04 JJCM: Bangkok – Markets, Malls and the Maze of Trains

"Every journey begins with a small crossing — sometimes of borders, sometimes of comfort zones...”

(An imposing golden serpent at MBK Mall)

Day 04: 22 November 2025 (Saturday)
Route: Bangkok Free and Easy
Hotel: NASA Bangkok Hotel

(Watching the train passing by)

On our second day, we took the ARL and MRT to Chatuchak Weekend Market. As expected, it was crowded with locals and tourists, but we managed to pick up a few souvenirs and enjoyed a much-needed foot and shoulder massage.  Had nasi goreng and tom yum kung at one of the halal stall in Chatuchak.

(The Ramkhamhaeng ARL Station)

(The ARL is packed with commuters)

(Changing to MRT line)

(The MRT is not that full)

(The Clock Tower of Chatuchak)

(One of the many narrow Chatuchak ailes)

(Soap and aromatic oil stall)

(Our lunch at Sara Halal Restaurant)

By midday, the weather grew more intense, so we rode the train to MBK Mall. Our first mission was to find the prayer room, and once prayers were done, we allowed ourselves a relaxed wander through the mall. We weren’t looking for anything in particular, and after some time the endless rows of shops - crowded, loud, and selling much of the same merchandise - felt more tiring than exciting.

(The pathway connecting the many shopping malls)

(The MBK Shopping Mall)

(A tall glass of watermelon juice to quench the thirst)

The crowds, repetitive merchandise and endless walking quickly wore us out. A cold smoothie from a sidewalk stall gave us a short burst of energy, but navigating between malls proved confusing - we circled the same areas more than once, and the stairs took a toll on our tired feet.

By evening, we tried searching for halal street food and the night market but found neither. Exhausted, we settled for dinner at Yana Restaurant in MBK. The river cruise was skipped altogether.

(Yana Restaurant in the MBK Mall)

(My simple dinner - Pad Thai and spring-rolls)

Returning to the hotel became another challenge. The station was crowded, the ticket queue was long, and we mistakenly bought the wrong tickets several times, forcing us to retrace our steps. Frustrated but relieved, we finally reached our hotel safely - ending a most tiring day in Bangkok.

(A long que at the train ticket counter)

(Taking the right train to the hotel)

05 JJCM: Bangkok – Mosque Trails Along the Chao Phraya...

“Even in the busiest cities, peace appears when we travel with intention...”

(Ton Son Jami Mosque - the oldest mosque in Thailand)

Day 05: 23 November 2025 (Sunday)
Route: Bangkok Mosque Hunting
Hotel: NASA Bangkok Hotel

On the third day in Bangkok, we set out for a quieter kind of adventure - mosque hunting - exploring one in the city centre and two along the Chao Phraya River.

(A skywalk from the hotel to the ARL Station)

Our morning began at Darul Aman Mosque, its elegant minarets and intricate calligraphy instantly capturing our attention. Originally established as an Islamic school, the mosque has long played a role in nurturing Islamic learning and values. After performing our jamak prayers, we enjoyed a simple, comforting lunch of nasi goreng and nasi lemak at Rotinis Halal Restaurant next door.

(Taking a short cut via a narrow alley)

(Masjid Darul Aman - built in 1882)

(Lunch at Rotinis Halal Restaurant)

Under Bangkok’s shimmering skyline, next we cruised on an express ferry from Sathorn Pier to Si Phraya Pier. A short walk led us to Haroon Mosque, one of the city’s oldest Muslim enclaves. Despite Bangkok’s constant rush, the mosque offered a surprising sense of calm - a reminder that serenity can still be found in the heart of a restless city.

(A strong wind at Si Phraya Pier)

(The express ferry is full with tourists)

(Express ferries  criss-crossing the Chow Phraya River)

(Islamic murals on the wall)

(Reflection of the two of us - taking the right alley)

(Masjid Haroon - built in 1828)

(The main prayer hall of Masjid Haroon)

(An Indian Muslim tourist at the mosque)

From Si Phraya, two ferry rides took us across the river to Wat Arun Pier. From there, we made our way to the beautiful Ton Son Jami Mosque, founded in 1688 and considered one of the oldest mosques in Bangkok and Thailand. Once a raised teak house roofed with terracotta tiles, the mosque remains a cherished symbol of early Muslim heritage. We took our time touring and photographing its peaceful interior, grateful for the rare glimpse into its centuries-old past.

(Another ferry ride to cross the river)

(Wat Arun - against the bright sunlight)

(Ton Son Jami Mosque - founded in 1688) 

(The main prayer room - spacious and elegant )

(A model of the original wooden mosque)

(The old cemetery behind the mosque)

By the time we made our way back, dusk had settled over the river. The heat, long walks, and ferry rides had worn us down. We took the MRT and ARL back toward the hotel, and with the last of our energy, stopped at Indian Bites Restaurant for a late dinner - warm garlic cheese naan and dhal curry that tasted especially comforting after such a full day.

(Cheese Nan and Dhal curry for dinner)

A day of movement, faith, and gentle discoveries - each mosque revealing a different story woven into the corners of Bangkok.

06 JJCM: Phitsanulok - The Gentle Rhythm of Ordinary Life...

“In smaller towns, we found a kind of peace that no landmark could offer...”

(Having tea with Santa Bear in the woods)

Part II – Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Northern Hills

Day 06: 24 November 2025 (Monday)
Route: Bangkok – Phitsanulok
Hotel: Phitsanulok Polkadot Hotel

(Watching the sunset from our room on the 18th floor)

After three nights in Bangkok, we left early for Phitsanulok, grateful for the shift from the city’s bustle to the countryside’s calm. The northern route promised cooler weather, rolling hills, and a quieter rhythm - a welcome contrast to the capital’s restless pace. We cruised steadily along Highway 32, stopping at a PTT rest area for a simple coffee break to ease the monotony of the long drive.

(Simple breakfast at 7-Eleven)

(A beautiful farm along the route)

(Coffee break at a PTT rest area)

By noon, we made a short detour to Restoran Aminyan in Nakhon Sawan for lunch, only to find it closed - as were the neighbouring halal eateries. Since neither of us were particularly hungry, we decided to continue straight to Phitsanulok.

(Entering the city of Phitsanulok)

(Wat Phra Nang Phaya Amulet Buddha)

 
By mid-afternoon, we reached the peaceful provincial city set along the Nan River. We checked into Polkadot Café & Hotel, a small boutique stay with secure parking - simple, comfortable, and instantly welcoming after hours on the road. Its location was ideal, just steps away from the Pakistan Mosque and surrounded by various halal dining options. The rate was an unexpected delight at only THB 560 per night.

(Polkadot Cafe & Hotel, next to the many halal eateries)

(A short walking distance to the Pakistan Mosque)

After settling in, we walked to Pattani Halal Restaurant nearby for a late lunch. I ordered my usual fried rice and oxtail soup - familiar comfort food that somehow tastes a little better when shared after a hot, sunny day on the road.

(Lunch at Pattani Halal Restaurant)

(Dinner at Fakerah Roti just across Polkadot Cafe & Hotel)

Later in the evening, we wandered out again to a small halal stall. Their roti pisang cheese came highly recommended, and it lived up to its praise. As night fell, we lingered a while, enjoying the welcome coolness in the air - a gentle reward at the end of a long travel day.

(A Korean Cafe and Pub on the 2nd floor)

(A cozy corner in the hotel)

(Our room in Polkadot Cafe & Hotel, Phitsanulok)