A traveller's reflection: Iraq Day 07: Karbala

“To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world...” - Freya Stark

(A painting at Salman al-Farsi Mosque)

Day 07: 19 Dec 2023 (Tuesday)
Route: Karbala - Baghdad
Distance: 135 km
Hotel: Hotel Mansour, Baghdad

Early this morning we brought down our luggage at the lobby. After breakfast we boarded the bus and left Karbala for Baghdad, the capital city of Iraq. We visited many attractions along the way.

Our first stop was at the Mosque Complex of Salman al-Farsi, a historic mosque located in the city of Salman Pak, Al-Mada'in district. It contains the purported tomb of Salman al-Farsi and several other syuhada'. It is historically a Sunni Mosque, however, at some point of time the mosque was given to the Shi'ite managements. Salman al-Farsi's mosque and shrine consist of three buildings, one of which being the main building that includes Salman Farsi's tomb and the mosque. The second building, is the mausoleum of Huzaifah ibn Al Yaman and the third building contains the shrine of Jabir ibn Abd Allah and Tahir ibn Muhammad Al-Baqir.

(A group photo Salman al-Farisi Mosque)

Makam Salman Al Farisi

Salman al-Farisi was a Persian companion of prophet Muhammad. Salman was born with the name Rouzbeh Khoshnudan in the city of Kazerun in Fars Province, or Isfahan in Isfahan Province. He was raised as a Zoroastrian in the Sasanian Empire, then was attracted to Christianity, and then converted to Islam after meeting prophet Muhammad in the city of Yathrib where he joined the Battle of the Trench. He was appointed as the governor of Al-Mada'in. He was a follower Sayyidina Ali after the death of the prophet. Abu Hurairah is said to have referred to Salman as "Abu al-Kitabayn", the father of the two books; the Bible and the Quran. Ali is said to have referred to him as "Luqman al-Hakeem", Luqman the wise, a reference to a wise man mentioned in the Quran. The mausoleum of Salman al-Farsi, is located under the central dome. The grave and sarcophagus itself, is under a Zarih.

(The mosque is well visited because of the sacred tombs)

(Salman was born and named Rouzbeh Khoshnudan)

(Also know as Abu Al Kitabain or the father of the two books)

Makam Huzaifah Al Yamani

Huzaifah ibn al-Yamani was one of the most famous companions of prophet Muhammad. Huzaifah participated in all the military engagements except for the Battle of Badar. He participated in the Battle of Uhud with his father. He is "sohib As-Sir" or the secret keeper of the prophet causing many names of hypocrites to be in his hands. All this is due to the trust given to him by the Prophet.

(The Keeper of the Secret)

(The bodies of Jabir and Syed Ali Al Tahir were transferred to new tombs)

Makam Abdullah bin Jabir and Makam Syed Tahir Bin Muhamad Bakir

Jabir ibn ʿAbd Allah al-Ansari was born in Yathrib now known as Medina 15 years before the Hijra. He belonged to a poor family. He is said to have accepted Islam when he was about seven. Also, he is recognised as the Sahabat with the most count of hadith relating to Hajj. His participation in the Battle of Badr is questioned by some historians; he is known to have fought in 19 battles under command of prophet Muhammad and was a trusted Sahabi. He was present during the conquest of Mecca. The bodies of Huzaifah Al Yamani and Abdullah bin Jabir have been brought and buried in a new grave not far from the grave of Salman al-Farsi. Makam Syed Tahir Bin Muhamad Bakir Bin Ali Zainal Abidin Bin Saidina Ali, a descendant of Nabi Muhammad, is in the same chamber as Abdullah bin Jabir.

(Descriptions of the two tombs)

( He was intelligent, quick-witted, and able to keep secrets)

(Two tombs in one chamber)

Tak I Kisra

From Salman Al-Farsi Mosque we drove a short distance away to visit an ancient monument of Tak I Kisra. Tak I Kisra is the remains of a Sasanian-era Persian monument, dated to the c. 3rd to 6th-centuries, which is sometimes called the Arch of Ctesiphon. It is located near the modern town of Salman Pak, Iraq. It was the facade of the main palace in Ctesiphon, and is the only visible remaining structure of the ancient capital city. The archway is considered a landmark in the history of architecture, and is the second largest single-span vault of unreinforced brickwork in the world after Gavmishan Bridge.

(The remains of a Sasanian era Persian monument)

(The signage at the locked gate)

(Sometimes called the Arch of Ctesiphon)

(The only visible remaining structure of the ancient capital city)

Lunch was at Khan Mandy Restaurant, a Yamani restaurant. The Manager of the restaurant used to work and stay in Malaysia. He has a Malaysian wife from Melaka. After lunch we went to visit the Mausoleum of Abdul-Qadir Gilani located in the city of Baghdad.

(The restaurant is preparing for the Christmas celebration)

(A large portion of Mutton Biryani Mandy for two)

Mausoleum of Abdul-Qadir Gilani

His real name is al-Sheikh Abu Muhammad 'Abd al-Qadir bin Abu Soleh al-Jili. He was born in the year 470 Hijrah in the state of Jilan. He belongs to the Hanbali sect. His famous madrasah/ribat is in Baghdad. Mausoleum of Abdul-Qadir Gilani is also known as Al-Ḥaḍrat Al-Qādiriyyah in Arabic. It is an Islamic religious complex dedicated to Abdul Qadir Gilani, the founder of the Qadiriyya Sufi order, located in Baghdad. Its surrounding square is named Kilani Square.

(Abdul Qadir Gilani Complex)

(Beautiful internal decorations)

(The main prayer hall)

The complex consists of the mosque, mausoleum, and the library known as Qadiriyya Library, which houses rare old works related to Islamic Studies. His son, Abdul Razzaq Gilani, is also buried there. The complex was built near the Bāb Ash-Sheikh in Al-Rusafah, on the east bank of the Tigris. Al-Rusafah also contains the mosque of the founder of the Hanbali school of thought, Imam Ahmad ibn Hanbal.

(Abdul Qadir Gilani family tree)

(Abdul Qadir Gilani tomb)

(The tomb inside the chamber, up close)

We had to rush back to the hotel for solat Asar/Zohor because it was already late in the evening. After solat Maghrib/Isya, the bus took us to Baghdad Mall where we bought a pair of jackets and a few t-shirts. Dinner was at the food court on the upper floor.