2008 India: 04 Kashmir - The Meadows of Gold and Flowers...

"Life is not a continuum of pleasant choices, but of inevitable problems that call for strength..." - India Proverb

(A long ride on two stubborn ponies)

Day 04: 28 December 2008
Route: Sonamarg and Gulmarg
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

This morning, we travelled to Sonamarg, meaning “Meadow of Gold.” The name couldn’t have been more fitting. The journey followed the winding Sindh River, flanked by tall poplar trees and distant glaciers glistening under the sun. When we reached the valley, the view was spectacular - lush green meadows, icy blue streams, and towering mountains wrapped in clouds.

Sonamarg felt raw and untouched, a place where nature still reigns supreme. Horses grazed freely by the riverside, and the sound of rushing water filled the air. We took a leisurely pony ride and paused by the riverbank, letting the cool mountain breeze brush against our faces. It was one of those rare moments when silence said more than words - when beauty, in its purest form, filled the heart with quiet gratitude.

 

We hired ponies for the trip up the mountain which can lead to Thajiwas glacier. This place is a major local attraction during the summer months. During winter there are less people crowding the resort. Sonamarg is the base of a major trek that passes along several mountain lakes –Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. It is also the take off station for the drive to Ladakh across the Zojila, a major pass in the Great Himalayan Range, through which the Srinagar-Leh Road passes. But during this time of the year, the pass was closed for a few months because of heavy snow.

(A river full of ice)

Next we set out for Gulmarg, a hill station about 50 kilometres from Srinagar. The drive was scenic and soothing, winding through pine-covered slopes and charming villages where children waved cheerfully as we passed. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, and soon the landscape opened into vast meadows framed by snow-capped peaks - a sight so breathtaking that words could barely capture it.

Gulmarg is at 2650 m above sea level. The distance was covered in 2 hours. The view enroute from Tangmarg to Gulmarg is fascinating. It has one of the best ski slopes and claimed to be the highest golf course of the world with 18 holes. Gulmarg also prides itself as one of the highest lift-served ski resorts in the world with a Gondola Cable Car Lift to Apharwat top. 

The first section of the Gondola, from Gulmarg to Kongdori gives a downhill ski run of about 3 km. Known as the “Meadow of Flowers,” Gulmarg lives up to its name. In spring, it bursts with colours from wild blooms, while in winter it transforms into a white wonderland. We took the Gulmarg Gondola, one of the highest cable cars in the world, and as we rose higher, the view of the Himalayas stretched endlessly - layers upon layers of majestic beauty. Standing there, surrounded by silence and snow, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace, as though time had slowed to let us simply breathe and marvel.

 

(Scattered mountain resorts)

After the cable car ride we tried the not-so-smooth sledge ride which caused my injured back to ache again. We had a hearty, hot lunch at the Pines Resort Hotel at the top of the mountain.

Our next stop was the Hazratbal Mosque, one of the most revered sites in Srinagar. Standing gracefully on the northern shores of Dal Lake, its white marble façade shimmered under the soft sunlight, mirrored perfectly in the still waters below. The mosque holds deep spiritual significance, believed to house a sacred relic - a strand of the Prophet Muhammad’s hair - making it a place of devotion and peace for the people of Kashmir. As we stepped inside, the calm atmosphere and quiet prayers filled the air, leaving us with a sense of serenity and humility. When we visited the mosque, only the men were allowed in. After reciting the ayat kursi I stayed outside and watched the kids feeding a flock of pigeons.

Later, we explored the old city of Srinagar, where narrow lanes buzzed with life and colour. Shops overflowed with pashmina shawls, hand-carved wooden crafts, silver jewellery, and saffron - treasures that reflected the artistry and warmth of the Kashmiri people. The scent of freshly brewed Kahwa, their traditional saffron-infused tea, drifted from small tea stalls, inviting us to pause and savour the moment. 

It was a perfect way to end our holiday in Kashmir - immersed in the soul of Srinagar, where faith, beauty, and tradition intertwine so effortlessly.

 2008: 02 Jaipur, India👉