2008 India: 02 Kashmir - The Rhythm of the Lake...

"You do not stumble over a mountain, but you do over a stone..." - India Proverb

(A lone shikara on Dhal Lake)

Day 02: 26 December 2008
Route: New Delhi - Srinagar
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

The next morning, we boarded our domestic flight to Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. As the plane ascended over the vast plains of northern India, the landscape began to change - rugged mountains rose beneath us, their peaks dusted with snow and their valleys veiled in mist. The flight made a brief transit in Jammu and arrived in Srinagar about an hour behind schedule. When the pilot announced our descent into Srinagar, I pressed my face to the window. Below, the valley unfolded like a painting - shimmering lakes, patches of green meadows, and clusters of wooden houses with sloping roofs.

(Flying over the Himalayas)

The moment we touched down, a cool breeze greeted us, carrying with it the faint scent of pine and earth. Despite my earlier worries, a quiet sense of peace settled within me. I realised then why Kashmir is often called Paradise on Earth - it felt like a land suspended between heaven and home. After passing through several security checkpoints - each reminder of the region’s fragile peace - we were finally greeted by Mr. Farouk and Mr. Gulam, our personal guide and driver, whose warm smiles instantly put us at ease.

Nestled in the heart of the Kashmir Valley and cradled by the majestic Himalayas, Srinagar feels almost timeless - a place where beauty seems untouched by the years. Often called the “Venice of the East,” the city is best known for its tranquil Dal Lake, where colourful shikaras glide silently across glassy waters, and houseboats float gracefully beneath the snow-kissed peaks.

It was easy to understand why one of the Mughal emperors once proclaimed, “If there is paradise anywhere on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.” Standing amidst the crisp mountain air and breathtaking scenery, those words felt truer than ever.

(A neat row of the boat houses)

In Srinagar, we experienced the most memorable three-night stay on a charming houseboat anchored along the vibrant and lively Dal Lake, set against the edge of the city. The only way to move around was by shikara, the beautifully crafted wooden boats that glide gracefully across the water.

What makes Dal Lake truly enchanting is the life it sustains within its shimmering boundaries - a floating community complete with doctors, tailors, bakers, and tiny sundry shops housed in wooden structures that seem to drift with the rhythm of the lake. Around them, vegetable gardens and lotus ponds bloom gently on the water’s surface, adding bursts of colour to the serene landscape.

Dal Lake is not only celebrated for its beauty and tranquillity from dusk till dawn but also for its vibrancy during the day, alive with shikaras ferrying locals and visitors alike. Staying on the houseboat was an experience unlike any other - the serenity of the lake, the reflection of the setting sun, and the soft ripples of water created a scene so beautiful, it felt like stepping into a postcard come to life.

The three-room houseboat was beautifully furnished and equipped with a heater and warm water beds, keeping us snug through the cold Kashmiri nights. With Abdul, our personal butler and cook, attending to our every need, we were treated like royalty - a true Maharaja and Maharani experience on the lake.

Our shikara served as both transport and leisure, gliding us gently to the jetty and beyond. One of the most delightful moments was shopping from the floating markets, where local vendors paddled up to our boat, offering everything from handmade crafts and pashmina shawls to fragrant saffron and carved wooden souvenirs. It was an experience so unique, so distinctly Srinagar - where daily life flows gracefully upon the water.

(A typical water street)