2008 India: 01 Our Indian & Kashmir Holiday...

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing..." - Helen Keller

(A painting on the wall)

Day 01: 25 December 2008

Route: KL - New Delhi

Hotel: Yatri Hotel, New Delhi

The economic downturn had severely damaged the tourism sector, the catastrophic Mumbai incident made matters worse. Since the Mumbai attacks, several countries have cautioned their nationals against visiting India, while others have asked to review holiday plans. There were no guarantees against repeat attacks. But this had not dampened our enthusiasm to visit India and Kashmir…

A love story

An eternal love story,

so magical

Against the blue sky,

white marble sparkles

The reflecting pool,

so mesmerizing

A symbol of love,

forever endearing…

musmun

(Taj Mahal, 31 Dec 2008)

(On the ERL - Feeling excited!)

(At KLIA for our flight to New Delhi)

Our flight from Kuala Lumpur departed early in the evening, and the journey was calm and uneventful. Upon arriving at Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi, we were greeted by our ground tour agent, who assured us that our safety would be their top priority, especially during our visits to Jaipur, Agra, and New Delhi. 

As we will be be spending a few days in Kashmir first, he also briefed us on the current situation in Kashmir - the ongoing struggle for independence and the region’s political uncertainty. Though I appreciated their honesty, I couldn’t help but feel a faint unease, wondering what awaited us in that beautiful yet fragile land.

From the airport, the taxi took us to Hotel Yatri New Delhi where we will be staying the night. Early tomorrow morning we will be taking a domestic flight to Srinagar, Kashmir.

(Our hotel in New Delhi, spending a night here)

(The lobby is decorated for Christmas)

👈 2009: Brisbane, Australia

2008 India: 02 Kashmir - The Rhythm of the Lake...👉

2008 India: 02 Kashmir - The Rhythm of the Lake...

"Sometimes it takes sadness to know happiness, noise to appreciate silence and absence to value presence..."

(A lone shikara on Dhal Lake)

Day 02: 26 December 2008
Route: New Delhi - Srinagar
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

(A heavy breakfast while waiting for the airport transfer)

(At New Delhi International Airport)

(Boarding our flight to Srinagar, Kashmir)

The next morning, we boarded our domestic flight to Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. As the plane ascended over the vast plains of northern India, the landscape began to change - rugged mountains rose beneath us, their peaks dusted with snow and their valleys veiled in mist. The flight made a brief transit in Jammu and arrived in Srinagar about an hour behind schedule. When the pilot announced our descent into Srinagar, I pressed my face to the window. Below, the valley unfolded like a painting - shimmering lakes, patches of green meadows, and clusters of wooden houses with sloping roofs.

(Flying over the Himalayas)

The moment we touched down, a cool breeze greeted us, carrying with it the faint scent of pine and earth. Despite my earlier worries, a quiet sense of peace settled within me. I realised then why Kashmir is often called Paradise on Earth - it felt like a land suspended between heaven and home. After passing through several security checkpoints - each reminder of the region’s fragile peace - we were finally greeted by Mr. Farouk and Mr. Gulam, our personal guide and driver, whose warm smiles instantly put us at ease.

(The city of Srinagar lies in the Kashmir Valley)

(Located along the shore of Dal Lake)

Nestled in the heart of the Kashmir Valley and cradled by the majestic Himalayas, Srinagar feels almost timeless - a place where beauty seems untouched by the years. Often called the “Venice of the East,” the city is best known for its tranquil Dal Lake, where colourful shikaras glide silently across glassy waters, and houseboats float gracefully beneath the snow-kissed peaks.

It was easy to understand why one of the Mughal emperors once proclaimed, “If there is paradise anywhere on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.” Standing amidst the crisp mountain air and breathtaking scenery, those words felt truer than ever.

(The second largest metropolitan area in the Himalayas)

(A neat row of the houseboats)

In Srinagar, we experienced the most memorable three-night stay on a charming houseboat anchored along the vibrant and lively Dal Lake, set against the edge of the city. The only way to move around was by shikara, the beautifully crafted wooden boats that glide gracefully across the water.

(A typical boathouse on dal Lake)

(Rows of shikara at the jetty)

What makes Dal Lake truly enchanting is the life it sustains within its shimmering boundaries - a floating community complete with doctors, tailors, bakers, and tiny sundry shops housed in wooden structures that seem to drift with the rhythm of the lake. Around them, vegetable gardens and lotus ponds bloom gently on the water’s surface, adding bursts of colour to the serene landscape.

(A typical water street)

(Shops on water selling pashmina and cashmere)

Dal Lake is not only celebrated for its beauty and tranquillity from dusk till dawn but also for its vibrancy during the day, alive with shikaras ferrying locals and visitors alike. Staying on the houseboat was an experience unlike any other - the serenity of the lake, the reflection of the setting sun, and the soft ripples of water created a scene so beautiful, it felt like stepping into a postcard come to life.

(The sun reflection on the water)

The three-room houseboat was beautifully furnished and equipped with a heater and warm water beds, keeping us snug through the cold Kashmiri nights. With Abdul, our personal butler and cook, attending to our every need, we were treated like royalty - a true Maharaja and Maharani experience on the lake.

(The chilly December weather)

(Spacious living room)

(Lounge area for visitors)

(Waiting for our meals to be served)

Our shikara served as both transport and leisure, gliding us gently to the jetty and beyond. One of the most delightful moments was shopping from the floating markets, where local vendors paddled up to our boat, offering everything from handmade crafts and pashmina shawls to fragrant saffron and carved wooden souvenirs. It was an experience so unique, so distinctly Srinagar - where daily life flows gracefully upon the water.

(The gondola of Kashmir)

(The sunset view of Dal Lake)

👈2008 India: 01 Our Indian & Kashmir Holiday...

2008 India: 03 Kashmir - Abodes of Pleasure and Love...👉

2008 India: 03 Kashmir - Abodes of Pleasure and Love...

"Certain things capture the eye, but pursue only those that capture the heart...." - India Proverb

(A beautiful winter garden)

Day 03: 27 December 2008
Route: The Mughal Gardens
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

(Getting ready to visit the Mughal Gardens)

(Mughal Garden Nishat, the second largest in Kashmir Valley)

We visited two of Srinagar’s famed Mughal Gardens - Nishat Bagh (Abode of Pleasure), built by Asif Khan, the brother-in-law of Emperor Jehangir in the 16th century, and Shalimar Bagh (Abode of Love), created by Jehangir himself for his beloved wife, Noor Jehan. Both gardens rest gracefully along the banks of Dal Lake, framed by the majestic Zabarwan Mountains in the background.

(The Zabarwan Mountains forming the backdrop)

(The view from the upper terrace)

(The empty flower beds during winter)

(The view of Dal Lake from the terrace)

(Some buildings dating back to the Mughal period)

(Crystal clear water from the mountain)

(A small spring called Gopi Tirth)

(Water features and fountains in the garden)

(Time to go back to town centre)

Designed in the classic Mughal style, the gardens are laid out in terraces with stone pathways, fountains, and canals fed by crystal-clear mountain streams. The uppermost terrace, hidden from view, was once reserved for the ladies of the royal court - a secluded haven of beauty and tranquillity. We could imagine how breathtaking these gardens must look in autumn and spring, when the leaves turn golden and the flowers burst into colour, creating a scene of pure poetry against the mountain air.

(The sun is setting fast)

(The garden at dusk)

👈2008 India: 02 Kashmir - The Rhythm of the Lake...

2008 India: 04 Kashmir - The Meadows of Gold and Flowers...👉

2008 India: 04 Kashmir - The Meadows of Gold and Flowers...

"Life is not a continuum of pleasant choices, but of inevitable problems that call for strength..." - India Proverb

(A long ride on two stubborn ponies)

Day 04: 28 December 2008
Route: Sonamarg and Gulmarg
Hotel: The Khyber Boathouse

Today we travelled to Sonamarg, meaning “Meadow of Gold”. The name couldn’t have been more fitting. The journey followed the winding Sindh River, flanked by tall poplar trees and distant glaciers glistening under the sun. When we reached the valley, the view was spectacular - lush green meadows, icy blue streams, and towering mountains wrapped in clouds.

(Breathtaking scenery along the route to Sonamarg)

(The entire drive is beautiful)

(Fruit sellers along the highway)

(A family waiting for transport in a small village)

(A typical public transport ladden with commuters)

Sonamarg felt raw and untouched, a place where nature still reigns supreme. Horses grazed freely by the riverside, and the sound of rushing water filled the air. We hired ponies for the trip up the mountain which can lead to Thajiwas glacier. During the leisurely pony ride, we paused by the riverbank, letting the cool mountain breeze brush against our faces. It was one of those rare moments when silence said more than words - when beauty, in its purest form, filled the heart with quiet gratitude.

(Stunning scenic landscape)

(Snow capped mountains and glaciers in the background)

(Mesmerizing views of the Himalayas)

(In winter the weather can hit sub zero temperature)

(Golden-hued flowers only bloom in summer)

(Flowing iced water in the stream)

 

This place is a major local attraction during the summer months. During winter there are less people crowding the resort. Sonamarg is the base of a major trek that passes along several mountain lakes –Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. It is also the take off station for the drive to Ladakh across the Zojila, a major pass in the Great Himalayan Range, through which the Srinagar-Leh Road passes. But during this time of the year, the pass was closed for a few months because of heavy snow.

(Beautiful view of the mountainous terrain)

(The road uphill is covered with snow and slippery)

(The path to glacier tracking)

(Lazy ponies for hire)

(A popular activity despite heavy snow)

(The start of the pony ride uphill)

Next we set out for Gulmarg, a hill station about 50 kilometres from Srinagar. The drive was scenic and soothing, winding through pine-covered slopes and charming villages where children waved cheerfully as we passed. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, and soon the landscape opened into vast meadows framed by snow-capped peaks - a sight so breathtaking that words could barely capture it.

(Military vehicles on the road to Gulmarg)

(The 125 km scenic highway)

(Taking a breather with Farouk, our guide)

Gulmarg is at 2650 m above sea level. The distance was covered in 3 hours. The view enroute from Tangmarg to Gulmarg is fascinating. It has one of the best ski slopes and claimed to be the highest golf course of the world with 18 holes. Gulmarg also prides itself as one of the highest lift-served ski resorts in the world with a Gondola Cable Car Lift to Apharwat top. 

(A photo with the highland sentry)

(Alpine landscape from a view point)

(Thinner air on the snow covered  mountain)

(The lower cable car station)

(Ascending to the second station)

(A resort covered with heavy snow)

(Scattered vibrant coloured mountain resorts)

The first section of the Gondola, from Gulmarg to Kongdori gives a downhill ski run of about 3 km. Known as the “Meadow of Flowers,” Gulmarg lives up to its name. In spring, it bursts with colours from wild blooms, while in winter it transforms into a white wonderland. We took the Gulmarg Gondola, one of the highest cable cars in the world, and as we rose higher, the view of the Himalayas stretched endlessly - layers upon layers of majestic beauty. Standing there, surrounded by silence and snow, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace, as though time had slowed to let us simply breathe and marvel.

 

(Local guides looking for business)

(Professional skiers getting ready to explore)

(A popular tourist destination)

After the cable car ride we tried the not-so-smooth sledge ride which caused my injured back to ache again. We had a hearty, hot lunch at the Pines Resort Hotel at the top of the mountain.

(Locals fooling around in the thick snow)

(A manual help for the sledge ride)

(Lunch at Pine Resort Hotel)

Later at night, we explored the old city of Srinagar, where narrow lanes buzzed with life and colour. Shops overflowed with pashmina shawls, hand-carved wooden crafts, silver jewellery, and saffron - treasures that reflected the artistry and warmth of the Kashmiri people. The scent of freshly brewed Kahwa, their traditional saffron-infused tea, drifted from small tea stalls, inviting us to pause and savour the moment while we had our last minute shopping for souvenirs.

👈2008 India: 03 Kashmir - Abodes of Pleasure and Love...

2008 India: 05 Jaipur - Tourist Hub of Rajasthan...👉