2008 Our Indian & Kashmir Holiday...

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing..." - Helen Keller

(The majestic Taj Mahal)

The economic down turn had severely damaged the tourism sector, the catastrophic Mumbai incident made matters worst. Since the Mumbai attacks, several countries have cautioned their nationals against visiting India, while others have asked to review holiday plans. There were no guarantees against repeat attacks. But this had not dampened our enthusiasm to visit India and Kashmir…

A love story

An eternal love story,

so magical

Against the blue sky,

white marble sparkles

The reflecting pool,

so mesmerizing

A symbol of love,

forever endearing…

musmun

(Taj Mahal, 31 Dec 2008)

👈 2009: Brisbane, Australia

       2008: 01 Kashmir 👉

2008 India: 01 Kashmir - A Paradise on Earth...

"Sometimes it takes sadness to know happiness, noise to appreciate silence and absence to value presence..."

(A painting on the wall)

Route: KL - Delhi - Srinagar
Date: 25 – 29 December 2008

Hotel: Hotel Yatri, New Delhi

(In the ERL - Feeling excited!)

(At KLIA for our flight to New Delhi)

Day 01: 25 December 2008

Route: KL - New Delhi

Hotel: Yatri Hotel, New Delhi

Our flight from Kuala Lumpur departed early in the evening, and the journey was calm and uneventful. Upon arriving at Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi, we were greeted by our ground tour agent, who assured us that our safety would be their top priority, especially during our visits to Jaipur, Agra, and New Delhi. As we will be be spending a few days in Kashmir first, they also briefed us on the current situation in Kashmir - the ongoing struggle for independence and the region’s political uncertainty. Though I appreciated their honesty, I couldn’t help but feel a faint unease, wondering what awaited us in that beautiful yet fragile land.

(Our hotel in New Delhi, spending a night here)

(The lobby is decorated for Christmas)

(A heavy breakfast while waiting for the airport transfer)

(At the New Delhi Airport)

(Boarding our flight to Srinagar, Kashmir)

2008 India: 02 Kashmir - The Rhythm of the Lake...

"You do not stumble over a mountain, but you do over a stone..." - India Proverb

(A lone shikara on Dhal Lake)

Day 02: 26 December 2008
Route: New Delhi - Srinagar
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

The next morning, we boarded our domestic flight to Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. As the plane ascended over the vast plains of northern India, the landscape began to change - rugged mountains rose beneath us, their peaks dusted with snow and their valleys veiled in mist. The flight made a brief transit in Jammu and arrived in Srinagar about an hour behind schedule. When the pilot announced our descent into Srinagar, I pressed my face to the window. Below, the valley unfolded like a painting - shimmering lakes, patches of green meadows, and clusters of wooden houses with sloping roofs.

(Flying over the Himalayas)

The moment we touched down, a cool breeze greeted us, carrying with it the faint scent of pine and earth. Despite my earlier worries, a quiet sense of peace settled within me. I realised then why Kashmir is often called Paradise on Earth - it felt like a land suspended between heaven and home. After passing through several security checkpoints - each reminder of the region’s fragile peace - we were finally greeted by Mr. Farouk and Mr. Gulam, our personal guide and driver, whose warm smiles instantly put us at ease.

Nestled in the heart of the Kashmir Valley and cradled by the majestic Himalayas, Srinagar feels almost timeless - a place where beauty seems untouched by the years. Often called the “Venice of the East,” the city is best known for its tranquil Dal Lake, where colourful shikaras glide silently across glassy waters, and houseboats float gracefully beneath the snow-kissed peaks.

It was easy to understand why one of the Mughal emperors once proclaimed, “If there is paradise anywhere on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.” Standing amidst the crisp mountain air and breathtaking scenery, those words felt truer than ever.

(A neat row of the boat houses)

In Srinagar, we experienced the most memorable three-night stay on a charming houseboat anchored along the vibrant and lively Dal Lake, set against the edge of the city. The only way to move around was by shikara, the beautifully crafted wooden boats that glide gracefully across the water.

What makes Dal Lake truly enchanting is the life it sustains within its shimmering boundaries - a floating community complete with doctors, tailors, bakers, and tiny sundry shops housed in wooden structures that seem to drift with the rhythm of the lake. Around them, vegetable gardens and lotus ponds bloom gently on the water’s surface, adding bursts of colour to the serene landscape.

Dal Lake is not only celebrated for its beauty and tranquillity from dusk till dawn but also for its vibrancy during the day, alive with shikaras ferrying locals and visitors alike. Staying on the houseboat was an experience unlike any other - the serenity of the lake, the reflection of the setting sun, and the soft ripples of water created a scene so beautiful, it felt like stepping into a postcard come to life.

The three-room houseboat was beautifully furnished and equipped with a heater and warm water beds, keeping us snug through the cold Kashmiri nights. With Abdul, our personal butler and cook, attending to our every need, we were treated like royalty - a true Maharaja and Maharani experience on the lake.

Our shikara served as both transport and leisure, gliding us gently to the jetty and beyond. One of the most delightful moments was shopping from the floating markets, where local vendors paddled up to our boat, offering everything from handmade crafts and pashmina shawls to fragrant saffron and carved wooden souvenirs. It was an experience so unique, so distinctly Srinagar - where daily life flows gracefully upon the water.

(A typical water street)

2008 India: 03 Kashmir - Abodes of Pleasure and Love...

"Certain things capture the eye, but pursue only those that capture the heart...." - India Proverb

(A beautiful winter garden)

Day 03: 27 December 2008
Route: The Mughal Gardens
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

We visited two of Srinagar’s famed Mughal Gardens - Nishat Bagh (Abode of Pleasure), built by Asif Khan, the brother-in-law of Emperor Jehangir in the 16th century, and Shalimar Bagh (Abode of Love), created by Jehangir himself for his beloved wife, Noor Jehan. Both gardens rest gracefully along the banks of Dal Lake, framed by the majestic Zabarwan Mountains in the background.

Designed in the classic Mughal style, the gardens are laid out in terraces with stone pathways, fountains, and canals fed by crystal-clear mountain streams. The uppermost terrace, hidden from view, was once reserved for the ladies of the royal court - a secluded haven of beauty and tranquillity. We could imagine how breathtaking these gardens must look in autumn and spring, when the leaves turn golden and the flowers burst into colour, creating a scene of pure poetry against the mountain air.

(The garden at dusk)

2008 India: 04 Kashmir - The Meadows of Gold and Flowers...

"Life is not a continuum of pleasant choices, but of inevitable problems that call for strength..." - India Proverb

(A long ride on two stubborn ponies)

Day 04: 28 December 2008
Route: Sonamarg and Gulmarg
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

This morning, we travelled to Sonamarg, meaning “Meadow of Gold.” The name couldn’t have been more fitting. The journey followed the winding Sindh River, flanked by tall poplar trees and distant glaciers glistening under the sun. When we reached the valley, the view was spectacular - lush green meadows, icy blue streams, and towering mountains wrapped in clouds.

Sonamarg felt raw and untouched, a place where nature still reigns supreme. Horses grazed freely by the riverside, and the sound of rushing water filled the air. We took a leisurely pony ride and paused by the riverbank, letting the cool mountain breeze brush against our faces. It was one of those rare moments when silence said more than words - when beauty, in its purest form, filled the heart with quiet gratitude.

 

We hired ponies for the trip up the mountain which can lead to Thajiwas glacier. This place is a major local attraction during the summer months. During winter there are less people crowding the resort. Sonamarg is the base of a major trek that passes along several mountain lakes –Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. It is also the take off station for the drive to Ladakh across the Zojila, a major pass in the Great Himalayan Range, through which the Srinagar-Leh Road passes. But during this time of the year, the pass was closed for a few months because of heavy snow.

(A river full of ice)

Next we set out for Gulmarg, a hill station about 50 kilometres from Srinagar. The drive was scenic and soothing, winding through pine-covered slopes and charming villages where children waved cheerfully as we passed. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, and soon the landscape opened into vast meadows framed by snow-capped peaks - a sight so breathtaking that words could barely capture it.

Gulmarg is at 2650 m above sea level. The distance was covered in 2 hours. The view enroute from Tangmarg to Gulmarg is fascinating. It has one of the best ski slopes and claimed to be the highest golf course of the world with 18 holes. Gulmarg also prides itself as one of the highest lift-served ski resorts in the world with a Gondola Cable Car Lift to Apharwat top. 

The first section of the Gondola, from Gulmarg to Kongdori gives a downhill ski run of about 3 km. Known as the “Meadow of Flowers,” Gulmarg lives up to its name. In spring, it bursts with colours from wild blooms, while in winter it transforms into a white wonderland. We took the Gulmarg Gondola, one of the highest cable cars in the world, and as we rose higher, the view of the Himalayas stretched endlessly - layers upon layers of majestic beauty. Standing there, surrounded by silence and snow, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace, as though time had slowed to let us simply breathe and marvel.

 

(Scattered mountain resorts)

After the cable car ride we tried the not-so-smooth sledge ride which caused my injured back to ache again. We had a hearty, hot lunch at the Pines Resort Hotel at the top of the mountain.

Our next stop was the Hazratbal Mosque, one of the most revered sites in Srinagar. Standing gracefully on the northern shores of Dal Lake, its white marble façade shimmered under the soft sunlight, mirrored perfectly in the still waters below. The mosque holds deep spiritual significance, believed to house a sacred relic - a strand of the Prophet Muhammad’s hair - making it a place of devotion and peace for the people of Kashmir. As we stepped inside, the calm atmosphere and quiet prayers filled the air, leaving us with a sense of serenity and humility. When we visited the mosque, only the men were allowed in. After reciting the ayat kursi I stayed outside and watched the kids feeding a flock of pigeons.

Later, we explored the old city of Srinagar, where narrow lanes buzzed with life and colour. Shops overflowed with pashmina shawls, hand-carved wooden crafts, silver jewellery, and saffron - treasures that reflected the artistry and warmth of the Kashmiri people. The scent of freshly brewed Kahwa, their traditional saffron-infused tea, drifted from small tea stalls, inviting us to pause and savour the moment. 

It was a perfect way to end our holiday in Kashmir - immersed in the soul of Srinagar, where faith, beauty, and tradition intertwine so effortlessly.

 2008: 02 Jaipur, India👉

2008 India: 05 Jaipur - The Majestic Allure of the Pink City...

"If you are bored with life, if you don't get up every morning with a burning desire to do things - you don't have enough goals..." - Lou Holtz

(Decorative marble walls)

Day 05: 29 December 2008

Route: Srinagar - New Delhi - Jaipur

Hotel: Maharani Hotel, Jaipur

Our bags were already packed that morning. After a hearty breakfast, we bade farewell to Abdul, the ever-cheerful caretaker of our houseboat, whose warmth and hospitality made our stay in Srinagar so memorable. The road to the airport was lined with checkpoints - six in total - each a reminder of Kashmir’s delicate peace. Our flight from Srinagar to Delhi was delayed, and due to bad weather, it bypassed Jammu entirely. By the time we landed, our driver, Mr. Santosh, had been waiting patiently for four hours.

Though it was late at night, we had already booked our hotel in Jaipur, so we began the long 265-kilometre journey without delay. Hungry and exhausted, we stopped briefly for dinner before continuing through the dense fog and icy night. Along the way, we passed a few accidents - a sobering reminder of how unpredictable travel can be. It was well past midnight when we finally reached Maharani Hotel in Jaipur, relieved but grateful for our safe arrival.

(A painting of a dancer)

Day 06: 30 December 2008
Route: Jaipur City Tour

Hotel: Maharani Hotel, Jaipur

Today we planned for a self-tour of Jaipur's attractions.

Often called the “Pink City,” Jaipur is where modernity and tradition coexist harmoniously. Within its terracotta walls, the city bursts with colour - bustling bazaars filled with silver jewellery, glass bangles, colourful puppets, and handcrafted textiles. The Palace Quarter lies at the heart of the city, encompassing the Hawa Mahal, formal gardens, and a small lake. Crowning the hill to the northwest stands Nahargarh Fort, watching over the old city like a silent guardian.

Our first visit was to the magnificent Amber Fort, a 16th-century masterpiece that once served as the capital of the Jaipur State until 1728. Perched above Maota Lake, the fort’s artistic design reflects a perfect blend of Hindu and Mughal influences. Visitors could either drive up by car or ascend the hill on the back of a decorated elephant. Inside, we explored the Jagmandir (Hall of Victory), glittering with mirrors, the Jai Mahal, and the Temple of Kali - each corner echoing with stories of royal grandeur and devotion.

(Light snacks by the roadside)

(Blending Hindu and Muslim Mughal architecture)

(Modern Art Museum)

(Elephant ride in the fort)

Maharaja City Palace

Next, we visited the Hawa Mahal, or Palace of Winds - a five-storey Baroque-like façade adorned with 953 small windows. Built so that the royal ladies could observe life on the streets below unseen, the breeze flowing through these intricate windows gives the palace its name, keeping it cool even in the heat of summer.

(The pink Hawa Mahal)

(Circular arrangement of guns)

The nearby City Palace stood as a majestic blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture, part of which now serves as a museum showcasing miniature paintings, royal costumes, manuscripts, musical instruments, and ancient weapons - offering a glimpse into Jaipur’s royal past.

(Colourful Indian puppets)

Jantar Mantar

Another highlight was the Jantar Mantar, the 18th-century astronomical observatory built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. Its massive sundials and celestial instruments - some still functional - continue to measure time and track the movement of stars with astonishing precision.

Jal Mahal

Our final stop was the Jal Mahal, or Water Palace, a Rajput-style structure set gracefully in the middle of Mansagar Lake. Though the lake dries up during the summer, the winter rains transform it into a shimmering mirror for the golden palace, surrounded by floating water hyacinths and the distant hills beyond - a fittingly tranquil end to our journey through the regal splendour of Jaipur.

(Foggy day at the Water Palace)

👈 2008: 01 Kashmir 

        2008: 03 Agra, India👉

2008 India: 06 Jaipur - The City Throbs with Life..

"What is now in the past was once in the future..." – By Ramachandra Guha

Day 06: 30 December 2008
Route: Jaipur City Tour

Hotel: Maharani Hotel, Jaipur

Today we planned for a self-tour of Jaipur's attractions.

Often called the “Pink City,” Jaipur is where modernity and tradition coexist harmoniously. Within its terracotta walls, the city bursts with colour - bustling bazaars filled with silver jewellery, glass bangles, colourful puppets, and handcrafted textiles. The Palace Quarter lies at the heart of the city, encompassing the Hawa Mahal, formal gardens, and a small lake. Crowning the hill to the northwest stands Nahargarh Fort, watching over the old city like a silent guardian.

Our first visit was to the magnificent Amber Fort, a 16th-century masterpiece that once served as the capital of the Jaipur State until 1728. Perched above Maota Lake, the fort’s artistic design reflects a perfect blend of Hindu and Mughal influences. Visitors could either drive up by car or ascend the hill on the back of a decorated elephant. Inside, we explored the Jagmandir (Hall of Victory), glittering with mirrors, the Jai Mahal, and the Temple of Kali - each corner echoing with stories of royal grandeur and devotion.

(Light snacks by the roadside)

(Blending Hindu and Muslim Mughal architecture)

(Modern Art Museum)

(Elephant ride in the fort)

Maharaja City Palace

Next, we visited the Hawa Mahal, or Palace of Winds - a five-storey Baroque-like façade adorned with 953 small windows. Built so that the royal ladies could observe life on the streets below unseen, the breeze flowing through these intricate windows gives the palace its name, keeping it cool even in the heat of summer.

(The pink Hawa Mahal)

(Circular arrangement of guns)

The nearby City Palace stood as a majestic blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture, part of which now serves as a museum showcasing miniature paintings, royal costumes, manuscripts, musical instruments, and ancient weapons - offering a glimpse into Jaipur’s royal past.

(Colourful Indian puppets)

Jantar Mantar

Another highlight was the Jantar Mantar, the 18th-century astronomical observatory built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. Its massive sundials and celestial instruments - some still functional - continue to measure time and track the movement of stars with astonishing precision.

Jal Mahal

Our final stop was the Jal Mahal, or Water Palace, a Rajput-style structure set gracefully in the middle of Mansagar Lake. Though the lake dries up during the summer, the winter rains transform it into a shimmering mirror for the golden palace, surrounded by floating water hyacinths and the distant hills beyond - a fittingly tranquil end to our journey through the regal splendour of Jaipur.

(Foggy day at the Water Palace)

2008 India: 07 Agra - Where Love Never Dies...

"You'll miss the best things if you keep your eyes shut..." - Dr Seuss

(A long way to go)

Day 07: 31 December 2008
Route: Jaipur - Agra

Hotel: Pushp Villa, Agra

Morning light filtered softly through our window as we left for Agra, the city of eternal love. The road stretched ahead — 235 kilometres of open plains and scattered villages - carrying us toward the dream of marble that has enchanted the world for centuries.

Along the way, we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, Emperor Akbar’s red sandstone capital. Built in triumph and later abandoned in silence, its empty courtyards still whisper stories of grandeur. Walking through its carved archways, I imagined the hum of royal life - the voices of courtiers, the rustle of silks, the echo of prayers rising with the desert wind.

(The Royal complex of Fatehpur Sikri)

The city felt like a living poem - its architecture a graceful blend of Hindu, Jain, and Islamic influences, reflecting Akbar’s vision of unity. Standing before the towering Buland Darwaza and the peaceful tomb of Salim Chishti, I felt an almost spiritual calm - as if the past still lingered gently in the air.

(Domes and arches of the building)

(The Mughal palaces)

By afternoon, we reached the Taj Mahal. No words or photographs can prepare the heart for that first sight - the marble glowing softly in the sunlight, reflected in the still pools of its gardens.

We took a local guide who spoke tenderly of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, of love so deep it transcended time. The intricate floral inlays of pietra dura, the perfect symmetry of domes and minarets, the flowing calligraphy - everything felt touched by devotion. Inside, beneath the carved marble screens, the emperor and his queen rest side by side, forever united in silence.

(The majestic Taj Mahal)

(Another beautiful palace)

Before sunset, we visited the Agra Fort, a grand citadel on the banks of the Yamuna River. Behind its red sandstone walls lies the legacy of empires - and heartbreak. From the Musamman Burj, where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son, we looked out at the Taj gleaming in the distance. I stood there imagining the emperor’s gaze - a lifetime of love distilled into that single, distant view.

(The Agra Fort)

By the time we returned to our hotel, Pushp Villa, dusk had softened the city into gold and rose. My feet were tired, but my heart was full. Agra had shown me not just monuments, but the enduring power of love — silent, eternal, and carved in stone.

👈2008: 02 Jaipur, India

     2008: 04 New Delhi, India👉

2008 India: 08 Delhi - Where History Whispers and Time Moves On

"Look at life through the windshield, not the rear view mirror..." - Byrd Baggett

(A painting of the India soldiers)

Day 08: 01 January 2009

Route: Agra - New Delhi

At dawn, as the first light kissed the marble domes of the Taj, we bid farewell to Agra - a city where love lingers in every breath of mist. The road ahead led us to Delhi, India’s restless heart - where ancient empires sleep beneath modern rhythms, and every street tells a story. Leaving behind Agra’s quiet grace, we stepped into Delhi’s pulse - alive, layered, and unafraid of time.

We reached Delhi by late morning. The city was already wide awake - a whirl of horns, colors, and motion. Because of the heavy traffic, we decided to skip Old Delhi, missing the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and Qutub Minar. A small regret tugged at me; I imagined the echoes of Shah Jahan’s court, the grandeur of the fort, the prayers floating through Jama Masjid’s vast courtyards. But travel teaches acceptance - that we cannot hold everything, only what our hearts choose to keep.

Our first stop was the India Gate, standing proud at the center of the city. Beneath its grand arch lie the names of soldiers who gave their lives in distant wars. The eternal flame of the Amar Jawan Jyoti burned softly, a quiet reminder of sacrifice and resilience. Standing there, I felt a hush - not of sadness, but of gratitude.

(The India gate)

A short drive away stood the majestic Parliament House, circular and commanding, its colonnades glowing in the afternoon sun. It seemed to stand as both monument and mirror - reflecting the story of India’s democracy, where past and future meet beneath a single dome.

(The Parliament House)

Later, we visited Gandhi Smriti, the former Birla House where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last days. The place was serene - its gardens still, its rooms filled with quiet reverence. The marble footprints marking his final walk to the prayer ground felt profoundly moving. I walked that path slowly, imagining his final moments. His presence seemed to linger - gentle, forgiving, eternal.

(Mahatma Gandhi and wife)

(Gandhi's handwriting)

👈 2008: 03 Agra, India

2008: 05 Epilogue - The Colours of India...👉

2008 India: 09 Epilogue – The Colours of India...

“The stars may be distant, but each dream is a step closer to the light...” - Indian Proverb

(Snake Charmers of Jaipur)

Day 09: 02 January 2009
Route: Delhi - KL

As the day faded, we had a simple dinner and waited at the airport for our midnight flight. From the window, Delhi shimmered in the distance - vast, complex, alive. The noise and chaos now felt comforting, almost musical, as if the city itself was saying goodbye.

Looking back, the journey through India felt like turning the pages of a living poem. Srinagar whispered of peace - its lakes mirroring the sky in stillness. Jaipur dazzled with royal splendour and desert warmth. Agra spoke in the language of love, its marble monuments glowing with emotion. And Delhi, with its layers of history and humanity, showed the strength of a nation still finding beauty in its contradictions.

As our plane soared into the clouds, India remained with me - in the scent of chai, the rhythm of temple bells, the kindness of strangers, and the timeless hum of life that never stands still. It is a country that humbles and awakens you - a place that doesn’t just show you the world, but quietly changes the way you see it.

By the time we landed in Kuala Lumpur at dawn, I carried with me more than just memories.

👈2008: 04 New Delhi, India

      2008: Abu Dhabi/Dubai, UAE 👉