Mongolia 2019: 03 Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex & Terelj National Park

“Each country's customs are different, just as each meadow's grass is different...” - Mongolian Proverb 

(Chinggis Khan Equestrian Statue)

Day-03: Tuesday 03/09/2019
Destination: Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex & Terelj National Park
Lodging: Tengeriin Ger Camp Terelj National Park

This morning the sun was shining brightly, the air crisp and after a good heavy breakfast we were ready to be on the road. We checked-out and boarded our bus and prepared ourselves for a very long journey to Terelj National Park where we will be spending the night in a Ger Camp in the National Park.

(Scattered community of nomadic gers and livestock)

(A good highway across the vast rugged terrain)

(A bit of off-roading for a short cut)

Having an efficient driver and a good guide was a bonus to us as our bus would be maneuvering the paved and unpaved road. The highway was surprisingly quite good but a few times, our driver will take shortcuts and drove off-roading so we would be bouncing in our seats endlessly. Regardless of the bumpy journey, we really enjoyed the natural scenery of the open field steppes, gorgeous rolling mountains and rocky hills.

(A watering hole for the livestock)

(Criss-crossing the railway lines)

(A must stop for berries from a road-side vendor)

We detoured to visit the magnificent Chinggis Khaan Statue, claimed to be the tallest equestrian statue in the world. This tallest monument in the world is part of the Genghis Khan Statue Complex. It is a 40 m tall statue of Genghis Khan on horseback, on the bank of the Tuul River, situated about 54 km east of Ulaanbaatar. The statue is symbolically pointed east towards his birthplace. The Complex is 10 m tall, with 36 columns representing the 36 khans from Genghis to Ligdan Khan. Visitors can walk to the head of the horse through its chest and neck for a panoramic view.

(The entrance to the Chinggis Khan Complex)

(The tallest equestrian statue in the world)

(A good view of the surrounding valley from the horse head)

The main statue area is surrounded by 200 gers, designed and arranged like the pattern of the horse brand marks that were used by the 13th century Mongol tribes. There is a museum with exhibitions relating to the Bronze Age and Xiongnu archaeological cultures in Mongolia. Adjacent to the museum is a tourist and recreation centre with a few souvenir shops. Around the complex, tourists could embark on activities such as camel or horseback riding, eagles and archery activities to have a taste of truly authentic Mongolian nomadic experience.

(A huge Mongolian boot in the museum)

(Beautiful vibrant bridesmaids for a photo shoot)

(Met a fellow biker from Switzerland)

Before we reached Terelj National Park we made a stop at a Shaman View Point to have a good view of the surrounding area. The first thing I noticed was a stack of stones with pieces of cloth and ribbons tied to a pole at the centre. There were people circling around it at the time. According to our local guide, the locals called it Ovoo which mean ‘magnificent bundle of shrine’. The shrine is made of sacred stone heaps and wood used as altars in Mongolian folk religious practice and in the religion of other Mongolic peoples. Ovoos are often found at the top of mountains and in high places, like mountain passes. In modern times, some of them have developed into large and elaborate structures, becoming more like temples than simple altars. They serve mainly as sites for the worship of Heaven and lesser gods led by shamans and elders, but also for Buddhist ceremonies. For the locals, when traveling, it has become a custom to stop and circle an ovoo three times, moving clockwise, in order to have a safer journey.

(Dusty road leading to the viewpoint)

(A strong Russian 4x4 vehicle for the rugged terrain)

(An Ovoo shrine at the viewpoint)

(An elegant golden eagle)

(The view of Tuul River from the viewpoint)

(A photo opportunity by the Tuul River)

From the view point we crossed the Tuul River after paying the entrance fee to enter the Terelj National Park. It is a well-known National Park among other national parks of Mongolia. The Terelj tourist zone has a number of tourist camps. Located about 37 km from Ulaanbaatar, most of the tourist camps and tourist attractions are before the settlement of Terelj, which features small shops and restaurants. A small southern portion of the park is developed for tourists, with restaurants, souvenir shops, horses and camels for rent, eagles and archery activities and clusters of Tourist Ger Camps.

(The entrance tickets to Terelj National Park)

(Crossing the Tuul River into the National Park)

(Entering Terelj National Park)

(Beautiful colours of Autumn)

However, most part of the park is undeveloped and difficult to access. Attractions include Khagiin Khar Lake, a 20 m deep glacial lake 80 km upstream from the tourist camps, and Yestii Hot Water Springs, natural hot springs 18 km further upstream. The park also has a Buddhist monastery that is open to visitors. The park wildlife includes brown bears and over 250 species of birds. The Tuul River flows through the park. The park has many rock formations for rock climbers, and includes two famous formations named for things they resemble, Turtle Rock and the Praying Lama Rock.

(One of the many Ger Camp Resort)

(The Turtle Rock)

(The Praying Lama Rock)

We checked-in into our Ger at the Tengeriin Ger Camp, had our kembara lunch and performed our prayers. After a short rest we went to visit the Turtle Rock or ‘Melkhii Khad’ which is 24 m tall granite formation. The rock obviously bears a striking resemblance to a turtle when viewed from a certain angle. This giant rock formation with its surrounding landscape is a popular spot for photo opportunity.

(The Ger camps by the Turtle Rock)

(Horse riding activity around the Turtle Rock)

After visiting the souvenir shop nearby, we later visited the Aryabal Temple. The temple is one of the most beautiful spots in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. It is hidden in the mountains located nearby the Turtle Rock. Aryabal is believed to be a Buddhist God who listens to all the prayers of humankind and releases humankind from suffering. It was built in the shape of an elephant’s head. The number 108 is an auspicious number in Buddhism. Therefore the stairs leading to the temple consist of 108 steps and symbolizes the elephant’s elongated trunk. Moreover, signs with 144 Buddhist teachings, written in English and Mongolian, lined the sides of the path to the temple. The temple style is more Tibetan styled like white square shaped and white colored main building and porcelain roofs decorated with Buddhist and religious signs. The decoration at the temple houses depicts paradise and hell. Aryabal Temple belongs to the Kalachakra sect of Buddhism, which was built by Mongolian and Tibetan artists. Buddhist monks from Manzushir monastery came to this temple to meditate.

(A small entrance fee to Aryabal Temple)

(The steep stairs of Aryabal Temple)

(The 108 steps to the top)

(Aryabal Temple meditation hall)

(Paintings on the rocks)

It was a challenging effort to trek to Aryapala. This tiny and out-of-reach Buddhist temple is tucked between a rocky mountainside and looking out at the entire park. You have to cross the ‘Bridge to Heaven’, a long swinging suspension bridge, and trek up the 108 steep steps to reach the temple. You would be rewarded for your effort when you look down and see the fascinating view from the top.

(Our lodging for tonight)

(A comfortable 3-bed ger)

(Hot stove in the middle of the ger)

After sunset, we rushed to have hot shower in the communal bathroom. If you are unlucky you have to shower in the icy cold water when the hot water ran out. Dinner was served in a larger ger, converted into a comfy warm dining hall.

(Vegetarian Pizza and pumpkin soup for dinner)

(Delicious blue berry cupcake for dessert)

The weather had dropped from 27°C in the afternoon to 10°C at night. We were lucky to have electric heater in our ger, the one and only in the camp, to the envy of others. The rest had to burn wood in the traditional heater placed at the centre of the ger to keep warm.

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