A traveller's reflection

Wednesday, 19 March 2025

03 Kembara Ramadhan: Yala, Thailand

"Don't worry when you are not recognized but strive to be worthy of recognition...” – Abraham Lincoln

(Yala Central Mosque, Thailand)

Day 03: Wednesday, 12 March 2025

Route: Narathiwat - Yala
Distance: 110 km
Hotel: The Linux Garden Hotel, Yala

The wake up alarm was at 3.30 am. Solat tahjud and warm the food for sahur.

(Having our sahur in the room)

By 4.30 am we were already walking a short 10-minute distance to the new renovated Raja Legeh Menara Mosque for subuh prayers. The Old Central Mosque, also known as Al-Jum'iyah Mosque stands as a magnificent architectural gem in Narathiwat. Renowned for its towering clock tower, this mosque serves as a prominent landmark, easily recognizable and accessible to worshippers and visitors alike. The original wooden mosque was built in 1938 in the Sumatran-style during the reign of Raja Legeh, the last ruler of the Malay Islamic kingdom of Pattani, Tengku Ngah Shamsuddin. After his death, he was buried in front of the mosque. The mosque's serene atmosphere provides a peaceful sanctuary for reflection and worship, making it a beloved spiritual refuge for many. It is an active and popular mosque with a bustling market nearby.

(The clock tower near the old Central Mosque)

(Raja Legeh Menara Mosque)

(Beautifully renovated and expanded)

(A separate wing for the Muslimah)

(The main prayer hall)

Had a short nap till 10.30 am when it was time to check-out. Drove out of Narathiwat towards Yala on the 3060 highway. Detoured to visit the giant replica of the Al-Quran at Kampung Pak Pungoh halfway on the route to Yala. The 'Al-Israa' verse is written on the replica.To further complement the presence of the Al-Quran replica, local residents helped build a replica of the Hira' Cave and Uhud Hill near the replica to commemorate the sacrifice of the Prophet Muhammad in developing the message of Islam. After it was built in 2023, the replica became a tourist attraction. Sadly, it was not well maintained when we were there.

(A large rehal replica at the entrance of Masjid Ban Phapu Ngo_

(The giant Quran replica)

Arrived at Yala around noon and checked-in The Linux Garden Hotel at RM110/night. We stayed here during our Kembara Ramadhan in 2019. The room was comfortable and spacious. The only set back was the limited parking space.

(The Linux Garden Hotel, Yala our lodging for a night)

We drove to recce the Yala Central Mosque. Parking was a bit difficult as it was located on the main busy streets next to the market. We plan to come here for subuh prayers tomorrow morning.

We performed our solat jamak Zohor/Asar at the green cosy residential mosque of Masjid Subulus Salam, a short driving distance from the Central Mosque. The Nazir of the Mosque, En. Hussein, invited us to join their iftar and tarawih prayers here tonight but we declined as we had other plans.

(Masjid Subulus Salam)

(Performing jamak prayers at the green mosque)

Visited Masjid Yarna Tue Bo or Pink Mosque or Masjid Haji Turbo for some photo shots. This mosque is located on a busy street and parking our bigfoot was quite a challenge.

(A bright pink Masjid Haji Turbo)

We performed solat Maghrib at Masjid Darul Muhajireen Yala. Iftar was provided but we decided to break fast with kurma and mineral water in the car as there was a long queue for food. The Darul Muhajireen Mosque is a busy traders mosque next to the Tambon Sateng Market. We had initially planned to have our iftar and tarawih prayers here. But there was a surprisingly large crowd for Iftar. We performed maghrib prayers here then drove to the Front Garden Cafe located nearby for nasi briyani daging and roti canai dinner.

(Masjid Darul Muhajireen, Yala)

(The Front Garden Cafe for dinner)

(Nasi Briyani Daging)

After dinner, we performed eight raka'at of tarawih complemented with three raka'at witir prayers at Masjid Nurul Iman of Yala. It is quite a large mosque with ample parking space around it. It has a distinctive blue dome that can be seen from afar. That was how we found this mosque. We spotted the blue dome from Masjid Darul Muhajireen. The mosque is quite large but looks unfinished as its outer walls and windows were unpainted.

(Masjid Nurul Iman, Yala)

(The main prayer hall)

After tarawih, we drove back to our hotel for a good night rest.

👈KR 02: Kota Bharu - Narathiwat

KR 04: Yala - Pattani👉

04 Kembara Ramadhan: Pattani, Thailand

“Life itself is the most wonderful fairy tale...” – Hans Christian Andersen

(Pattani Central Mosque, Thailand)

Day 04: Thursday, 13 Mar 2025
Route: Yala - Pattani
Distance: 85 km
Hotel: The Rooms Residence, Pattani

Sahur was nasi, sambal sotong and sambal bilis kacang.

(Driving in the early morning rain)

By 4.30 am we drove to the Central Mosque of Yala. Parking area is limited so we had to park in the alley. Performed subuh prayers but skipped the kuliah after subuh. This Yala Central Mosque is the Yala Province's main mosque and was completed in 1984. The mosque was built in the Western architectural style, adapted to suit the structure of the mosque. Approximately thirty wide steps in the front of the mosque lead to the upper terrace. It can be a challenging climb for the elderly. The roof is square with a dome in its center. There are internal stairs leading to the upper prayer halls. There is a special prayer room located on the ground floor catering for the elderlies and the disabled.

(Yala Central Mosque)

(The entrance to the mosque)

(The long climb to the main prayer hall)

(The main prayer hall on the upper level)

Back in the hotel, had a brief refreshing nap before we checked-out around 10.45 am and drove out of Yala towards Pattani. By noon we arrived in Pattani and checked-in the Rooms Residence at Rm100/night. We stayed here in 2019 during our Kembara Ramadhan.

(All ready for the road)

(One of the many Police road-blocks along the route)

(A welcoming sign to Pattani)

(Arriving in the town of Pattani)

(The Rooms Residence, Pattani)

Drove to Pattani Central Mosque located not very far from our hotel. The Central Mosque distinct beauty stems from its exterior design, influenced by the Taj Mahal in India and Western-style temples. The mosque is often referred to as the Taj Mahal of Thailand. It features a prominent central dome and satellite domes surrounding all four sides. Additionally, there are minarets on either side of the building, which serve as towers used to call local worshippers at prayer times. There is a large fountain pool that cools the external landscape, creating a picturesque scene. This exquisite Pattani Central Mosque was built in 1954 and took nine years to complete. The front entrance has a long corridor that leads to the mosque, with palm trees lining the pathway. This is our second Ramadhan here. After some photos we walked along the shops and bought a pair of slippers to replace my damaged shoes.

(The Central Mosque of Pattani)

(The Taj Mahal of Thailand)

(The history of Pattani Central Mosque)

(Pattani Tourist Map)

Before we drove back to our hotel. We visited several other mosques around the area. Our first stop was at the Pakistan Mosque for prayers but unfortunately there was no prayer room for ladies. This Pakistani Mosque in Pattani caters for the Pakistani diaspora in Yala Thailand. It is located by the Thani River. From the river, this single storey mosque looks like a grand two storey green mosque. There was a dominantly male only presence in this mosque.

(The Pakistan Mosque, Pattani)

(The only prayer hall in the mosque)

Visited the Yayasan Haji Sulong Abdulkadir al-Fatani, also known as Haji Sulong Tomina or Hajji Sulong. He was a reformist and a separatist in Thailand. He sought greater recognition of the Jawi community in Pattani. His surau attracts visitors from all over. One of the key reforms that Haji Sulong pushed for was the formalization of religious education. Previously, religious education occurred at the pondok schools. These pondok schools had no established curriculum and the lessons there were taught only by the religious teacher that set it up within the various communities. Spurred by the changes that happened in Egypt, Haji Sulong Tohmina sought to integrate religious education with the secularized subjects like science, mathematics, moral education. Even though the central government did not fully subscribe to the alternative education at the madrasah, they were not overtly in direct opposition to the idea. Haji Sulong gained traction in establishing a formalized religious education in the form of the madrasah system.

(Yayasan Haji Sulong Abdulkadir al-Fatani)

(A madrasah and a museum)

(A narrow staircase leading to the main prayer hall)

Next visit was to the Ikwaniah Bitingtonjon Mosque, located on the Thani River. There are no tarmac roads leading to this beautiful Mosque. We had to navigate an extremely narrow village road to get to a small clearing to park our vehicle. From there, it was about a half kilometre walk to the Mosque. It is however easily accessible by motorcycles. The colourful interior of this Ikwaniah Bitingtonjon Mosque of Pattani gives a sense of calmness and serenity even though there are many active fishing boats moored to the river walk ways of the Mosque. We would have enjoyed the experience of iftar and tarawih prayers here.

(Extremely narrow road to the mosque)

(The impressive Ikwaniah Bitingtonjon Mosque)

(Spacious main prayer hall)

(The view of the Thani River)

(Fishing boats docking on the river banks)

We visited Raja Pattani Mosque also known as the Raja Mosque of Pattani. The Raja Pattani Mosque was established in 1845 during the reign of Sultan Muhammad of Pattani State. It stands as one of Pattani’s most venerable and cherished landmarks. Over its long history, this mosque has not only been a vital place of worship but also a central gathering spot for the community.

(Raja Mosque of Pattani)

(The main entrance to the mosque)

It is a legacy that reminds the Pattani community of the reign of the Pattani Malay kings who once reached the golden age, and as a symbol of the struggle of the Pattani Malay kings in the past. Originally, this mosque was built using wood during the reign of Sultan Muhammad, one of the Kelantan royal relatives who was appointed king of Pattani. Later, this mosque was renovated to a stone building during the reign of Tengku Putih, the son of Sultan Muhammad. Its enduring significance is reflected in the various extensions and renovations it has undergone over the years.

(The interior view - the main prayer hall)

(The ablution pool and the old geduk)

(A clean spacious compound)

Rested in the hotel room for the rest of the afternoon. Tonight we had iftar at Pattani Central Mosque. Over a thousand people attended the iftar. The iftar was graced with the presence of prominent politicians, senior government officials and esteemed religious leaders. We shared a table laden with delicious food with a local family.

(The Muslim community in Pattani)

(Getting ready for iftar)

(Tasty and variety of dishes on the table)

We performed maghrib, isya and tarawih prayers here,There's no air conditioning or carpeting here but large doors and windows provide sufficient ventilation. Most of the ladies prefered to pray in the fresh night air under the cool shade of the date palms in the gardens of the Pattani Central Mosque. An ethereal spiritual experience for locals and tourist alike.