A traveller's reflection: Iraq Day 04: Basrah - Marshes al-Chibayish

“Two roads diverged in a wood and I took the one less traveled, and that has made all the difference...” - Robert Frost

(A primitive reed hut at Marshes of Chibayish)

Day 04: 16 Dec 2023 (Saturday)
Route: Basrah - Nasiriyah - Marshes Al Chibayish - Karbala
Distance: 700 km
Hotel: Hotel Atta Ai-warith, Karbala

We set our alarm at 5.00 am. By 6.00 am all bags were gathered at the lobby. We had early breakfast at the hotel restaurant and by 7. 30 am, checked-out and boarded the bus.

(My last bottle of kicap for breakfast)

A. Route: Basrah - Marshes Al Chibayish

The day was cloudy and the weather was quite chilly. All the way, it was foggy and at certain stretches the visibility was near zero. Today we headed north towards Karbala and made several stops along the route. The road from Basrah to Chibayish was predominantly flat and dusty with scattered small towns along the highway.

(Crossing the the many Basrah waterways)

(Busy dusty desert roads)

(A simple signage by the roadside)

(Braving the foggy and dusty route)

After driving for almost two back-breaking hours, the bus detoured to a small secluded village where people have been living primitively in reed huts deep in the marshes for centuries. But as with most ancient ways of living, times were changing. The marshes have shrunk to only 10% of their original size. And only some people remain in the villages, mostly fishermen.

(One of the many simple military checkpoints along the route)

(Fresh fruits vendors from nearby orchards)

(Children waving happily to rare foreign tourists)

(A poster of Sayyidina Hussein at a bus stop)

Marshes of Mesopotamia

Mesopotamian Marshes, also known as the Iraqi Marshes, are a wetland area located in Southern Iraq and in southwestern Iran. The marshes are primarily located on the floodplains of the Euphrates and Tigris rivers bound by the cities of Basrah, Nasiriyah, Amarah and a portion of southwestern Iran. Historically the marshlands, mainly composed of the separate but adjacent Central, Hawizeh and Hammar Marshes, used to be the largest wetland ecosystem of Western Eurasia. The unique wetland landscape is home to the Marsh people, who have developed a unique culture tightly coupled to the landscape – harvesting reeds and rice, fishing and herding water buffalo.

(Reflection of the sun on the marshes)

(Drought is drying up Iraq's Mesopotamian marshes)

(Arriving at a small marsh dwellings)

The Boat Ride in the Chibayish Marshes

Our visit to the Marsh village was a short one but the tour included a boat ride around the water village. Al-Chibayish has historically been an important hub for the Marsh Arab people and a traditional boat building center for their mashoof canoes. The marshes were actually incredibly pretty and serene. The boat ride was fun and enjoyable, as long as we ignored the unpleasant putrid smell of the marsh water.

(Abu Sawbat Heritage Boat Club)

(Fleet of boats waiting for passengers)

(Maximum of five on board the mashoof boat)

(Balancing on a narrow seat on the stern)

There were a few scattered reed huts on the riverbanks, with small kids with big smiles waving happily at the foreign tourists. It was a rare sight for them to meet Malaysian tourists like us.

(Maneuvering the boat in between the dying reed plants)

(Old and shambled reed huts, unattended and vacated)

(Visiting a small village along the river)

(A marsh family and a small reed hut)

(A carefree lone skinny water buffalo grazing on the bank)

The Martyr's Monument of Chibayish

Along the boat route, we passed by a huge silver domed structure, The Martyrs’ Monument of Chibayish. During the Iraq-Iran war (1980-1988) many Shi’ah Iraqis, including Marsh Arabs, faced state repression based on suspicion of supporting the Islamic revolution or for having links with Iran. Many have since disappeared, while others were martyred under torture or execution. The Chibayish Martyrs Monument was built to honour the many Marsh Arabs that were executed by Saddam’s Baath party at the end of the Gulf War in 1991. The graves that do not carry the names of the martyrs symbolize that the honoured martyrs who defended the homeland never died and were unified in their sacrifice.

(At the end of the route before turning back)

(A huge silver dome of The Chibayish Martyrs Monument)

Ikan Bakar Lunch in a Reed Hut

After the boat ride, we had lunch in a large beautifully decorated reed hut. We were served grilled local fish with rice, bread and salad. The reed hut architecture plays an important role in the culture of the marsh Arabs. It captures the lifestyle and traditions of the region.

Often called the ‘mudhif’, it is a unique local meeting place constructed entirely of reeds, straw and other natural materials. The building process has not changed greatly over time.

(A meeting place cum guest house for musafir))

(Ready to have our lunch served)

(Grilled fish with tomato rice for lunch)

There were basic amenities in the village such as toilets and washrooms. Fresh water was brought in by water tankers as the saltish marsh water was muddy and inconsumable. After lunch we performed out jamak prayers in one of the huts before we continued our journey to Karbala.

B. Route: Marshes Al Chibayish - Karbala

From the Marshes of Chibayish we passed through the town of Nasiriyah. Nasiriyah is a city on the lower Euphrates where the Ziggurats, the ruins of the ancient city of Ur is located. Ur is believed to be the birthplace of Nabi Ibrahim. Ziggurat is a type of massive structure built in ancient Mesopotamia. It has the form of a terraced compound of successively receding storeys. The Sumerians believed that the gods lived in the temple at the top of the ziggurats, so only priests and other highly respected individuals could enter. We were quite disappointed to miss visiting the Ziggurats and the ruins city of Ur.

(Passing through the town of Nairiyah)

(Patriotic paintings on the wall in Nasiriyah)

(The symbolic paintings and graffiti depict defiance)

We stopped for comfort break and refuelling at one R&R off Nasiriyah and had our hot Nescafé on the bus while others had chai in the restaurant. The 400 km journey to Karbala was monotonous and tiring. We passed through many military checkpoints, where our passports and visas were thoroughly checked while we patiently waited in the bus. Some took longer time than others.

(Unsettling numbers of road blocks)

(Military jeeps were everywhere)

Along the route, there were elections campaign posters and streets were busy with crowds. The Iraqis were headed to the polls to elect provincial councils for the first time in 10 years. The elections are a prelude to a parliamentary vote in 2025, which will test the strength of pro-Iran groups that have been raising their profile in recent years. At Babylon check-point, we saw many military vehicles heading towards Karbala. Today was the voting day for military and Monday will be for the public.

(Beautiful calm sunset over the horizon)

(Massive traffic jams towards the holy city of Karbala)

The City of Regent or Madinah as-Sayyid

Before approaching the city of Karbala, we stopped at the City of Regent or Madinah as-Sayyid located on the Baghdad-Karbala Road, 5 km from the city centre. It is a nice modern township that offers multiple services for wealthy Karbala visitors and pilgrims. The entrance to the city complex is free. The ladies had to adorn the abaya before entering the complex.

(The City of Regent in Karbala)

(The main entrance to the modern city)

(Ladies without a burqa are prohibited to enter)

(Late dinner in one of the restaurants)

(A large portion of beef kebab)

The City of Regent is owned by the Holy Hussein Shrine. There are resorts, hotels, and apartments, Wedding halls and Convention Centre for rentals. The clean beautiful streets and gardens with fountains were decorated and vibrantly lighted. A huge copper-coated monument is located in the garden. It represents the allegiance of Ghadeer Khum and the inauguration of the Commander of the Faithful. While we were there, we had Beef Kebab for dinner in the posh restaurant and later had some photo opportunities in the beautiful garden.

(Night strolling in Madinah Al-Sayyid)

(Meticulated garden with beautiful water features)

(The Allegiance of Ghadeer Khum copper monument)

The Holy City of Karbala

At Karbala city centre, there was a large crowd and everyone had to go through thorough security checks at the main entrance. No vehicles were allowed without permit. Our bus was given an exception as our hotel is located in the middle of the Bazaar. It is only a 10-minutes’ walk away to the Sayyidina Hussein Mosque Complex.

(Our lodging for three nights in Karbala)

(The Karbala Street Bazaar is opened 24 hours)

The city of Karbala is best known as the location of the Battle of Karbala in 680 CE. Karbala, alongside Najaf, are considered holy cities for Shi’ah Muslims. Tens of millions of Muslims visit the site twice a year, rivalling Mecca by the number of pilgrims annually. It is considered a thriving tourist destination for Shi’ah Muslims and the tourism industry in the city boomed after the end of Saddam Hussein's rule. Some religious tourism attractions include the mausoleums of Sayyidina Hussein, Sayyidina Abbas and other Syuhada’ located in Sayyidina Hussein’s Mosque. The martyrdom of Hussein ibn Ali is commemorated annually by millions of Muslims. Up to 8 million pilgrims visit the city to observe Ashura, the tenth day of the month of Muharram, which marks the anniversary of Hussein's death, but the main event is the Arbaʿin, the 40th day after Ashura.

(A group briefing before we joined the crowd)

(Sayyidina Hussein Mosque is seen in the background)

After we checked-in, the group walked together to visit Makam Sayyidina Hussein, Sayyidina Abbas and the Syuhada’. The ladies had to wear loose abaya, and no make-up was allowed. At the entrance we passed through metal detectors and undergone thorough body checks. No backpacks, cameras and power-banks were allowed in the mosques. Handphones were allowed but photography had to be done discreetly.

From far we could see the magnificent mosque with golden dome and the two minarets. The mosque and the makam had been renovated and reconstructed several times. Directly beneath the golden dome, a sarcophagus of inlaid glass was constructed over the real grave of Hussein and later renovated with brass and bronze. The dome was subsequently covered with Kashi tiles from the Kashan City renowned for being the centre of the Islamic tile and ceramics industry.

(Pilgrimage of the Shi'ah - millions gather in this Iraqi city of Karbala)

(Bayn al-Haramayn is the area between the Hussein and Abbas Shrine)

(Pilgrims celebrating the martyrdom of Sayyidatina Fatimah)

Makam Sayyidina Hussein

Hussein ibn Ali ibn Abi Talib was a prominent early Islamic figure. He was a grandson of prophet Muhammad and a son of Ali ibn Abi Talib and Muhammad's daughter Fatima, as well as a younger brother of Hassan ibn Ali. He is the third Imam of Shi’ah Islam after his brother, Hassan, and before his son, Ali ibn Husayn Zayn al-Abidin. Being a grandson of the prophet, he is a member of the Ahl al-Bayt. He is also considered to be a member of the Ahl al-Kisa, and a participant in the event of Mubahala. Prophet Muhammad described him and his brother, Hassan, as the leaders of the youth of Paradise. He died in the Battle of Karbala at the hands of Umayyad soldiers.

(The grand entrance of Sayyidina Hussein Mosque)

(One of the many prayer halls)

(The entrance to the tomb of Sayyidina Hussein)

(The tomb is directly beneath the golden dome)

(The glittering chandeliers and lights of the ceilings)

(The dome was covered with Kashi tiles from the Kashan City)

(A decorative Iwan at a corridor)

Makam Sayyidina Abbas

The Al-Abbas Shrine is the mausoleum of Abbas ibn Ali, located within the Imam Hussein Mosque. Abbas was the son of Ali ibn Abi Talib and the half-brother of Sayyidina Hassan and Sayyidina Hussein. He was Hussein's flag-bearer in the Battle of Karbala and chief of his caravans. The shrine is revered by the Syi’ah Muslims who visit it every year, especially in the month of Muharram.

(The escalator from Abbas Shrine to Hussein Shrine)

(The mosque also housed the mass grave of 72 shuhada)

Sayyidina Abbas is regarded by the Shi'ah as the ultimate example of courage, chivalry, love, sincerity, and self-sacrifice. He is said to have inherited Sayyidina Ali's boldness and bravery. He defended Sayyidina Hussein until his death in the Battle of Karbala.

(The entrance to the chamber of Abbas tomb)

(A large crowd on the Muslimat viewing area)

(Sayyidina Abbas - the flag bearer in the Battle of Karbala)

As one of the most revered destination for all the Shi'ah Muslims, Hussein Mosque is opened 24 hours. We completed our visit by midnight and walked back to the hotel for a goodnight's sleep.