A Journey Across Yunnan’s Living Heritage...

“The road is obstructed and long, but if you walk it, you will arrive...” - Chinese proverb

(Yak-riding at Napahai Lake, Shangri-la)

Date: 24 August - 01 September 2015

Route: Kunming - Dali - Lijiang - Shangri-la
Travel Agent: Kembara Sufi

Yunnan is a province in southern China, bordering Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam as well as the Chinese provinces and regions of Guangxi, Guizhou, Sichuan and Tibet. Its name literally means south of the clouds. The Northwest of the province is heavily influenced by Tibet, with whom it shares a border, and has a large ethnic Tibetan population. The South is influenced by its proximity to Laos and Myanmar.

Yunnan is one of China’s most diverse and fascinating provinces both culturally and naturally. It is home to more than 25 ethnic minorities, snow-capped mountains, rice terraces, and ancient towns.

The 9-day Yunnan itinerary:

Day 01: Jurassic Welcome At Kunming Airport...
Day 02: A Traditional Yunnan Dining Experience...
Day 03: A Joyful Mawlid Celebration At Nanmen Mosque...
Day 04: A Dragon Lying In The Clouds Of Snow Mountain ...
Day 05: Double Rainbow at A Tibetan Town...
Day 06: Healing The Body, Balancing The Mind...
Day 07: From Tea Treasures to Trendy Streets...
Day 08: Lost Among A Maze of Rocks...
Day 09: End Of The Journey...

Yunnan 01: Jurassic Welcome At Kunming Airport

“Tranquility cultivates the body; simplicity nourishes virtue...” - Chinese proverb

(A display of dinosaurs fossils at the Arrival Hall) 

Day 01: 24 August 2025 (Sunday)
Flight: OD 670 KUL 2215 / KMG 0230+1 (Batik Air)
Route: Kuala Lumpur - Kunming
Hotel: Country Inn & Suite By Radisson, Kunming

Booked a Grab car for 3.00 pm. From our Bidara House, the traffic was smooth and we arrived at KLIA before 4.00 pm. Performed Asar prayers at the Surau Anjung Tinjau. Met the rest of the Yunnan Kembara Sufi group at the departure hall. All together there were 31 of us. After a short briefing by Arif, the tour leader, we group checked-in

Had a light dinner of mushroom pie and pastries from Bread History at the foodcourt before we cleared Immigration controls and headed to the departure gate.

Boarding was at 9.15 pm. The flight was slightly delayed to 10.45 pm. In-flight meals was served an hour after departure. It was a 4 hour flight to Kunming and we had a short nap before landing.

Arrived in Kunming Changshui International Airport around 3.30 am. In the early hours of the morning, immigration and customs at Kunming Airport were fast and efficient, making our arrival smooth and hassle-free, setting a pleasant tone for the start of our journey.

A huge dinosaur and two little ones welcomed us at the Arrival Terminal. What a surprise!

Yunnan 02: A Traditional Yunnan Dining Experience...

“Travelling a thousand miles is better than reading ten thousand books...” - Chinese proverb

(“Peacock Banquet” - a taste of tradition)

Day 02: 25 August 2025 (Monday)
Route: Kunming - Dali
Hotel: Dali Manyue M Garden Hotel

At the arrival hall, we were met by Miss Lee Ling, our local tour guide and she will be with us for the whole trip.

The bus took us direct to the Country Inn & Suite By Radisson, located quite near the airport. After freshening up, we had a light sleep before the wake-up call at 6.00 am. Breakfast was at 7.00 am and we checked out at 8.30 am.

We started our journey to Dali by bus. The route was on modern expressways with tunnels cutting through mountainous terrain. The bus ride lets us see much more of rural Yunnan. The highway winds through the foothills of the Hengduan Mountains, with rolling green hills and terraced farmland. The distance between the two cities is 340 km and the journey took more than 4 hours, with a brief comfort stop at one of the R&R.

Dali is a popular tourist destination for domestic Chinese tourists, one of the string of towns described in Yunnan tourist trail leading up to the beautiful Tiger Leaping Gorge. It is a medium-sized city and popular to backpackers and the ancient walled city is a hippie's heaven.

We had lunch at one of the many Muslim restaurants in Xiangyun County in Dali. The family-run restaurant serves a variety of Chinese dishes and stir-fried vegetables. Meals were served on a big round table for 10 persons. Each meal usually has 10 dishes. The food in Yunnan is less oily and spicy than Sichuan cuisine but still flavorful.

 
After lunch, we performed jamak prayers at Xianyung mosque, a short driving distance from the restaurant but we had to walk quite a distance from the main road as the road leading to the mosque is narrow and busy.

The bus took us to The "Santorini of Dali". It is a resort town in Dali that mimic the whitewashed architecture, blue-domed buildings, and cliffside views of Santorini, Greece. There were a crowd of visitors and there was a long queue at the buggy station. This tourist area features charming villas, cafes, and hotels overlooking Erhai Lake, offering romantic backdrops and Instagram-worthy photo opportunities for visitors. It is a popular destination for couples, honeymooners, and wedding photography, providing a taste of a Greek-like atmosphere.

We had high-tea at one of the many restaurants with the lake and mountain views. We had chinese tea, fruit juice, a plate of tropical fruits and cakes while enjoying the surrounding scenery.

Dinner was at the Peacock Thai Restaurant in Dali. A large decorative peacock sculpture served as a centerpiece on the dining table. Food were arranged around the base of the peacock sculpture, creating a visually appealing presentation. The dishes were also delicious and flavourful.

It was already late at night when we visited Dali Old City which is located about 13 km from Dali New Town. It is a beautifully preserved old town with traditional Bai ethnic architecture, cobbled streets, and views of Cangshan Mountain to the west and Erhai Lake to the east. It was once an important stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road.

It was quite a surprise that there was still a large crowd at the Foreigner Street which is the main street lined with chique cafés, bars and handicraft shops. Like many Chinese tourist destinations, the old town has architecture that dates back to the Ming dynasty, but has been extensively renovated, rebuilt and modernized. The city South and North Gates were Impressively lighted. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, the iconic symbol of Dali, is located just outside the old town.

From the old city the bus drove us to our hotel which was an hour's drive away.

Yunnan 03: A Joyful Mawlid Celebration At Nanmen Mosque...

“A long road tests a horse’s strength; time reveals a person’s heart...” - Chinese proverb

(Dali South Gate Mosque)

Day 03: 26 August 2925 (Tuesday)
Route: Dali - Xizhou - Lijiang
Hotel: Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel

Breakfast was at 7.00 am. Checked out of the hotel around 8.30 am.

Our first visit was at Xizhou Ancient Town, a well-preserved Bai ethnic settlement in Dali. It is another gem of Dali, and it feels more authentic and less commercialized compared to Dali Old Town which we visited late last night. Xizhou is known for its Bai Minority Courtyard Houses. Many houses are over 100 years old, decorated with beautiful murals and carvings. From the street stalls, we bought Xizhou Baba, the famous Bai snack - a round, crispy stuffed bread that can be either savory or sweet.

By 11.30 am we left Xizhou Ancient Town to visit a Muslim village where we observed the making of "Ru Shan," a popular fan-shaped cheese snack from Dali. It is made by stretching and drying fresh cow's milk curdled with a souring agent. Locals and tourists alike enjoy it grilled or fried. Here we were served with tea, local fruits and local snacks and had the opportunity to tour the neat houses and courtyards.

From the Muslim Village we walked to the Nanmen Mosque or the Dali South Gate Mosque. It is is one the most ancient mosques in Yunnan province. The mosque was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). According to records, The South Gate Mosque was initially situated on Cangping Street, after the failure of the Muslim uprising led by Du Wenxiu, the mosque was converted by the Qing government into the City God Temple of Dali. In 1944, it was converted into a district court, but eventually being restored to its original purpose as a mosque. The mosque bears a strong influence from traditional Chinese architecture, with both its main hall and minaret resembling the ancient Chinese architectural styles. We performed our jamak prayers in a temporary prayer room as the main prayer room was crowded with jemaah celebrating the Mawlid. The mosques was well decorated and in a festivities atmosphere There was a food bazaar outside the mosque selling local snacks and dishes.

(Nanmen Mosque is in festive mood)

 
We had lunch at Dali Baizu Restaurant in Eryuan County, adjacent to Dali. The family-run restaurant is known for its traditional Bai ethnic cuisine.

After lunch we travelled to Lijiang, about 192 km from Dali. We had a brief comfort stop at a R&R along the highway. As Lijiang is on high altitude, some of us bought herbal medicine. This traditional remedy is used to ease altitude sickness symptoms such as headache, dizziness and fatigue.

By 5.30 pm we reached the city of Lijiang and went direct to Lijiang Ancient Town of Naxi Minority, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Old Town of Lijiang contains a mixture of different historical architecture styles. We walked around slowly and breath deeply and watched the crowd. Bought some fridge magnets for souvenirs. There is a bonfire around 7:00 pm at the Si Fang Jie, the central plaza. Many local folks in their national costumes singing and dancing, apparently entertaining themselves and the tourists.

Dinner was at a Muslim Halal Restaurant in Lijiang.

Checked in Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel where we will be staying for two nights here.

Yunnan 04: A Dragon Lying In The Clouds Of Snow Mountain ...

“Ninety miles into a hundred-mile journey is only halfway. The last stretch of a journey is often the hardest..." - Chinese proverb

(Above the clouds)

Day 04: 27 August 2925 (Wednesday)
Route: Lijiang - Jade Dragon Snow Mountain - Blue Moon Valley - Lijiang
Hotel: Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel

When we woke up this morning, we felt a little shortness of breath. Lijiang sits much higher than Kunming at an altitude of about 2,400 m (7,900 ft) above sea level. The air is thinner and since we arrived in Lijiang, some of our fellow travelers complained of shortness of breath, headache, and experienced sleep disorder.

Today we had Mr David, another local guide to bring our group to the attractions in Lijiang. Some natural or cultural sites around Lijiang like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Impression Lijiang Show, or sometimes minority village tours require visitors to go with licensed local guides, partly for conservation, safety, and to support local employment. This morning we started our journey early in the morning. At 5.40 am. we were already on our way to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, about 40 km from our hotel. We had our packed breakfast in the bus. On the way, we stopped to purchase oxygen tanks, a must for everyone.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain or Yùlóng Xuěshān is one of the most famous landmarks near Lijiang, The main peak Shanzidou is 5,596 m (18,360 ft). It is the southernmost glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. It is called “Jade Dragon” because the 13 snow-capped peaks resemble a dragon lying in the clouds.

When we arrived at the Cable Car Station there was already a large crowd and a long queue. The cable car brought us to the Glacier Park, the highest accessible point at the height of 4506 m. From the top cable station, you can walk up the wooden boardwalks and stairs that lead to the viewpoints. The highest accessible platform is around 4,680 m (15,350 ft). The true peak is very steep, glaciated, and restricted and only professional mountaineers with permits can attempt it. After some photo shots, we descended to the Visitors Centre and boarded a shuttle bus to the Blue Moon Valley about 12 km away.

(On top of the world)

The Blue Moon Valley is nestled at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It has an enchanting landscape defined by shimmering lakes, snow-capped peaks, and serene alpine paths. The valley is known for its vivid, turquoise-blue rivers and lakes formed from glacier and snowmelt especially brilliant on clear, sunny days. From a distance, the crescent shape of the valley resembles a blue moon cradled by the Jade Dragon Mountain. There are four stunning lakes divided by small waterfalls and rocky formations. Lunch packs were provided and we had ours by the lake.

From the Blue Moon Valley we went to the performance venue of "Impression of Lijiang" which is located in Ganhaizi Blue Moon Valley Theater in Yulong Snow Mountain. At an altitude of 3,100 m, it is one of the highest performance theaters in the world. The performance is set against the natural backdrop of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Show was performed by more than 500 local villagers from the Naxi, Yi, Bai, and Tibetan ethnic groups. It tells the story of their traditions, relationship with nature, and respect for the mountains.

Back at the hotel, we rested till 6.00 pm then went out to have dinner at one Muslim restaurant in Lijiang.

Yunnan 05: A Double Rainbow at A Tibetan Town...

“A journey of a thousand miles begins beneath one’s feet...” - Chinese proverb

(A dazzling double rainbow in Dukezong Old Town)

Day 05: 28 August 2025 (Thursday)

Route: Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge - Napa Lake Wetland - Dukezong Old Town - Shangri-la
Hotel: Shangri-la Elong Hotel

After breakfast we checked out at 8.30 am and got ready to travel to Shangri-la about 190 km from Lijiang.

On the way, we detoured to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, one of the deepest and most spectacular river canyons in the world, located about 60 km north of Lijiang between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain. The Jinsha River or the upper Yangtze runs through the gorge. Legend says a tiger once escaped a hunter by leaping across the gorge at its narrowest point. There are escalators and walkways that make it easier for visitors to reach the main viewing platforms by the river closest to the Tiger Leaping Stone. the legendary spot where the tiger supposedly leapt across.

We had lunch at a Muslim Halal Food at Deqen and performed our jamak prayers in the room in the upper floor of the restaurant.

Next destination was Nàpǎihǎi Lake in Napahai Nature Reserve, which is a highland wetland and seasonal lake located about 8 km northwest of Shangri-La. The altitude is around 3,260 m above sea level. In the rainy season it fills with water, while in winter it partly dries into grassland where horses and yaks graze. When we were there Naxi and Tibetan villagers offer horseback tours around the wetland. Visitors could also rent costumes for photography. Other activities are boat rides,Yak rides and archery.

By the calm waters of Napahai Lake, I rode a yak draped in colorful Tibetan cloths - a short ride that carried the charm of Shangri-La’s highlands. It was more for the photos than the journey but what a fun story to bring home!

From Napahai Lake we travelled to Shangri-la Dukezong Old Town. Shangri-la, formerly known as Zhongdian, largely Tibetan, with famous Buddhist monasteries, alpine lakes, and rich culture.

Shangri-La Old Town, is a well-preserved Tibetan town. It boasts a history of over 1,300 years and was an important stop on the Tea Horse Road. The old town was entirely destroyed by a giant fire in January 2014. The town has been rebuilt and is known for its traditional Tibetan architecture, including residential complexes, with endless shophouses selling tourist trinkets and souvenirs. The nightly dancing in the square begins at 7.00 pm is popular for locals of all ages and lasts until 10:00 pm. The temple at the top of the hill with a giant praying wheel gives a first taste of what can be seen in Songzanlin Monastery.

It was drizzling when we were in Dukezong Old Town. The rain gave way to a dazzling double rainbow, painting the sky above the Tibetan roofs in colors of wonder.

Dinner was at a Muslim restaurant in town in Diqing Zangzu, Shangri-la

After dinner we checked in Shangri-La Elong Hotel. The thin air left many of us with headaches, breathlessness, and poor sleep. Our guide advised skipping hot showers before bed, a tip we followed to ease the effects of altitude.

Yunnan 06: Healing The Body, Balancing The Mind...

“Hearing a hundred times is not as good as seeing once...” - Chinese proverb

(Cordyceps Sinensis, a rare fungus of caterpillars)

Day 06: 29 August 2025 (Friday)
Route: Shangri-la - Potatso National Park - Lijiang Old Town
Hotel: Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel

We had an early breakfast before we checked out of the hotel.

This morning we will be visiting Potatso National Park located 23 km from the hotel. Potatso National Park is in Shangri-La Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is famous for being the first national park in mainland China that meets international standards (IUCN). It has two lakes, Bita and Shudu lakes, a visitor center, several interesting minority villages, lush forests and pasture views. From the visitor center a bus takes visitors to the first stop, 13 km away. There are several kilometers of raised wooden walkways around the 300-acre Shudu Lake. The group took a boat ride around the lake and disembarked at the bus pick up point.

We had lunch at a Muslim Halal Food in Shangri-la

From Shangri-la we travelled about 205 km to Lijiang with one brief comfort stop at the R&R.

In Lijiang we visited a Herbal Medicine Center. As it was already late afternoon, we performed our jamak prayers first before we began with the tour of the Herb Medicine Center. We had the opportunity to learn about Cordyceps sinensis, a rare fungus of caterpillar found in the high-altitude regions of Tibet, Yunnan, Qinghai, and Sichuan. It is highly prized in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) for boosting energy, lung health, kidney function, and immunity. Other Chinese herbal medicinal products are also sold here.

For dinner we had a local treat of Yak meat hot-pot. We experienced our first taste of yak meat tonight, adding another layer to our adventure.

Check in Lijiang Manbai Haoting Hotel.

Yunnan 07: From Tea Treasures to Trendy Streets...

“Traveling with good friends makes the road shorter...” - Chinese proverb

(Kunming Golden Horse and Gate Rooster Archways)

Day 07: 30 August 2025 (Saturday)
Route: Lijiang - Kunming - Yiliang
Hotel: Yiliang Ramada By Wyndham Kunming Yiliang Resort

Breakfast was very early in the morning because we had to check out by 6.40 am. We need to be at the train station early to beat the morning crowd. Loaded our luggage in the bus. The driver will be driving the bus to Kunming with our big bags. We only took our carry on on the bullet train.

This morning the group is taking the Bullet Train to Kunming which is 520 km away. When we arrived at the Lijiang Train Station, it was crowded with the morning commuters. Our tickets were pre-booked, so the checked-in process was smooth. The group was seated in the same coach. The high-speed bullet train that runs between Lijiang and Kunming took about 3 to 3.5 hours at an average speed of 170 km/hr. Our train never reached the maximum speed of 300 km/hr. The arrival station was at Kunming South Railway Station, an hour drive to central Kunming.

From the train station another tour bus took us to one Muslim restaurant at Xishan, Kunming city.

After lunch we crossed the road to Yongning Mosque and performed our jamak prayers there. The mosque was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty and is one of the oldest and most significant Islamic sites in Yunnan. The mosque has stood for centuries, symbolizing resilience amid Kunming’s urbanization, with its crescent still visible amid the changing skyline. Historically, it has weathered destruction—most notably in 1856 during the Qing suppression of a Muslim rebellion—but was rebuilt afterwards, reflecting the enduring faith of the local Muslim community .

Our journey continued with a compulsory visit to a silk factory, a stop that soon turned into a shopping opportunity for some, as the discounts and free gifts proved too tempting to resist.

Next we visited the Luosiwan Wholesale Market, the ultimate place in Kunming for bulk shopping: from silk fabrics and clothes to household goods and toys. It is one of the largest wholesale market in South-East-Asia. It is busy, chaotic, and massive. Prices are much cheaper if you buy in bulk, but some shops will also sell single pieces. At night, however, right outside and around the Luosiwan area, there are night market–style food stalls and small vendors.

We had dinner in the restaurant of Xin Sheng Da Hong Sheng International Hotel. Tonight's dinner was special. We had "Crossing the Bridge Noodles” Yunnan’s most famous dish, especially in Kunming. The dish contains a traditional rice noodle served with a rich hot broth plus a tray of raw and cooked ingredients that you add into the soup. The name "Crossing the Bridge Noodles” comes from a famous local legend.

Tonight we celebrated five birthdays of our August-born group members, marking the occasion with reciting of doa and the cutting of a huge delicious cake.

After dinner, we travelled to Yiliang Located about 52 km east of Kunming City which is an hour's drive away. Checked-in Yiliang Ramada by Wyndham Hotel for the night.

Yunnan 08: Lost Among A Maze of Rocks...

“At home, a thousand days are good; once you leave the door, difficulties arise...” - Chinese proverb

(Walking among towering limestone pillars in the Stone Forest)

Day 08: 31 August 2025 (Sunday)
Activity: The Stone Forest and Kunming City Tour
Route: Kunming - Airport transfer

Breakfast was at 7.00 am and checked out by 8.30 am. From our hotel we travelled for an hour to The Stone Forest, another attraction in Kunming.

The Stone Forest, one of Yunnan’s most famous attractions located about 90 km southeast of Kunming, in Shilin Yi Autonomous County. It is a spectacular karst landscape of tall limestone pillars that look like a forest made of stone. Formed over 270 million years of erosion. The Stone Forest is part of the South China Karst UNESCO World Heritage Site, since 2007. The Yi people live here. Many of their legends are tied to the rocks - like the story of Ashima, a Sani girl who turned into stone after resisting a forced marriage.

After visiting the Stone Forest we had lunch at one of the Muslim Restaurant within the Stone Forest area.

After lunch, the bus took us to Astaxanthin Factory, another compulsory visit. We visited Microalgae Cultivation Systems where there are rows of transparent photobioreactor tubes filled with green/red Haematococcus pluvialis. There was a guided tour where they explained the science behind H. pluvialis, the production cycle, and later showcasing and selling their finished medicinal and cosmetic goods.

From Yiliang, we travelled back to Kunming. Kunming is the provincial capital, nicknamed "Spring City". Known in China as the City of Eternal Spring, Kunming is at an almost-tropical latitude but with a 2000 m (6600 ft) altitude, which gives it a very temperate climate. However, in winter it has been known to snow. It was a nice sunny weather when we were there with intermittent rain towards the evening.

When we arrived in Kunming the bus took us direct to Shuncheng Mosque for jamak prayers. The Shuncheng Mosque is one of the largest and most notable mosques in Kunming, located on Shuncheng Street. The mosque holds significant historical and religious importance for the Hui Muslim community in Kunming. It serves as a central place for prayer services, religious ceremonies, and cultural events, fostering community engagement. The mosque's architecture reflects a blend of Islamic and traditional Chinese styles, showcasing the integration of cultures along the ancient Southern Silk Road.

After prayers, we walked a short distance to a Muslim retaurant for an early dinner.

Later we walked in the rain along Shuncheng Shopping Street. There are Modern Mall Complexes as part of a large, upscale commercial hub. There are food courts and restaurants with Chinese, Japanese, Korean BBQ, hotpot, and Western options. Cafés, Bakeries and choices of street snacks of Yunnan specialties lined the streets.

We spent almost two hours in Bolian Plaza and Nanping Pedestrian Street, which is popular for shopping, food, and nightlife.

Visited the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archways, two of the most famous landmarks in Kunming, The gates were built during the Ming Dynasty circa 1426–1435. They stand as twin ceremonial archways symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. The names come from two nearby mountains: Golden Horse Mountain and Jade Rooster Mountain.

By 10.00 pm we left the city and headed to Kunming Changshui International Airport located 28 km from city center.

Yunnan 09: End Of The Journey...

"The closer one gets to completing a task, the tougher it becomes..." - Chinese proverb

(Saying goodbye to the wild elephants of Yunnan)

Day 09: 01 September 2025 (Monday)
Flight: OD 671 KMG 0300/ KUL 07:00
Route: Kunming - KL

We checked-in after midnight and stayed in the departure lounge. Our flight was a little delayed. After the in-flight meals, we took a short nap before landing.

Landed in KLIA around 7.15 am. Had breakfast at the food court before we took the Grab back home. We reached our home sweet home safely at 11.00 am.

Alhamdulillah...