02 - First Night at Sea...

“The sea has a way of reminding us how wonderfully small we are in this vast world...”

(Watching giant fruit bats during sunset)

Date: 01/09/2026 (Tuesday)
Activity: Rangko Cave & Sailing Day 01
Destination: Rangko Cave, Kelor Island and Kalong Island

Today began on a particularly special note - it was our 47th wedding anniversary.

We celebrated with breakfast at the rooftop Bay Restaurant, where we enjoyed a panoramic view of the bay. The breakfast spread was excellent, offering a generous selection of international favourites. We had omelettes, waffles, pancakes, assorted pastries and freshly baked breads. The coffee was particularly good - we kept asking for refills!

(The early birds, celebrating their 47th Anniversary)

(The view of Labuan Bajo Marina from the rooftop)

It was a hearty and satisfying breakfast, just what we needed to keep us going until lunch later, when we would be dining aboard our phinisi.

(Girls just wanna have fun...)

(Celebrating Independence Day in Labuan Bajo)

Turquoise pool of Rangko Cave

After breakfast, we headed to Tanjung Boleng, a coastal landmark tucked beneath lush, steep hills along the shoreline. It is one of the departure points for travellers heading to the famous Rangko Caves.

(Mural on the wall - a man riding a Komodo Dragon)

As it was low tide, reaching our boat was an adventure in itself. We had to be pulled across the shallow water on a rather makeshift raft to get to the boat. It was certainly an unusual, and memorable way to begin our excursion!

(The sea at low tide)

(Wading in the low tide to the speedboat)

(Boarding a makeshift raft for a fee)

(A villager pulling the raft to the speedboat)

(Safely on board, to Rangko Island)

From Tanjung Boleng, it was about a 15-minute boat ride by speedboat across the sparkling waters of the Flores Sea to Rangko Island. From the landing point, we trekked for several minutes under the hot sun before finally reaching Rangko Cave. The cave is a beautiful limestone ocean cavern, famous for its hidden, crystal-clear turquoise saltwater pool. Unlike conventional inland caves, Rangko is connected to the sea through fissures in the limestone. The mineral-rich seawater gives the pool an extraordinary clarity and buoyancy, making it a wonderful place for a refreshing swim.

(Crystal clear waters of Rangko Island)

(The jetty of the uninhabited Rangko Island)

(A secluded beach of Rangko Island)

(The start of a short climb to Rangko Cave)

And yes, we had come prepared to swim! After enjoying our time at the cave, we made our way back to Tanjung Boleng on the NTT mainland. We were more than ready for the fresh coconut juice waiting for us there. After the heat and exertion of our excursion, that cold, refreshing coconut water tasted absolutely wonderful.

(Sharp rugged stone steps into the pool)

(Natural light reflection of Rangko blue pool)

(The best lighting was from 2.30 pm - 3.00 pm)

(A refreshing coconut drink after the steep climb)

Our First Liveaboard Phinisi Experience

Back in Labuan Bajo, we headed to the Marina waterfront to board our traditional phinisi. These magnificent handcrafted wooden vessels are an important part of Indonesia's maritime heritage. Because of their considerable draft, they cannot always come right up to the shallow piers. Instead, they anchor in deeper water, and passengers are ferried out to them by tender boat. It was roughly ten-minute ride to our waiting phinisi. And there she was - our home for the next three days.

(On board of the phinisi - the beginning of our sailing adventure)

Modern phinisi liveaboards beautifully combine traditional Indonesian wooden craftsmanship with the comforts of a modern vessel. Our boat had comfortable cabins, a cosy dining area and all the facilities needed for our adventure, including a tender boat and equipment for snorkelling and diving.

(A spacious room with attached bathroom)

(Each room has a cozy balcony)

Soon after boarding, we sat down to our first lunch on board. Dining aboard a traditional Indonesian phinisi is part of the experience itself. The meals are generally centred around fresh local ingredients, particularly fish and seafood sourced from local markets and fishermen. Our first lunch was hearty and filling, and we certainly enjoyed it.

(A spread of delicious dishes awaited us)

(Our first meal on board of the phinisi)

Swimming With Baby Sharks at Kelor Island

After a short rest, it was time for our first island stop.

We sailed towards Kelor Island, a small, uninhabited island within the Komodo National Park. With its white sandy beach, clear turquoise waters and beautiful panoramic viewpoints, Kelor is often the perfect introduction to the islands before venturing deeper into Komodo territory.

(Off to Kelor Island)

(Joining the girls for a dip)

I joined the ladies for a swim in the shallow waters while hubby decided to tackle the climb to the summit. It was only about a 15-minute climb, but it was extremely steep, with an incline of roughly 45 degrees over loose soil and dry grass. Not exactly an easy climb!

(A few steps more to the viewpoint)

(The view from the summit)

But the effort was rewarded with a spectacular 360° panoramic view - the brilliant turquoise waters surrounding the island, stretching towards the silhouette of Flores in the distance. The descent was another matter altogether. With the steep slope and loose ground, hubby had to make his way down very carefully. It could have been quite dangerous if one wasn't cautious.

(Good humored cheerful baby sharks)

(Caught one in the shallow waters)

Back on the beach, we took a leisurely stroll along the white sand. Then came an unexpected little treat - we spotted baby sharks swimming remarkably close to the shoreline, darting playfully through the shallow water. What a sight!

Back aboard our phinisi, we enjoyed afternoon tea with fried bananas generously topped with grated cheese, accompanied by refreshing dragon fruit juice. Cookies, coffee and tea were also available throughout the day.

Bats Watching During Sunset at Kalong Island

As the afternoon faded, the phinisi sailed on towards Kalong Island, where we would anchor for the night. Kalong is famous for its spectacular sunset and for the thousands of giant fruit bats that take flight around dusk. As the sun slipped towards the horizon, the sky turned a beautiful shade of orange. Then, almost as if on cue, thousands of fruit bats began emerging from the island.

(Sailing towards Kalong Island during dusk)

(Anchoring for the night at Kalong Island)

(Thousands of fruit bats emerging from Kalong Island)

Watching them take flight against the glowing evening sky was magical. What struck me most was the almost awe-inspiring silence of the spectacle. The bats simply glided overhead, one after another, passing directly over our phinisi as they began their nightly journey.

It was one of those moments that photographs can never quite capture.

Our First Night at Sea

Our Muslim chef, Pak Ramdan, prepared a delicious seafood-based dinner for us that evening. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to enjoy much of it. My stomach was beginning to feel a little queasy. While everyone else was enjoying themselves listening to music and stargazing from the top deck, I stayed in bed, nursing a slight nausea.

(Everyday can end beautifully)

The choppy sea conditions had aggravated my existing vestibular issues, and the gentle rocking of the traditional wooden phinisi was no longer feeling quite so gentle to me! So, while the others enjoyed the evening under the stars, I decided that the best thing I could do was rest. After all, tomorrow promised another full day of exciting discoveries.

Hopefully, I would wake up feeling much better in the morning.

03 - Into the Heart of Komodo...

"The sea has a way of reminding us how wonderfully small we are in this vast world...”

(Do not disturb a sleepy Komodo dragon)

Date: 02/09/2026 (Wednesday)
Activity: Sailing Day 02
Destination: Padar Island, Komodo Dragons & Manta Rays

This morning, thankfully, I was feeling much better.

After Subuh prayers, we had an early morning snack of bread and strawberry jam, accompanied by cappuccino, before boarding the tender boat to Padar Island.

Racing the Sunrise at Padar Island

We were up early to race the rising sun to Padar Island, the third-largest island in the Komodo National Park. Padar is famous worldwide for its dramatic landscape and breathtaking panoramic views, and its main viewpoint is reputed to be one of the most spectacular vistas in the region. Getting there, however, was no easy feat!

(Climbing up slow and steady)

(Sunrise stop at Pos 4)

(Admiring the view from high above)

(A group photo at Post 4)

(With Ari, the tour guide and Rafi the photographer)

The climb to the viewpoint was laborious, involving more than 800 wooden and stone steps up a steep but well-structured trail. It was certainly a challenge, but Alhamdulillah, at our age, we managed to make it all the way to the summit!

(Yeay! we made it to Post 5, the last viewpoint)

 
And what a reward awaited us. From the top, we were greeted by an awesome panorama of Padar's three magnificent crescent-shaped bays. Each bay has its own distinctive colour of sand - white, black and pink - framed by the rugged, dry hills and surrounded by the brilliant blue waters of the Flores Sea. It was breathtaking.

After our successful, albeit challenging, ascent to the peak of Padar, we returned to the phinisi and tucked into a well-deserved, hearty breakfast.

(Nasi goreng, nuggets and hot dogs for breakfast)

Mingled with Tame Deers at  Long Beach

Later, we headed to Long Beach, a beautiful stretch of pink-hued sand on the northern side of Padar Island. It is one of the prominent pink beaches in the region, with a considerably longer shoreline than the better-known Pink Beach on Komodo Island.

(Ready to explore the Long Beach)

(Blue ocean at Long Beach)

(Hue of pink coloured sand at Long Beach)

(A leisure stroll along the pink beach)

The unusual pink colour is created by a combination of the white sand and tiny red marine organisms called foraminifera. When their red shells break down and mix with the sand, they create that beautiful pastel-pink hue, which becomes especially vivid under the midday sun.

(The deers at Long Beach are tame and playful)

The beach had another attraction too - the resident deer! We mingled with the rather tame deer wandering along the beach, hoping, no doubt, that some generous tourists would have treats for them. They seemed quite accustomed to visitors and were certainly a hit with our group.

Komodo Dragons - A Secret that Time Forgot

Today was undoubtedly the highlight of our Labuan Bajo adventure - meeting the legendary Komodo dragons on Komodo Island.

 

(Passing through a village on Komodo Island)

(Learning about the legend of Ora from the ranger)

The local village communities live within the same ecosystem as these magnificent reptiles. The population includes descendants of the indigenous Ata Modo people as well as people whose families came from Sulawesi, Bima and Manggarai. From the village, we set off on a short trek into the surrounding area, accompanied by our guides and rangers. And then came the moment we had been waiting for. We were incredibly lucky to encounter several Komodo dragons along the trek!

 

(Keeping a distance from a baby Komodo)

(Camouflaged among the bushes, ready to ambush preys)

(A pair of male komodo dragons)

(Beware! This giant lizard is quite aggressive)

Komodo Dragon is the largest extant species of lizard, with the males growing to a maximum length of 3 m and weighing up to 150 kg. Also known as the Komodo monitor, it is a large reptile of the monitor lizard family Varanidae that is endemic to the Indonesian islands. The largest extant population lives within the Komodo National Park in Eastern Indonesia. Seeing these enormous prehistoric-looking lizards in their natural habitat was both fascinating and a little intimidating. They certainly look every bit as formidable as their reputation suggests!

We were able to take photographs from a safe distance, capturing memories of our close encounter with one of the world's most remarkable reptiles.

Lunch Aboard the Phinisi

By the time we returned to our phinisi, we were absolutely ravenous - almost as hungry as the Komodo dragons we had just seen! Lunch was very much welcomed.

(Good food for hungry Komodo hunters)

Dining aboard a traditional phinisi liveaboard is a full-board culinary experience, with local Indonesian flavours blended with familiar international dishes. With our itinerary involving frequent snorkelling, swimming and island trekking, Chef Ramdan prepared meals that were hearty, fresh and filling.

After lunch, we took a short rest before our next adventure.

Giant Manta Rays gliding gracefully in blue waters

Our next stop was Manta Point, where we were hoping for an encounter with the magnificent manta rays. And once again, we were lucky! As we snorkelled in the crystal-clear blue waters, we spotted around half a dozen graceful giant manta rays gliding below us.

 

(Chasing the giant manta rays)

(A huge one gliding beneath us)

(Manta rays couple - dancing together gracefully)

Watching these enormous creatures move so effortlessly through the water was an unforgettable experience. They seemed almost weightless as they gracefully swept their enormous wings through the sea.

Wading and Synchronised swimming at Taka Makassar

From Manta Point, we continued to Taka Makassar, where we had another opportunity to swim and snorkel in the cool waters. Taka Makasar is a unique crescent-shaped sandbar within the Komodo National Park. 

(We have the sandbar island to ourselves)

Often described as a “disappearing island”, this tiny, uninhabited strip of sand appears and disappears with the tides. It is surrounded by shallow, crystal-clear turquoise water, making it an idyllic place for swimming and snorkelling.

(The shallow water of Taka Makassar)

We enjoyed swimming and snorkelling while admiring the colourful fish and corals beneath us. After a full morning and afternoon of trekking and exploring, the cool water was wonderfully refreshing.

(In our swimming gear, ready to snorkel)

(Synchronised swimming in the cool clear water)

A Rough Rocking Night at Sea

By evening, our phinisi had sailed towards Pulau Sebayur, where we anchored for the night. Sebayur is a beautiful island just north of the Komodo National Park, known for its pristine white beaches, clear waters and rugged, dry hills.

Dinner tonight featured grilled fish and prawns - the star dishes of the evening. Everything was delicious, but I made sure not to overeat. After last night's experience with nausea, I was taking no chances!

Unfortunately, life aboard the phinisi was not getting any easier for some of us. While some of our group persevered through the continuous rocking and swaying of the boat, others had to contend with nausea and headaches. The sea conditions had remained choppy, and we were also mindful of the ongoing aftershocks following the recent 7.7-magnitude earthquake. Although we did not actually feel the tremors while at sea, knowing that the aftershocks were continuing kept us a little on edge throughout our sailing. Tonight, the gentle rocking of the phinisi was no longer quite so gentle.

Still, Day 03 had given us an incredible collection of memories - standing atop Padar Island, walking among the Komodo dragons, swimming with manta rays and exploring the magical waters of Taka Makassar. It had been an exhausting day, but what a day it was!

Tomorrow would bring another new adventure.