Thailand 2025 – Journey Through the Northern Loop...

“Some journeys are not measured by distance, but by the quiet moments that stay with us long after we’ve returned home...”

(Immigration and Custom clearance at the ICQS)

It had been months since our last long road journey, and the idea of driving all the way from Kuala Lumpur into the heart of Thailand filled us with both excitement and quiet anticipation. We planned it carefully - a slow, deliberate loop through the country, taking our time to discover places both familiar and new.

Our route would take us north through Hat Yai, Chumphon, and Bangkok before venturing further into the highlands. We had trodden this path umpteen times. Each stop, we hoped, would bring a fresh glimpse of Thailand’s diverse landscape and the everyday warmth of its people.

Fourteen days, nearly 5,000 km - this northern loop through Thailand would be more than just a leisure drive. It is a reminder of how vast and varied the world can be, and how every road travelled with gratitude becomes part of who we are.

Our Thailand Road Trip itinerary:
(19 November – 6 December 2025)

Part I – From Kuala Lumpur to Northern Thailand
Kuala Lumpur → Hatyai → Chumphon → Bangkok

Part II – Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Northern Hills
Bangkok → Phitsanulok → Chiang Mai → Pai → Tak

Part III – The Return South: Tak to Kuala Lumpur
Tak → Cha-am→ Tungsong → Kuala Lumpur

01 JJCM: Hat Yai - Soaked to the skin...

“The simplest pleasures - good food, a quiet ambiance, the friendly people - set the tone for the whole trip...”

(Spicy tomyam glass noodles)

Part I – From Kuala Lumpur to Northern Thailand

Day 01: 19 November 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: KL – Hat Yai
Hotel: Hat Yai Golden Crown Hotel

We began our journey on the morning of 19 November 2025, leaving our Bidara house just after sunrise. Our Toyota Hi-Lux pickup was packed neatly, and our GPS marked the first destination: Hat Yai. Although my sore throat is far from recovering, still there was excitement in the air - a sense of freedom that only an open road can offer.

Before 10.00 am we stopped at Petronas Simpang Pulai for comfort break. It was raining on and off along the PLUS highway to Changlun where we had our lunch at Cendol Pulut Hj Johari Restoran - rice with tasty gulai itik, kerisi sambal and sweet cendol and ABC, generous with toppings.

After jamak prayers at the old Masjid Ihya Ulumuddin Changlun, refuelling at Petronas and changing some bahts at the CTC, we headed straight to the Bukit Kayu Hitam ICQS. Crossing the Malaysia/Thailand border was smooth with no hassle - a pleasant mixture of relief.

Once in Thailand, the landscape changed subtly - road signs shifted into Thai script. We topped up our sim cards at Danok where small roadside stalls offered aroma of sweet tea and crispy fried chicken.

By late afternoon, we reached Hat Yai and checked into our favorite hotel in Hat Yai, the Golden Crown Hotel at THB770/night, conveniently located with ample on-site parking.

That evening, we walked through the rain toward the Lee Garden night market. The aromas of street food drifted in the air, and the vibrant colours of the souvenirs glowed softly under the dim, neon lights - inviting, even in the downpour. Yet the non-stop rain and the absence of the usual chatter of tourists seemed to dampen not only the market, but also the spirits of the vendors who waited patiently for customers who never quite came.

Escaping the heavy downpour, we slipped into Sawasdee, our favorite massage outlet and treated ourselves to an hour of gentle, relaxing body massage - a warm respite from the cold rain outside. Later, we went to a nearby halal Hamid Restaurant and enjoyed a hot, spicy dinner.

Soaking wet to the skin, we finally made our way back to the hotel, grateful for the comfort of dry clothes and a long, uninterrupted night’s sleep.

02 JJCM: Chumphon - Raining Cats and Dogs...

“Sometimes the beauty of a journey lies not in reaching faraway places, but in rediscovering stillness amid the hustle bustle...”

(Our 4x4 following from a safe distance)

Day 02: 20 November 2025 (Thursday)
Route: Hat Yai - Chumphon
Hotel: Chumphon Euro Boutique Hotel

The following morning, we set off early. After a hearty breakfast at Khaled’s, we continued our drive northward toward Chumphon, watching the landscape soften from city blocks to stretches of rubber trees and quiet small towns. Surprisingly, there were fewer cars on the road despite the rain that was pouring down in sheets.

As we approached Thung Son, traffic began to build. Floodwater had pooled across several stretches of the road, forcing everyone to drive with extra caution. Emergency alerts of flash floods kept appearing on our phones, confirming what we were seeing - the low-lying areas were rapidly being inundated. A few houses were already submerged in several feet of water, and stalled cars sat abandoned by the roadside.

(A screen shot of the alert)

(The start of the long crawl)

(The flood water is rising fast)

(Our Bigfoot braving the knee-deep water)

We inched through the crawl for nearly an hour, but thankfully our 4-wheel drive managed to push through the flooded section without trouble. After that tense stretch, we made a comfort stop and treated ourselves to steaming hot cups of coffee, each sip helping to calm our nerves. We pressed on, eager to outrun the rain and the rising water.

(A hot cup of coffee at PT Tha Chana)

What a relief it was to arrive in Chumphon under unexpectedly clear skies, with no trace of the storm we had just escaped.

For the night, we checked into the Euro Boutique Hotel - a comfortable and reasonably priced stay at THB 750 per night. Its central location was perfect, with the night market, shopping malls, and the Nurul Anah Mosque all within easy reach. Just across the street was Farida Cha Roti Halal Restaurant, where we enjoyed a simple yet satisfying dinner - murtabak with beef curry and crispy krup krap roti, washed down with hot honey-lemon tea and milk coffee to warm our bodies after the long, wet day.

03 JJCM: Bangkok - Lost in the hustle and bustle...

“Even in the largest cities, we found quiet alcoves — a narrow alley, a shaded café - where the day could be spent leisurely...”

(The Islamic Centre of Thailand)

Part II – Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Northern Hills

Day 03: 21 November 2025 (Friday)
Route: Chumphon – Bangkok
Hotel: NASA Bangkok Hotel
 
After a simple breakfast at the 7-Eleven, we continued our long drive toward Bangkok. This would be the longest stretch of the southern leg - nearly 500 kilometres of steady highways and shifting landscapes. As the hours passed, the scenery gradually transformed, from glimpses of coastline to quiet countryside and small provincial towns.

By midday we reached Phetchaburi, where we stopped for lunch at Restoran Fareda Pattani - nasi lauk for both of us. Afterwards, we performed our jamak prayers at a nearby Bangchak petrol station, just a few kilometres down the road. Our journey resumed smoothly until an accident at the cloverleaf junction to Samut Songkhram brought traffic to a complete halt. Everyone waited patiently as workers cleared heaps of wooden planks that had spilled across the road from a lorry. Once the debris was removed, the highway opened up again, and the rest of the drive flowed effortlessly.

By late afternoon, the dense urban sprawl of Bangkok began to unfold before us. Even with the familiar congestion, the city’s energy — vibrant, restless, unmistakably Bangkok - never failed to amaze us. We checked in for three nights at NASA Bangkok Hotel at THB590/night, ideally located just across from the Ramkhamhaeng Station on the Airport Rail Link. A skywalk connects directly to the hotel, making it incredibly convenient to explore the city. The room was spacious, equipped with comfortable amenities, and the hotel offered ample free parking - a blessing after a long day on the road.

Once we had settled in, we headed out for dinner at Sophia Halal Restaurant, just a ten-minute walk away and well-known for its Thai-Malay favourites.

The Foundation of the Islamic Centre of Thailand lay along our route, so we made a small detour to capture a few photographs. Date trees lined the entrance in perfect symmetry, their tall silhouettes creating a cool, soothing welcome. By the time we arrived, dusk had settled over Bangkok, and the soft glow of the lights illuminated the elegant complex - the main building and its adjoining mosque standing serenely against the fading sky.

We didn’t linger. Hunger had begun to nag at us after the long, tiring drive north. Sophia’s was our next stop - and though the à la carte dishes weren’t the finest we’ve tasted, they were warm, hearty, and exactly what our weary bodies needed. Sometimes, after a full day on the road, comfort matters more than perfection.

04 JJCM: Bangkok – Markets, Malls and the Maze of Trains

"Every journey begins with a small crossing — sometimes of borders, sometimes of comfort zones...”

(An imposing golden serpent at MBK Mall)

Day 04: 22 November 2025 (Saturday)
Route: Bangkok Free and Easy
Hotel: NASA Bangkok Hotel

On our second day, we took the ARL and MRT to Chatuchak Weekend Market. As expected, it was crowded with locals and tourists, but we managed to pick up a few souvenirs and enjoyed a much-needed foot and shoulder massage.  Had nasi goreng and tom yum kung at one of the halal stall in Chatuchak.

By midday, the weather grew more intense, so we rode the train to MBK Mall. Our first mission was to find the prayer room, and once prayers were done, we allowed ourselves a relaxed wander through the mall. We weren’t looking for anything in particular, and after some time the endless rows of shops - crowded, loud, and selling much of the same merchandise - felt more tiring than exciting.

The crowds, repetitive merchandise and endless walking quickly wore us out. A cold smoothie from a sidewalk stall gave us a short burst of energy, but navigating between malls proved confusing - we circled the same areas more than once, and the stairs took a toll on our tired feet.

By evening, we tried searching for halal street food and the night market but found neither. Exhausted, we settled for dinner at Yana Restaurant in MBK. The river cruise was skipped altogether.

Returning to the hotel became another challenge. The station was crowded, the ticket queue was long, and we mistakenly bought the wrong tickets several times, forcing us to retrace our steps. Frustrated but relieved, we finally reached our hotel safely - ending a most tiring day in Bangkok.

05 JJCM: Bangkok – Mosque Trails Along the Chao Phraya...

“Even in the busiest cities, peace appears when we travel with intention...”

(The oldest mosque in Thailand)

Day 05: 23 November 2025 (Sunday)
Route: Bangkok Mosque Hunting
Hotel: NASA Bangkok Hotel

On the third day in Bangkok, we set out for a quieter kind of adventure - mosque hunting - exploring one in the city centre and two along the Chao Phraya River.

Our morning began at Darul Aman Mosque, its elegant minarets and intricate calligraphy instantly capturing our attention. Originally established as an Islamic school, the mosque has long played a role in nurturing Islamic learning and values. After performing our jamak prayers, we enjoyed a simple, comforting lunch of nasi goreng and nasi lemak at Rotinis Halal Restaurant next door.

Under Bangkok’s shimmering skyline, next we cruised on an express ferry from Sathorn Pier to Si Phraya Pier. A short walk led us to Haroon Mosque, one of the city’s oldest Muslim enclaves. Despite Bangkok’s constant rush, the mosque offered a surprising sense of calm - a reminder that serenity can still be found in the heart of a restless city.

From Si Phraya, two ferry rides took us across the river to Wat Arun Pier. From there, we made our way to the beautiful Ton Son Jami Mosque, founded in 1688 and considered one of the oldest mosques in Bangkok and Thailand. Once a raised teak house roofed with terracotta tiles, the mosque remains a cherished symbol of early Muslim heritage. We took our time touring and photographing its peaceful interior, grateful for the rare glimpse into its centuries-old past.

By the time we made our way back, dusk had settled over the river. The heat, long walks, and ferry rides had worn us down. We took the MRT and ARL back toward the hotel, and with the last of our energy, stopped at Indian Bites Restaurant for a late dinner - warm garlic cheese naan and dhall curry that tasted especially comforting after such a full day.

A day of movement, faith, and gentle discoveries - each mosque revealing a different story woven into the corners of Bangkok.

06 JJCM: Phitsanulok - The Gentle Rhythm of Ordinary Life...

“In smaller towns, we found a kind of peace that no landmark could offer...”

(Having tea with Santa Bear in the woods)

Day 06: 24 November 2025 (Monday)
Route: Bangkok – Phitsanulok
Hotel: Phitsanulok Polkadot Hotel

After three nights in Bangkok, we left early for Phitsanulok, grateful for the shift from the city’s bustle to the countryside’s calm. The northern route promised cooler weather, rolling hills, and a quieter rhythm — a welcome contrast to the capital’s restless pace. We cruised steadily along Highway 32, stopping at a PTT rest area for a simple coffee break to ease the monotony of the long drive.

By noon, we made a short detour to Restoran Aminyan in Nakhon Sawan for lunch, only to find it closed — as were the neighbouring halal eateries. Since neither of us were particularly hungry, we decided to continue straight to Phitsanulok.

By mid-afternoon, we reached the peaceful provincial city set along the Nan River. We checked into Polkadot Café & Hotel, a small boutique stay with secure parking — simple, comfortable, and instantly welcoming after hours on the road. Its location was ideal, just steps away from the Pakistan Mosque and surrounded by various halal dining options. The rate was an unexpected delight at only THB 560 per night.

After settling in, we walked to Pattani Halal Restaurant nearby for a late lunch. I ordered my usual fried rice and ox-tail soup — familiar comfort food that somehow tastes a little better when shared after a hot, sunny day on the road.

Later in the evening, we wandered out again to a small halal stall. Their roti pisang cheese came highly recommended, and it lived up to its praise. As night fell, we lingered a while, enjoying the welcome coolness in the air — a gentle reward at the end of a long travel day.

07 JJCM: Chiang Mai - Lost in the lanes of the Night Markets...

"We walked by the water and left the day’s tiredness behind. Rivers don’t hurry - and neither did we...”

(A painting at the Anusarn Night Market)

Day 07: 25 November 2025 (Tuesday)
Route: Phitsanulok – Lampang – Chiang Mai
Hotel: B2 Riverside Colonial Hotel, Chiang Mai

The following morning, we continued our journey to Chiang Mai, taking our time to appreciate the scenic views along Highway 11. By noon, we made a short detour to Lampang. At the Al-Falahu Mosque, we paused for prayers, then enjoyed a hearty lunch at Gor Lae Bang Nara Halal Restaurant just nearby.

Sleepiness crept in after the heavy meal, but we pushed on toward Chiang Mai, eager to reach our destination, check in, and straighten our backs. The city welcomed us with cool mountain air and leafy boulevards — a refreshing change after the long drive.

For the next two nights, we stayed at the B2 Riverside Colonial Hotel, beautifully set along the Ping River at THB 940 per night. After a good rest, we took a leisurely walk to Anusarn Night Market. The evening stroll by the river was soothing, the cool weather making every step feel unhurried.

Being a weekday, the market wasn’t overly crowded, giving us the chance to wander freely, explore the night bazaar, and watch the world drift by as we enjoyed a light dinner at a nearby halal stall.

08 JJCM: Chiang Mai - Mosques, Malls & Quiet Moments...

“Some places disappear, but the memories stay exactly where we left them...”

(Easy way to wonder around Chiang Mai)

Day 08: 26 November 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: Chiang Mai Mosque Hunting
Hotel: B2 Riverside Colonial Hotel, Chiang Mai

Our second day in Chiang Mai began with the simple plan of visiting a few mosques and perhaps wandering through a couple of shopping malls. We drove toward Hilal Street and parked at Masjid Hidayatul Islam Ban Haw, a corner of the city that always feels familiar.

To our surprise, Sophia Halal Restaurant - a favourite from our riding days was gone. The building had been demolished, replaced by a construction site preparing for something new. Standing there, I felt a small wave of nostalgia. So many meals, so many memories, suddenly replaced by scaffolding and dust.

We walked over to Alee's Roti for breakfast. The warm, flaky roti telur and roti mixed fruits paired wonderfully with hot cups of coffee, cha-ron, and a hearty bowl of chicken curry. The simple meal gave us a gentle start to the day.

After breakfast, we continued our mini mosque tour to Masjid Al Jamiah (Chang Khlan) and Masjid Nurul Chang Phuek (Masjid Kunnun). Both mosques sat within lively neighbourhoods filled with halal restaurants and small eateries. It wasn’t lunchtime yet, but it was comforting to see how vibrant the Muslim community remained around these areas.

We then drove to One Nimman, a unique mall showcasing local crafts and handmade souvenirs. Its creative atmosphere and boutique shops were fun to explore. Afterward, we crossed over to Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre, but nothing really caught our attention, so we didn’t linger.

By lunchtime we were back on Hilal Street, enjoying a simple meal at Roummit 2 Halal Restaurant - omelette rice and tom yum kung. Back at the hotel, I drifted into a much-needed nap while hubby went for an hour-long foot massage next door.

Tonight, we initially thought of taking a stroll to the Kalare Night Market, but in the end we stayed in, settling for a shared bowl of instant mee while watching the evening news. A dedicated channel was broadcasting continuous updates on the worsening floods in Southern Thailand. Rescue and evacuation efforts were underway, yet our hearts felt heavy thinking of fellow Malaysians still trapped in Hatyai and Songkhla. The floodwaters showed no sign of receding.

Just a week ago, we left Hatyai under pouring rain - now we realise how fortunate we are to be travelling north, away from the disaster zone and its rising waters.

We turned in early tonight, hoping sleep would quieten the growing worry. As we lay in the cool comfort of Chiang Mai’s night air, we pray and wish the same calm could reach those facing the storm. May tomorrow bring better news, and may Chiang Mai’s gentle weather soothe our unsettled hearts, even if just a little.

09 JJCM: Pai - A tranquil Escape, a Therapy For The Soul...

"Up here, every bend felt like a new secret — the kind you tell each other over coffee.”

(A signage of Pai's 762 curves)

Day 09: 27 November 2025 (Thursday)
Route: Chiang Mai - Pai
Hotel: Pai Friendly Resort

From Chiang Mai, we continued our journey to Pai - a scenic mountain drive of winding roads, lush greenery, and endless curves that would challenge even the strongest stomach. The air grew cooler as we climbed, and the landscape shifted into a serene, almost untouched beauty.

Our first stop in town was the mosque serving the local Muslim community. At Masjid Al-Isra, we parked our 4x4 and performed our prayers, grateful for the calmness after the long, twisting drive. Lunch followed at Mukmin Halal Restaurant along Pai Walking Street, just a short stroll from the mosque. Simple plates of fried rice and red curry tasted especially comforting after the morning’s journey.

We checked in for two nights at Pai Friendly Resort at THB 995 per night, a small boutique hideaway with basic amenities. The room was clean and cosy, and the swimming pool offered a refreshing escape during hotter days.

As the sun dipped, we took a leisurely 15-minute walk to Pai Walking Street. The air was crisp, almost chilly, a welcome contrast to Chiang Mai’s warmth. The evening unfolded gently as we browsed the vibrant stalls - bright fabrics, handmade crafts, and the lively chatter of tourists filling the streets.

We ended the night with roti banana cheese and roti Nutella paired with hot tea from a roadside halal stall, enjoying the colourful bustle of the night market as the cool breeze drifted through.

A simple, perfect Pai evening to end our long tiring day.

10 JJCM: Pai – A Slow Day in the Countryside...

“Travel teaches us to follow the road as it bends, trusting that every detour still leads us somewhere meaningful...”

(A coffee shop at Pai Walking Street)

Day 10: 28 November 2025 (Friday)
Route: Pai Free & Easy
Hotel: Pai Friendly Resort

There are days in travel that ask nothing more from us than to slow down - to breathe, to wander, and to enjoy what unfolds naturally. Today in Pai was one of those days.

The chilly mountain air nudged us into town early. We found comfort in bowls of steamy chicken porridge and crispy fried charkoi from a small Muslim stall - simple, hearty food that warmed our hands and spirits.

As we ate, the morning brightened with a parade of cheerful kindergarten children, dressed colourfully and carrying posters of the late Queen Mother of Thailand. Their joyful chatter drifted through the street, a charming glimpse into local life.

After breakfast, we wandered toward the Pai River. The bamboo bridge creaked softly beneath us as we crossed, pausing to take a few pictures of the quiet flowing water and the gentle countryside that surrounded it. It was a moment that felt suspended in time.

Our light itinerary took us next to the iconic Memorial Bridge. Originally built during World War II as part of a strategic supply route linking Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son, the bridge has since been reconstructed. Yet its rustic wooden planks and weathered steel frame still preserve the spirit of the past. We bought a couple of Pai T-shirts from nearby stalls - small keepsakes of this peaceful corner of Thailand.

The Pai Big Buddha, perched on its hill overlooking the valley, was undergoing major restoration work. We didn’t climb the stairs, but we still admired the peaceful presence of the hilltop shrine from below.

Back at the resort, I surrendered to a refreshing power nap, while hubby made his way to the mosque for Friday prayers. By evening, we found ourselves strolling along Walking Street once more - its night market alive with colour, music, and the familiar scent of street food.

Dinner was a comforting repeat at Mukmin Restaurant: fried rice and green curry. Then an hour of therapeutic foot massage eased the last bit of travel fatigue before we walked back to our resort for a good night’s rest.

As the day ended, we reviewed the latest news of flooding in Southern Thailand and the possibility of worsening conditions in Malaysia. With that, we’ll need to revise our original routing plan - a reminder that the road often shifts, and travel sometimes means adapting as we go.

11 JJCM: Tak - a quiet town, even the heart slows down to listen....

“Some mornings stay with us - not for what we planned, but for what we stumbled upon...”

( A mini Stonehenge at a PTT R&R)

Day 11: 29 November 2025 (Saturday)
Route: Pai – Tak
Hotel: Tak Berich Hotel

A change in routing this morning led us to retrace our path back toward Chiang Mai. The familiar bends and curves of Route 1095 greeted us once more, a reminder of yesterday’s winding adventure through the 762 curves of the Pai–Chiang Mai road. After bracing those serpentine turns, we pulled into a PTT station - partly to stretch our stiff backs, partly to savour a tall, cool latte under the bright, unclouded sky.

Our journey continued with a comforting sense of déjà vu on Route 11. Lunch and prayer took us again to the same halal restaurant and mosque in Lampang, a familiar stop that offered both rest and routine before we pressed on for the long drive south.

By late afternoon, we reached Tak - quiet, serene, and resting gently along the Ping River. Tak’s charm lay not in grand attractions, but in its unhurried spirit. It felt like a place untouched by haste, where the rhythm of life softened into something simple and soothing.

We checked in at Berich Hotel, where the friendly hosts welcomed us with the warmth of a small-town stay. The deluxe twin room was spacious and comfortable, and at THB 835 per night with complimentary breakfast, it felt like an unexpected little find.

Evening unfolded slowly. No rush, no crowds - just the faint hum of a tranquil Thai town settling into night. Still full and too lazy to wander out again, we enjoyed a simple dinner of assorted buns and pastries with iced coffee in the comfort of our room. It was the kind of quiet night that felt like a gentle pause between journeys, where the world outside moved unhurriedly, and time seemed to breathe.

12 JJCM: Cha-am - Chasing Elusive Sunsets...

"Dance with the waves, move with the sea, let the rhythm of the water set your soul free..."

(Another day, another sunset)

Part III – The Return South: Tak to Kuala Lumpur

Day 12: 30 November 2025 (Sunday)
Route: Tak - Cha-am
Hotel: Happy Field Resort, Cha-am

Leaving Tak, we felt both grateful and wistful - the kind of feeling that often accompanies the nearing end of a long journey. From the town, the road stretched smooth and easy, weaving through green farmland and quiet provincial communities. It was a long driving day, so we planned frequent stops to break the 570-kilometre stretch.

From the fertile plains, we chose to avoid cutting across the busy capital city of Bangkok. Instead, we followed Route 1 and later Route 35 toward the southern coast which exit at Samut Sakhon. Though bumpy in parts and not in the best condition, this route was still faster and more pleasant than the heavily trafficked Sirat Expressway.

A late lunch awaited us at a halal eatery inside the PTT station at Khlong Khon in Samut Songkhram - simple plate of fried rice and a bowl of beef soup noodles, tasty enough to fill our hungry tummies after hours on the road.

By late afternoon, we reached Cha-am, relieved and happy to once again breathe the familiar coastal air. Our stay for the night was at Happy Field Resort at THB 780 per night. Just off Route 4 the resort is a quiet and beautiful spot set in the heart of expansive rice fields. The tranquillity of the surroundings felt like a gentle embrace after the long journey.

The room was spacious, the bed comfortably large, and the décor added a touch of warmth - a truly welcome sight at the end of a full day’s drive.

Indonesia 2025: Tracing The Footsteps of Wali Songo

"Education is what remains after one has forgotten what one has learned in school..." - Albert Einstein

(The nine Wali Songo)

My husband and I have always loved discovering new places, but this time our travels took on a much deeper meaning. We joined a group of fellow travelers on a six-day journey across Java to trace the history of the Wali Songo — the nine revered Muslim scholars whose dakwah shaped the spread of Islam in Indonesia.

Starting in Surabaya, we set out along the Pantai Utara Road toward Jakarta, stopping at the tombs of the wali along the way. Each visit felt like more than just sightseeing; it was a spiritual reminder of faith, history, and the sacrifices made centuries ago. Each tomb carrying not just history, but a quiet presence that stirred something within the heart.

It was more than just a trip. At every stop, between the prayers, the stories, and the shared silences, I felt a deep reminder of faith, humility, and the legacy of those who came before us. The long drives gave us time to reflect, while the companionship of others made the journey even more memorable.

Each visit to the tombs was physically and mentally challenging - a journey that called for stamina, patience and perseverance. It humbled you, inside and out.

(Jejak Wali Songo routing)

The 6-day Jejak Wali Songo itinerary:
(08 - 13 October 2025)
Day 01: KL - Surabaya
Day 02: Surabaya – Gresik - Tuban
Day 03: Tuban - Kudus – Demak - Semarang
Day 04: Semarang - Cirebon
Day 05: Cirebon - Jakarta
Day 06: Jakarta - KL

Java is not foreign to me. This recent journey was, in fact, my fourth visit to Indonesia’s most populous island. My first encounter with Java was in 2002, when I accompanied my husband on his work assignment and spent a short but memorable weekend in Jakarta. Five years later, in 2007, I returned - this time with my son Iwan, his wife Ella, and Ella’s mother Normah - for a shopping getaway in Jakarta and Bandung. It was also a sweet honeymoon treat for the newlyweds. Then in 2008, my husband and I joined the BNM Puspanita group for a tour of Central Java, exploring the royal cities of Surakarta and Yogyakarta, and standing in awe before the timeless beauty of Borobudur.

This fourth trip, however, felt different - deeper and more meaningful.

Next Trip: 2025 Thailand - Journey Through the Northern Loop

01 Wali Songo: Surabaya - The City of Heroes...

"Never wish life were easier, wish that you were better..." - Jim Rohn

(The entrance to the Monument of Heroes)

Day 01: 08 Oct 2025 (Wednesday)
Route: Kuala Lumpur – Surabaya
Flight: QZ 321 KUL 0910/SUB 1045 (Air Asia)
Hotel: Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya

Tonight, I tried to sleep early, but the excitement of our upcoming trip kept me wide awake. The alarm was set for 2:00 a.m., and when it rang, I woke up with a groggy head and heavy eyes. By 3:00 a.m., we were already at Masjid at-Tayyibin, joined by five others who would be traveling with us. Earlier, we had arranged for a rental van to take the seven of us to the airport in the quiet, still hours before dawn.

The streets were almost empty as our van cruised the highway. Despite the drowsiness, there was a sense of shared excitement among us - a quiet anticipation of the journey ahead.

When we finally reached the airport, the terminal was calm but alive with travelers catching early flights. As we waited for the rest to arrive, we wandered over to the Mamak Express stall, our steps heavy with sleep. A steaming cup of teh tarik and a shared plate of fragrant nasi lemak were just what we needed to shake off the morning drowsiness.

(The break of dawn at KLIA2)

(Having breakfast at Mamak Express)

We gathered for a briefing by Morza Travel Tour Leader. After checking in and dropping off our luggage, we went to the surau for Subuh prayers. It was still dark outside, but in our hearts, the day had already begun.

The 9:10 a.m. Air Asia flight departed ahead than schedule. We had our inflight pre-ordered meal of nasi lemak in a jiffy amid the mild turbulance over Java Sea.

(Nasi Lemak Pak Nasser on board of Air Asia)

At 10:15 a.m. local time we landed at Juanda Airport, Surabaya - the third busiest airport in Indonesia after Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta and Denpasar's Ngurah Rai. The airport is located approximately 12 km from downtown Surabaya. At the arrival hall we were greeted by Pak Ady, Morza Travel representative.

(The jovial Pak Ady)

As it was already noon, we went straight to Kedai Makan Sederhana for lunch - a popular local spot in Surabaya known for its nasi padang and an array of mouth-watering dishes. I treated myself to my favourite thick and sweet alpukat drink.

(Kedai Makan Sederhana)

(A spread of Nasi Padang dishes)

From the restaurant, we travelled about 4 km to visit the tomb of Raden Ahmad Rahmatullah, better known as Sunan Ampel (1401–1481). As the road was quite narrow, we took an angkut (local minivan) to get closer without having to walk far. The tomb stands beside the Ampel Mosque, built by Sunan Ampel in 1421 - one of the oldest mosques in East Java.

(A fleet of Angkot waiting for customers)

(Cramming into a small space)

The mosque and tomb complex blend Javanese and Arab architecture, with a multi-tiered tajug-style roof, teak pillars, and several gapura gates leading to a walled courtyard lined with bustling market stalls. As Asar prayer time approached, the tomb entrance was briefly closed, and some of us joined the jemaah for prayers before returning to recite doa at the tomb.

(Arriving at the Complex of Sunan Ampel)

(The gate is closed - will be open after prayers)

(Photo opportunity at one of the five Gapura Gates)

(Performing Asar prayers at Sunan Ampel Mosque)

(The beduk at the mosque)

Sunan Ampel founded the Ampel Denta Islamic school and taught future Wali Songo such as Sunan Bonang and Sunan Giri. He also introduced the moral principle of “Moh Limo” - ora moh main (no gambling), ora moh ngombe (no drinking alcohol), ora moh maling (no stealing), ora moh madat (no opium), and ora moh madon (no adultery).

(Visitors reciting the doa)

(The tomb of Sunan Ampel)

(Drinking water known to heal diseases)

Our next stop was the Mohammad Cheng Hoo Mosque, a beautiful symbol of harmony between Chinese and Islamic culture. Built in honour of Admiral Cheng Hoo (Zheng He), the great Chinese Muslim explorer, the mosque features pagoda-style roofs and is adorned in red, green, and yellow hues. Though modest in size, with a capacity of about 200 worshippers, it exudes a calm and graceful atmosphere - a peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Surabaya. Those who did not pray at Sunan Ample mosque, performed their jamak prayers here.

(The minaret is inspired by the Chinese pagoda)

(Vibrant colour of bright red, yellow and jade green)

(Cheng Hoo mural on the wall)

Visited Monkasel also known as the Submarine Monument. The museum consists primarily of one of Indonesia's first submarines, the Pasopati 410. The Russian Whiskey class submarine was built in Vladivostok in 1952 and purchased by Indonesia in 1962 and saw service in the campaign to force the Dutch out of Irian Jaya (New Guinea). The sub had never fired any of its torpedoes. It was only decommissioned in 1990. In 1995, the sub was converted into a museum.

(Monkasel - Monumen Kapal Selam, Surabaya)

(The Russian Whisky class submarine)

(Cut into 16 pieces and reassembled)

(Small openings between compartments)

(The torpedos were never fired)

Before leaving for dinner, we made a brief stop at the Surabaya Monument, famously featuring the shark and crocodile - the two creatures that symbolize the city. The striking white statue depicts a fierce battle between the shark (sura) and the crocodile (baya), from which Surabaya takes its name. Surrounded by trees and city bustle, the monument stands proudly as a reminder of Surabaya’s spirit of courage and resilience.

(The Surabaya Monument)

Surabaya is the capital city of East Java, Indonesia, and the country’s second-largest city after Jakarta. Known as the “City of Heroes” (Kota Pahlawan), it played a vital role in Indonesia’s struggle for independence, especially during the 1945 Battle of Surabaya. Today, Surabaya is a vibrant port city combining rich history with modern development. It features colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, modern malls, and cultural landmarks. The city is also a gateway to Mount Bromo and other East Java attractions.

Dinner was at Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa, where we enjoyed a hearty local meal before heading to our hotel. We checked into the Neo Gubeng Hotel in Surabaya, feeling tired and completely worn out after a long day. A quick shower was all it took before sleep came almost instantly.

(Kedai Makan Ayam Bakar Prima Rasa)

(Neo Gubeng Hotel, Surabaya)

(Spacious and cosy room)

👈 Indonesia 2025: Tracing The Footsteps of Wali Songo...

02 Wali Songo: Tuban - The Land of Ronggolawe Majapahit... 👉

02 Wali Songo: Tuban - The Land of Ronggolawe Majapahit...

"You don't have to see the whole staircase, just take the first step..." - Martin Luther King Jr.

(Diving into the spiritual depth of Java history)

Day 02: 09 Oct 2025 (Thursday)
Route: Surabaya - Gresik - Tuban
Hotel: Fave Hotel, Tuban

The 4.00 a.m. alarm rang softly in the stillness of dawn, calling us to rise for Subuh prayers. After prayer, I sat quietly with the Quran, reading a few verses that filled the heart with calm. It was a peaceful beginning - a moment of still reflection before another full day on our spiritual trail through Java.

By sunrise, the group gathered for breakfast. A plate of fluffy omelettes and toast, a bowl of warm porridge, and sweet pastries awaited us. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee - though just one simple blend - felt comforting. After checking out of the hotel, we boarded the bus, our spirits light, ready to continue the Wali Songo journey.

(Feeling refreshed early in the morning)

(A heavy breakfast before the journey)

Our path led us toward Gresik, an ancient port town northwest of Surabaya. Long ago, traders from China, Arabia, and India docked here, bringing not only goods but also the first whispers of Islam to Java. Today, Gresik remains a place where faith and history breathe together - a town where industry meets devotion.

From the bus park, we took two small angkot vans up the winding road toward Gunung Giri, where Sunan Giri (1442–1506) rests. The climb up the steep steps tested our strength, yet every step felt like a prayer. Around us, visitors moved quietly - some elderly, some young -  their faces serene, their whispers of doa carried by the wind. When we finally reached the tomb, the air felt heavy with reverence.

(104 steps to reach the top)

(Another couple of stairs to reach the tomb)

(One for the album)

Sunan Giri, also known as Raden Paku, was not only a scholar but also a teacher whose influence reached far beyond Java — to Lombok, Makassar, and the Maluku Islands. He founded the Giri Islamic School, where faith, leadership, and compassion flourished. I felt humbled standing there, imagining the light of his teachings still glowing centuries later.

(The tomb of Sunan Giri)

(A single tomb within the curtained enclosure)

A short drive away stood the Tomb of Sunan Gresik (1350–1419), known also as Maulana Malik Ibrahim. The site was peaceful, shaded by old trees and surrounded by gentle quiet. His marble gravestone, carved in the elegant style of Gujarat, reminded us of his origins - a man who came from distant Kashan, bringing not only trade but also the message of Islam through kindness, farming, and service to the people.

(The Complex of Sunan Gresik)

(The tomb of Sunan Gresik)

Nearby lay the Tomb of Temenggong Poesponegoro, the first Regent of Gresik. The low entrance forced every visitor to bow, a symbolic gesture of humility before the greats who came before.

(The tomb of Temenggong Poesponegoro)

(A slab of stone with old Java writings)

By noon, hunger led us to Samorasso Nasi Padang. As plates of spicy rendang, sambal, and vegetables filled the table, the familiar flavours of Padang cuisine warmed our spirits. Hot jasmine tea soothed the weariness of travel.

(Kedai Makan Samorasso - Nasi Padang)  

(Crispy fried ayam kampung)

(The restaurant motto on the wall)

We continued along the Pantura Road, which threads through Java’s northern coast. Along the way, we stopped at Masjid Akbar Moed’har Arifin, a grand mosque in Desa Sekapuk. With its elegant blue domes and open courtyards, it serves not only as a house of worship but also a resting place for travellers like us. Standing there, I felt gratitude - for the journey, for safety, for faith that connects us all.

(Masjid Akbar Moed'har Arifin in Desa Sekapuk)

(Reflections of the colourful dome on the floor)

(Beautiful garden surrounding the mosque)

In Paciran Village, Lamongan, we visited the Tomb of Sunan Drajat (1470–1522). His resting place, built on seven terraces, symbolizes the steps toward spiritual purity. A cool breeze drifted through the carved wooden gates as visitors whispered their prayers. Nearby, the museum displayed artefacts and musical instruments once used by the wali -  reminders of how he spread Islam not through force, but through compassion, art, and music.

(The signage leading to the tomb)

(A long climb to the top)

(The main door to the inner chamber)

(Excerpts from Sunan Drajat 'Catur Piwulang')

(Spacious hall around the tomb)

(Visitors reciting the doa)

(The Museum of Sunan Drajat)

(The old beduk in the museum)

(Historical artefacts on display)

By late afternoon, the road brought us to Tuban, the “City of a Thousand Caves.” This coastal town has long been a cradle of Islam in Java - its sands touched by history and faith. Behind the Great Mosque of Tuban lies the Tomb of Sunan Bonang (1465–1525). From the bus terminal, we rode on the rickshaws through narrow streets to reach the Sunan Bonang Complex.

(The rickshaw seat is too small for two adults)

(A convoy of rickshaws on the road)

Sunan Bonang, the son of Sunan Ampel, was a scholar, artist, and mystic who used gamelan melodies to spread the message of Islam. His tomb, adorned with carved gates and floral motifs, radiated quiet dignity. Nearby stood the “Qur’an Well,” believed to carry blessings. I dipped my hand into the cool water, feeling a deep calm - a reminder that knowledge and devotion, like water, flow endlessly through time.

(The entrance to Sunan Bonang Complex)

(Another Gapura gate)

(The entrance to the private chamber)

(The tomb of Sunan Bonang)

(Large jars to hold water from Sunan Bonang well)

(Drinking water from the Quran Well)

(The Tuban Grand Mosque, separated by a wall)

(A beautiful night view of Masjid Agung Tuban)

(Taking the beca back to Tuban Bus Terminal)

As night fell, we had dinner at Kayu Manis Resto, beside our hotel in Tuban. The dishes - crispy talapia, pais ikan terubuk, tomyam, satay, mee goreng - tasted even better after a day of reflection and walking.

(Kayu Manis Restaurant)

(Crispy fried talapia with sambal)

We checked into the Fave Hotel Tuban for the night - a bright, modern place close to the beach. As I lay down, I felt both weary and grateful - each day on this journey revealing not just the history of Java, but also the quiet strength of faith that continues to live within its people.

(The Fave Hotel, Tuban)

(Do Not Disturb)

👈 01 Wali Songo: Surabaya - The City of Heroes...

    03 Wali Songo: Semarang - The Venice of Java... 👉