A traveller's reflection: Iraq Day 05: Karbala - Najaf

“Blessed are the curious for they shall have adventures...” - Lovelle Drachman

(The poster of Sayyidina Hussein)

Day 05: 17 Dec 2023 (Sunday)
Route: Karbala - Kufa - Najaf - Karbala
Distance: 250 km
Hotel: Hotel Atta Al-warith, Karbala

Buffet breakfast was at the hotel restaurant at level 6. By 7.00 am we boarded the bus and headed towards Najaf and later Kufa, another two holy cities in Iraq

A. Route: Karbala - Najaf

Najaf or An-Najaf al-Ashraf, is a city in central Iraq about 160 km south of Baghdad. Najaf is considered sacred by Shi'ah Muslims. Najaf is renowned as the site of the burial place of Prophet Muhammad's son in law and cousin, Sayyidina Ali ibn Abi Talib. The city is now a center of pilgrimage throughout the Shi'ite Islamic world. It is estimated that only Mecca and Medina receive more Muslim pilgrims. In Najaf we visited the Necropolis Wadi-al-Salaam, Makam Nabi Hud and Salleh and Masjid and Makam Sayyidina Ali.

(Service stations known as mawkibs line the streets)

(Visitors from all over the world converging into Najaf)

Necropolis Wadi-al-Salaam

Wadi-al-Salaam or 'Valley of Peace' is an Islamic cemetery, located in the holy city of Najaf. It is the largest cemetery in the world. The cemetery covers 1,485.5 acres and contains more than 6 million bodies. It also attracts millions of pilgrims annually. The cemetery is located near the shrine of Saiyyidina Ali ibn Abi Talib, the first Shi’ah Imam, as well as the fourth Sunni Caliph. Burial at the cemetery means being placed in one of many catacombs. Each crypt can hold up to 50 bodies.

(The layout of Wadi as-Salaam)

Makam Nabi Hud and Nabi Salleh

Among the prophets, kings and sultans buried in this cemetery are Prophet Hud, Prophet Saleh and Ayatullah Sayyid Muhammad Baqir al-Sadr, as well as the last caliph in the Khulafa Ar-Rasyidin dynasty, Sayyidina Ali Ibn Abi Talib.

(A simple shed covering the tombs of Nabi Hud and Salleh)

(Up close to the tombs)

(Visitors paying their tributes to the anbiya')

Makam Sayyidina Ali ibn Abi Talib

A short walking distance is the gold-domed mosque of Imam Ali bin Abi Talib named after the slain cousin and son-in-law of prophet Muhammad. The place has been revered by the world’s 120 million Shi'ite Muslims as a place of pilgrimage for centuries. The Sayyidina Ali Mosque is breathtaking. There is one large central dome which stands out of a square shaped ornate structure at the two sides of which are two minarets. The predominant color of' the exterior is bright shining gold and the entire exterior of the mausoleum is inlaid with a mosaic pattern of light powder blue, white marble and gold.

According to history, the mosque was built in 977 in Najaf, a city regarded by Shi'ite Muslims as the faith’s third holiest in the world after Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia. It is said that the family of Sayyidina Ali buried his body secretly in Najaf soon after his death in 661. His burial place stayed a secret until the 8th century.

(Each year, millions of pilgrims visit Najaf to pay tribute to Imam Ali)

(The mosque is designed in the classical Safavid Persian style)

(One of the entrances into the tomb)

(A number of suicide bomb incidents occurred at this mosque)

His tomb was said to have been burned and rebuilt. The mosque sits atop Ali’s tomb. Islam has been divided into the orthodox Sunni and minority Shi'ite sects since shortly after the death of the Prophet Muhammad. Sunnis accepted Sayyidina Abu Bakar, a respected contemporary of the prophet, to lead what was then an international political as well as spiritual empire. A small group, the “shi’at Ali,” or party of Ali, followed the much younger Ali, prophet Muhammad’s son-in-law.

(The halls are ornamented with an array of mirror mosaics)

(Shi'ah pilgrims paying tribute to Imam Ali)

(Notable renovations aimed to enhance beauty and grandeur)

(Contains candelabra of gold and silver, large and small)

B. Route: Najaf - Kufa

Kufa is a city in Iraq. It is located 10 km northeast of Najaf and 170 km south of Baghdad. Along with Karbala and Najaf, Kufa is one of the three most important cities in Iraq for Shi'ites. In the era of Caliph Saiyyidina Ali, the administrative center was moved from Madinah Al-Munawarah to Kufa. This is where Saiyyidina Ali died from the cut of Ibnu Muljam's sword. The tomb of Sayyidina Ali bin Abi Talib is believed to be in Najaf.

(Metal Sculpture of Zulfiqar Sword of Ali)

The House of Sayyidina Ali

We visited the house of Sayyidina Ali which is located near to the Great Mosque of Kufa. Sayyidina Ali was a humble man with simple life. He avoided any display of luxury. Even when he was the Khalifah, he lived in this ordinary house. The house consists of several rooms and a hall. We could view the place where Sayyidina Ali was bathed and kafan and the water well in the house. According to Ibn Kathir, after Sayyidina Ali died, his two sons, Hassan and Hussein, bathed his body with the help of Abdullah bin Ja'far. Then his body was prayed by his eldest son, Hassan. Sayyidina Hassan recited takbir nine times, some mentioned 4 times. His remains were buried in Darul Imarah in Kufah, because there were fears that the Khawarij would destroy his tomb.

(The simple house of Sayyidina Ali)

(Washing and shrouding chamber of Sayyidina Ali)

(Washing chamber and the well in Ali's house)

The Great Mosque of Kufa

The Great Mosque of Kufa, is located near Sayyidina Ali’s house. Kufa Mosque is one of the earliest surviving mosques in the world. The mosque, built in the 7th century, was home to Sayyidina Ali ibn Abi Talib. The mosque has been significantly rebuilt and restored multiple times in its history.

(Masjid Kufa view from Sayyidina Ali's house)

Sayyidina Ali was assassinated at the mimbar in the Grand Mosque of Kufa in 661 on a Friday, the 17th of Ramadhan. Three assassins went to the mosque just before the break of dawn when Sayyidina Ali was about to pray. The spot where Sayyidina Ali was assassinated is now enclosed in a silver gilded metal zarih in the Great Mosque of Kufa.

The family members of the first Shi'ite imams and their early supporters were buried within the mosque inclusive of the shrine of Muslim ibn Aqeel, his companion Hani ibn Urwa, and the revolutionary, Al-Mukhtar. We performed our jamak prayers before we went to visit historical Makams in the mosque.

(One of the earliest surviving mosque in the world)

(The interior is surrounded with verses of the Quran

(The golden dome is positioned above the tombs)

(The interior decorations of Masjid Kufa)

(The mimbar where Sayyidina Ali was stabbed)

(Makam Nabi Noh next to the mimbar)

Makam Muslim ibn ‘Aqeel

Muslim ibn Aqeel al-Hashimi was a relative of prophet Muhammad. Muslim was the cousin of Sayyidina Hussein. Muslim ibn ‘Aqeel was the first Shaheed in the War of Karbala. He was sent by Sayyidina Hussein to Kufa to assess the situation but his caravan was intercepted and massacred by the Umayyad forces in October 680 in Karbala, near Kufa. Muslim is revered in Shi’ah for his bravery and moral uprightness. His shrine in Kufa is a destination for Shi’ah pilgrims.

(Makam Muslim ibn 'Aqeel)

(View inside the chamber)

Makam Hani bin Urwah

Hani bin ʿUrwa al-Muradi was a Yemeni chief of Kufa who lost his life during the attempt made by Sayyidina Hussein to seize power. He assisted Muslim ibn ‘Aqeel during latter's revolt against Umayyads, and was killed by the governor of Kufa. Hani was buried near Dar al-Imara of Kufa. Today his shrine is connected to the Mosque of Kufa and is to the north of the grave of Muslim bin 'Aqeel.

(Makam Hani bin Urwah)

Makam Sheikh Mukhtar Al Saqafi

Following the death of Sayyidina Hussein ibn Ali, in the Battle of Karbala in 680, Sheikh Mukhtar Al-Saqafi allied with the rival caliph Abd Allah ibn al-Zubayr in Mecca, but the alliance was short-lived. Mukhtar returned and took over Kufa in October 685, after expelling its Zubayrid governor, and later ordered the execution of those involved in the killing of Sayyidina Hussein. Hostile relations with Ibn al-Zubayr ultimately led to Mukhtar's death by the forces of the Zubayrid governor of Basrah, following a four-month siege. Although Mukhtar was defeated, his movement would have far-reaching consequences. After his death, his followers formed a radical Shi'ah sect, later known as the Kaysanites, who developed several novel doctrines and influenced later Shi'ah ideology.

(Makam Sheikh Mukhtar Al-Saqafi)

From Masjid Kufa we went to Restaurant Mandi Sanaa Yemen to have a late lunch of delicious mutton biryani mandy.

(Restaurant Mandi Sanaa Yemen)

(Mutton biryani mandy for lunch)

About 10 minutes’ drive from The Great Mosque of Kufa is Al-Sahlah Mosque, one of the primary significant mosques in Kufa.

Al-Sahlah Mosque

The mosque is of great importance to Shi’ah Muslims, and it is believed that the mosque was initially established in Kufa as a neighborhood mosque for the followers of Ali, the early members of the Shi’ah. The mosque is also said to be the future home of the Twelfth Shi'ah Imam, Hujjat-Allah al-Mahdi.

(Beautiful sunset over Masjid al-Sahlah

(One of the most significant mosques in the city of Kufa)

(The interior of Masjid Al-Sahlah)

(The Muslimat prayer hall)

Every Prophet is said to have established prayers within this mosque. Among others we visited the followings historical places:

(Makam Nabi Khidir)

(Mimbar Nabi Khidir)

(Mimbar Imam Mahadi)

(Makam Nabi Idris)

(Nabi Ibrahim's house)

(Mimbar Ambiya')

C. Route: Kufa – Kifli

It was already dark when we left Al-Sahlah Mosque and headed toward the town of Kifli. Kifli is a town south of Baghdad exactly on the banks of the Euphrates River. In this small town we visited the Makam of Prophet Zulkifli.

Makam Nabi Zulkifli

The tomb of Nabi Zulkifli or the Jews biblical prophet Ezekiel is located in Al Kifli in Iraq. Today it forms part of the Al-Nukhailah Mosque complex. For the Jews, it is the oldest and most important Jewish religious site in Iraq.The complex is located between the cities of Najaf and Hillah. Initially this makam was built as a place to honor a Jewish prophet. The authorities redeveloped the tomb complex and converted the old synagogue courtyard into a Muslim prayer area. Some Jewish inscriptions from the tomb chamber were removed and replaced with Quranic verses.

(The Al-Nukhailah Mosque complex)

(The oldest and most important Jewish religious site in Iraq)

(The Zulkifli Mosque Complex)

(Mimbar and makam where Sayyidina Ali performed his prayers)

(Reciting the salam and prayers to Nabi Zulkifli)

(A small entrance to the chamber of Makam Nabi Zulkifli)

D. Route: Kifli - Hillah

Our last visit was to Makam Nabi Ayub in the city of Hillah, the provincial capital. Makam of Prophet Ayub lies on the Shatt al-Hilla, which is a branch of the Euphrates River.

Makam Nabi Ayub

Prophet Ayub is also known as Job in the bible. It is said that this is the place where Allah answered the prayer of prophet Ayub, peace be upon him, where Allah brought water out of the earth in the form of two wells, one large well and another one smaller than the first. Allah commanded His Prophet to wash and drink from its water, and it was the way for his recovery from his skin disease, which he was suffering from for decades. Apart from Iraq, Prophet Ayub also has a shrine in Syria and Oman.