A traveller's reflection: Afghan 10: The legacy of the Mujahideens in Herat...

"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Then quit. There's no point in being a damn fool about it..." - W. C. Fields

(With the Mujahideens at the Jihad Museum)

Day 10: 13 October 2024 (Sunday)
Route: HERAT TOUR
Hotel: Sadaf International Hotel, Herat

This morning, before our tour of Herat City, we went to one of the many tailors shops at the Herat Bazaar to custom-made kurtas for the men. We bought a few pieces of material to make abaya for me too.

(Pleasant atmosphere at the spacious lobby)

(The view from the 7th floor)

(International flags at 4-star hotel dining hall)

(A variety of Afghan dishes at the buffet spread)

(All visitors are subjected to strict security checks)

Our first visit today is to Herat Central Blue Mosque It is probably the most beautiful example of Islamic architecture in all of Afghanistan, the Great Mosque of Herat’s nearly six-century history has been almost as tumultuous as that of the country. Both mosque and nation make evident Afghans’ resilience and determination to overcome challenges and rise again. Construction of the mosque began in 1200, but the building fell into ruin only two decades later, after Genghis Khan conquered and pillaged the region.

(Built in the 12th century by the Ghurid rulers)

(Bright blue minarets adorned with intricate tile work)

(Four iwans and a large central dome above the prayer hall)

(A quick breakfast before work starts)

(Arcaded walls around a central courtyard)

(Beautiful Islamic architecture and Afghan cultural heritage)

(Vickers Terni 1918 Spezia Canone)

It has been rebuilt, destroyed, and restored many times since, and each new effort has built upon what came before. The structure was damaged during the Anglo-Afghan wars of the early twentieth century, and 1943 brought a major overhaul in which a tile workshop was created onsite, an ongoing contribution to the magnificent mosaic that adorns this house of worship. The mosque is also known for its historical significance as it served as a center for religious and cultural activities during the Timurid dynasty. It has also been used as a center for education, including the study of Islamic law and theology. The mosque is still in use today and is open to visitors. We visited the restoration sites and witnessed the laborious efforts to reconstruct and restore the damaged facade.

(Reconstruction and restoration of the damaged facade)

(Specialists preserving the nearly 800-year history)

(Preserving the integrity and beauty of the historical mosque)

We drove to Malan Bridge also called Pul-i-Malan, a two-lane arched bridge over the Hari River, connecting Injil District with Guzara District. It was built around 1110 AD. The bridge is located 12 km south of Herat's old city. It is currently made up of 22 arches and has survived several floods that have washed away other bridges crossing the Hari river.

(A historic arch bridge over the Hari River)

(Originally had 17 arches, but now it features 22 arches)

(Water from the dried-up river use to wash tuk-tuk and cars)

We visited Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Shrine, another important part of the surviving architectural heritage in Herat. It is the mausoleum complex of Khwaja Abdulla Ansari in Gozargah, which dates from the Timurid period. The complex today comprises the enclosure of Ansari’s grave, a 16th century structure that retains some fine Timurid tilework, and is where the unique black marble Haft Qalam sarcophagus, dating from the reign of Sultan Husain Baiqara is situated. Other surviving parts of the complex are the late 15th century AD Zarnegar pavilion, whose interior has fine painted decoration on plaster, and a 17th century AD Namakdan, a decagonal building with vaulted balconies, overlooking the Timurid garden.

(The Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Mausoleum Complex)

(The green enclosure houses the tomb of renowned Sufi mystic)

(Listening to an elderly narrating the history)

Jihad Museum is created by Ismail Khan, a politician and former Mujahideen fighter. He spent vast amounts of his own fortune to create the Jihad Museum along with many others in Herat. They believed the museum was necessary to educate the next generation about the uprising against the Soviet Union. Constructed in 2010, the museum is filled with paraphernalia from the insurrection and more notably, dioramas depicting the violence. The museum also hosts a collection of weapons. Outside of the museum, the collection also has Russian helicopters and fighter jets, surrounded by a well kept garden on the grounds.

(Beautiful rose garden and fountains surrounding the Jihad Museum)

(A helicopter and a light rocket launcher)

(The exhibition hall displaying a collection of weapons)

(Soviet weapons used during the war)

(A memorial to the mujahideen heroes who fought the Soviets)

(Diorama - Watching the stage of battle)

(Dioramas depicting the violence of war)

(Reflecting on the events of war)

(A fallen soldier is not defeated)

At noon, we had chicken briyani lunch at Mazar Briyani Restaurant located near our hotel. We performed our prayers in the hotel then went out again to visit to Khawaja Ghaltan Shrine.

(A normal portion for an Afghan)

Khawaja Ghaltan Shrine is small shrine located on Roodaki Highway. It is famous and well known amongst the locals. It is most famous for making a wish. There is a giant tree with a tombstone of Khawaja Ghaltan underneath. Near the shrine, on a flat ground, people lie down and make a wish, cover their eyes and recite verses of the quran, and roll unaided on their back. This is quite an extraordinary phenomenon we ever saw.

(The Khawaja Ghaltan Shrine)

(Visitors come here to make a wish)

(A lie down and roll ritual is in progress)

Our last stop was the Herat Bazaar. It was a key stop along the Silk Road. Herat's bazaar thrived with the exchange of goods, ideas, and cultures among traders from Asia, Europe, and Africa. The bazaar is a labyrinth of lanes lined with shops that offer a myriad of items, from traditional Afghan rugs to intricate glassware and precious saffron. We bought spices, dried fruits, safron tea and local sweets.

(Children playing on an abandon Russian tank in Herat)

(The busy streets at Herat Bazaar)

(A bustling center of traditional market place)

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at Charfasl Ice-cream parlor. We tried Safron and cocoa flavored syiriaq ice-cream but I still prefer the Sweet Caramel syiriaq.