A traveller's reflection: Mongolia 2019: 06 Kharkhorin & Ugii Lake

“Greed keeps men forever poor, even the abundance in this world will not make them rich...” – Mongolian proverb

(Kharkhorin, the ancient city of Mongolia)

Day-06: Friday 06/09/2019
Destination: Kharkhorin & Ugii Lake
Lodging: Ugii Khishig Ger Camp

After breakfast, we packed our bags and checked out of Bayan Gobi Camp and went for camel riding.

(Toast and scrambled eggs for breakfast)

(Ready to explore the Gobi Desert)

(Going for a ride around the camp)

The Elsen Tasarkhai is a part of the Mongol Els Sand Dunes that continues 80 km long and 5 km wide. The area is surrounded by sand dunes, hills covered with rare bushes and a small forest near a river. It presents a unique combination of Mongolian mountains, forests and Gobi-type landscape. This area is 80 km east of Kharakhorum, the ancient Mongolian capital. The area is populated by the Maral stag/elk, wolves, deer and fox. The Elsen Tasarhai literally means ‘an isolated torn-off piece of sand’ and it is a small desert in the midst of green steppes. It feels like in the Gobi Desert, and visitors can hike in the sand dunes.

(Camel riding activity in the morning)

(Waiting for instructions from the leader)

(Disciplined tamed camels neatly lined up)

(My double-hump camel ride)

(The Gobi Desert, cool weather early in the morning)

After the camel ride, we visited a nomadic family nearby. It is a chance of exploring their real routine life and feel the hospitality. We were welcomed into their ger and offered ‘Suutei tsai’ or milk tea or ‘Airag’ or mare’s milk with biscuits. You would be surprised that their gers were powered by solar panels and the filtered running water is clean.

(Solar powered gers of the nomadic community)

(Hospitable and friendly nomadic family)

(Beautifully decorated interior of the ger)

From the Nomadic Village we drove towards Kharkhorin, the ancient capital of Mongolia. It is located at the lower end of the upper valley of the Orkhon River which is included within UNESCO's World Heritage Site Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape. The location marks the easternmost foothills of the Khangai Mountains, where they meet the rolling steppe of central Mongolia. Nearby are the ruins of the ancient town of Karakorin also known as Kharkhorum or Qara Qorum which, for a short time, served as the capital of the Mongol Empire under Ogedei Khan. The excavation works of the site of the tomb of a distinguished Turkish leader are still ongoing. We spent time visiting the informative Kharakorum Museum and had hot coffee at the Museum Café later.

(Kharakorum Museum at Orkhon Valley)

(Signages to interesting places)

(The layout of the museum exhibition halls)

(A painting on the wall)

(A Mongolian calligraphy)

(Waiting for hot coffee at the Museum Cafe)

Another Kharkhorin landmark is Erdene Zuu Monastery and its famous phallic rock. The important Paleolithic archaeological site of Moiltyn-am is located near the bridge over the Orkhon River, just west of the settlement. A modern resort is south of Kharkhorin at Khujirt on the Orkhon River.

The Erdene Zuu Monastery is probably the earliest surviving Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. Located in Övörkhangai Province, approximately 2 km north-east from the center of Kharkhorin and adjacent to the ancient city of Karakorum, it is part of the Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape World Heritage Site. The monastery is affiliated with the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

It was raining quite heavily when we visited the monastery.

(The walled city of ancient Kharkhorin)

(The oldest Buddhist Monastery in Mongolia)

(Also known as Jewel Temple)

(Roaming around the compound of the temple)

(Phallic Rock of Kharkhorin)

(Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List)

(The endangered grey wolves of Mongolia)

After visiting the Kharakorum Museum and the Monastery, we drove towards Lake Ugii. It was a long tiring drive. The last part of the journey was driving off-roading across the hilly steppes in the rain. The rough terrain and the long bumpy ride took a toll on our rattled old bones and empty tummies. After innumerable hours spent on the road, we reached Ugii Khishig Ger Camp, most were already bedraggled and longed for a hot shower and a comfortable cosy bed to rest ailing backbones. The long journey with scenic beautiful views along the route had not dishevel our high spirits so far.

(Off-roading again towards Ugii Lake)

(An Ovoo in the middle of nowhere)

We were allocated a ger, the furthest from the dining hall and the bathroom but strategically located next to the water edge of Lake Ugii. The lake is famous for its bird life. About 150 types of aquatic birds gather at Lake Ugii including scarce birds like a cape barren goose, a spoonbill, a Dalmatian pelican cranes and ducks. There is a water bird research station. This bluish lake has an ait, where endangered migrating birds breed. Ramsar Convention has registered Ugii lake in the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance for being important breeding and staging area for a variety of waterfowl.

Ugii lake is also renowned for its fishing such as a perch, a Luce. It is 7km long and 5km wide. The lake is 1337m above sea level and at the deepest part it reaches up to 15m. This lake fed from Khugshin Orkhon flows into Orkhon River. The lake and Khar Balgas ruins can only be reached from the direct road linking Tsetserleg with Ulaanbaatar. It is very convenient to have boat adventure, swimming, sunbathing, horse and camel riding and hiking around the resort area.

(Arriving at Ugii Lake in the heavy rain)

(Our ger is at the edge of the Lake)

(A long walk to our ger)

(Our ger, modern and spacious)

(Cute cabins, an alternative to the gers)

It was raining heavily so we had our lunch in the Ger and stayed indoor and rested the whole afternoon. When the rain ceased a little and weather turned better, we took a stroll and had a better view of Ugii Lake.

(Spacious and comfortable with electric heater)

(Our Kembara lunch pack and Mee Maggie)

(Watching the sunset in the rain)

(The dining hall and toilets located at the far end)

Tonight was our last dinner together as a group. We had a delicious dish of baked trout, lentil soup and freshly baked bread. Later there was a short speech of appreciation from both the Mongolian guides and the Malaysian group with each presenting a traditional song.