12 Route 12: Hatyai

“Life is never fair, and perhaps it is a good thing for most of us that it is not...” – Oscar Wilde

(A Red Indian teepee at the R&R)

Day 12: 29 April 2025 (Tuesday)

Route: Chumphon - Hat Yai

Distance: 486 km

Hotel: Golden Crown Hotel, Hat Yai

We had our complimentary breakfast at the hotel dining room. Met a group of Thai Malays from Narathiwat who came to Chumphon for a meeting. 

(We were among the early birds)

( A heavy breakfast, for the long journey)

By 8.00 am we checked out and drove out of Chumphon. The journey will take us more than 7 hours non-stop through normal traffic. But with massive roadworks and interval stops for coffee breaks and lunch, we may reach Hatyai in the very late afternoon

(Leaving Chumphon early on a clear morning)

(Driving on Route 41 towards Hatyai)

(An accident on Route 41)

(On-going roadworks and upgradings)

(Another major accident)

Our first stop was at Baan Na Daem PTT for refuelling and comfort break.

(Refuelling at a PTT)

In Thung Song we found a new halal eatery located at a PTT rest area southbound. This Muslim Satun Restaurant is before the northbound PTT where Pakju Restaurant Northbound is located. The lady owner was very friendly and talkative and explained all the dishes in her shop. Most of the dishes were cooked with cili padi and a little bit spicy for my stomach. There was a free-flow of bubur cha-cha for everyone.

(Muslim Satun Restaurant)

(The menu on the wall)

(Extra hot dishes for lunch)

After lunch we stopped to check out Kak Da Thung Song Muslim Food, another halal food outlet a short distance away. There is also a prayer room next to the eatery. With this outlet, there are now three halal food establishments in three Thung Song PTTs.

(Kak Da Thung Song Muslim Food)

(A spread of tasty dishes)

When we reached Phatthalung, we stopped at Khok Muang PTT for prayer break. This PTT was once popular with the bikers as it has a Cowboy themed cafè and well decorated. There is even a Muslim prayer room in the vicinity. Unfortunately when we checked the prayer room, there was no water for ablution. We then decided to drive on and would only perform our prayers once we checked in our hotel in Hatyai. 

(Taking a rest on a cowboy's boot)

(The hot metal seat was occupied by the two cowboys)

(A Red Indian teepee, with a room converted into surau)

(The Muslim prayer room is behind the teepee)

Before the junction to Hatyai town centre, only one lane was opened to traffic causing quite a massive jam. Traffic was smooth once we entered town area. Around 5.30 pm we reached Golden Crown Hotel and checked in for tonight at a rate of Rm92/night.

(Arriving in Hatyai in late afternoon)

(Our lodging for the Night)

We had dinner of beef and chicken murtabak at Restoran Khaled next door. Later we went for an hour of therapeutic body massage at Four Season.

👈RT 11: Hua Hin - Chumphon

       RT 13: Hat Yai- Narathiwat👉

13 Route 12: Narathiwat

"Keep your face always toward the sunshine - and shadows will fall behind you..." - Walt Whitman

(The long-horn cattle pulling a cart)

Day 13: 30 April 2025 (Wednesday)

Route: Hatyai - Narathiwat

Distance: 200 km

Hotel: The Imperial Hotel, Narathiwat

(Nasi dagang for breakfast)

(Leaving the town of Hatyai)

(Another Muslim eatery, a bit out of the way)

This morning we planned to drive to Narathiwat via Songkhla and Pattani and will visit a few attractions along the way. Our first visit was to the Central Mosque of Songkhla Province, sits halfway along the main highway connecting Hatyai and Songkhla city. The modern building, inspired by classical Mughal architecture, boasts a symmetrical design with a central gold dome atop a large square building flanked by four detached minarets overlooking a large rectangular pool. It was a popular landmark for both local and foreign tourists.

(We have visited this mosque many times)

(Majestically impressive landmark)

In songkhla, we visited Masjid Ban Bon - Usasan Islam located in Songkhla Old Town. This quaint mosque built in 1850 sits in Songkhla's historic Muslim area, displaying fascinating Thai and Chinese architectural features.

(Street decoration typically during Ramadhan)

(Masjid Ban Bon Usasan Islam, Songkhla)

(Wall decorations at the mosque compound)

Masjid Usasan Islam is the oldest mosque in the city and used to be the central mosque of Songkhla Province. This mosque is uniquely beautiful. The mosque is surrounded by halal food stalls and restaurants offering delicious meals at reasonable prices.

(The beautiful mosque against the blue sky)

(It was built around 1850, the oldest in the city)

(The old well of Masjid Usasan Islam, Songkhla)

After visiting the old mosque, we wandered through narrow streets where quaint old houses of Sino-Portuguese style and traditional wooden Chinese buildings lined the streets. Some have been restored and are home to little picturesque boutique cafes and restaurants, and others remain in their glorious preserved original state kept for their historical significance. 

(Songkhla Old Town Gate)

( The history of Songkhla Old Town)

Songkhla old town has a growing collection of good quality wall murals painted on the side of old buildings aged up to 200 years old. Inhabited by close knitted community of largely Thai-Chinese and Thai-Muslim people many of whose who ancestors came to Songkhla in the 18th and 19th Century when it was a prosperous and important sea port with trading links across Asia.

(A mural of a mermaid and dolphins)

(A mural on Nam Ngam Road)

(Collections of wall murals)

(Songkhla Old Town heritage walk)

After a tiring long walk under the scorching sun, we stopped at Akkaneewut Jetty to admire the rustic charm. In the past, this area used to be a port for trading and importing-exporting goods from other countries.

(Detoured to Akkaneewut Jetty)

(Songkhla was once a prosperous and important sea port)

From Songkhla Old Town, we drove on Route 43 towards Pattani and stopped at a PTT in Ko Taeo for comfort and coffee break. Bought fruits and some provisions from the 7-eleven.

(A tame reindeer at the PTT)

We had lunch at Santi Halal Food in Pak Bang Ampho Thepa, Songkhla. We found this halal food outlet on our way to Narathiwat. They served delicious inexpensive food. We ordered tomyam kung, kaiteow and khao pad thale with iced nescafe and tea for lunch.

(Big glasses of iced drinks to quench our thirst)

(Highly recommended for its delicious food)

Before we reached Pattani we visited another attraction, the Yarang Ancient Town. It is one of the biggest historical city in South of Thailand and is also believed to be the location of the Langkasuka empire from the 12th century according to ancient letters of the Chinese, the Malays, and the Arabs. Yarang city's plan is in a shape of a big oval and this city has been constructed on top of three old cities. 

(The Province of Pattani)

(Road blocks at every intervals)

(Visiting the Ancient City of Yarang)

(The entrance to the excavation site)

(The Ancient City layout and history)

(Artefacts on display)

(The detail excavation timeline)

(History of Langkasuka)

(Visiting one of the excavation sites)

From Yarang Ancient City we took the rural road then joined back on highway 42 to Narathiwat. There were many army road blocks along the way but no vehicles were stopped for inspection.

(Driving on the rural road)

(Driving of highway 42 to Narathiwat)

(Welcome to Narathiwat)

(Malaysian riders at the traffic lights

(Cattle for qurban being transported to Malaysia)

We checked in at the Narathiwat Imperial Hotel at THB750/night. We had to pay at the counter eventhough we booked the room on-line. The check-in process was quite slow and we had to wait for a while to get our room ready.

( A long wait at the lobby)

(Our room for the night)

Feeling tired and quite full, we decided to stay in and skip dinner.

👈RT12: Chumphon - Hatyai

RT14: Narathiwat - Kota Bharu👉