converted into a comfy warm dining hall.

(Vegetarian Pizza and pumpkin soup for dinner)

(Delicious blue berry cupcake for dessert)

The weather had dropped from 27°C in the afternoon to 10°C at night. We were lucky to have electric heater in our ger, the one and only in the camp, to the envy of others. The rest had to burn wood in the traditional heater placed at the centre of the ger to keep warm.

 2019 Mongolia: o4 Hustai National Park👉

👈2019 Mongolia: 02 Ulaanbaatar City Tour