Afghanistan Autumn Trip

“I don't measure a man's success by how high he climbs but how high he bounces when he hits bottom...” General George S. Patton

Our two week Afghan Autumn Trip will cover most of the major towns such as Kabul, Mazhar-e Sharif, Balkh, Kholm, Bamyan, Herat and Nangarhar and their significance to the Ancient Silk Routes.

Afghanistan is one of my off the beaten track destinations. And people were wondering why on earth we want to venture into this war-torn country.

From a security perspective, Afghanistan has improved a lot and is relatively safe. Afghanistan's history has been dominated by extensive warfare. After the US withdrawal in 2021, the conflict-ravaged country, has seen an increase in tourism since the Taliban returned to power.

For those who love nature, Afghanistan's countryside offers some of the most unspoiled, authentic and mesmerizing scenic landscape with ancient history. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting Afghanistan, when the weather is pleasant across the whole country.

Afghanistan is a landlock country, sharing borders with Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, China and Tajikistan. During this trip, we will be visiting some towns near these borders.

We had to buy a separate travel insurance coverage as our existing travel insurance does not cover Afghanistan because of its notorious reputation.

Afghan Autumn itinerary:
Day 01: KL
Day 02: KL - Sharjah
Day 03: Sharjah - Kabul
DaY 04: Kabul - Mazar-e Sharif
Day 05: Mazar e Sharif - Balkh
Day 06: Mazar e Sharif - Khulm - Kabul
Day 07: Kabul - Bamyan
Day 08: Bamyan - Band e Emir - Kabul
Day 09: Kabul - Herat
Day 10: Herat
Day 11: Herat - Kabul
Day 12: Kabul - Nangarhar
Day 13: Nangarhar - Kabul
Day 14: Kabul - Sharjah
Day 15: Sharjah - KL

Afghan 01: A new adventure...

"Coming together is a beginning; keeping together is progress; working together is success..." - Edward Everett Hale

(Ready to go...)

Day 01: 04 October 2024 (Friday)
Hotel: Hotel Westree KL Sentral

KL was hosting the Tour De langkawi and the Standard Chartered Marathon. Most roads will be closed over the weekend and the jam would be massive. To avoid the jam, we decided to stay the night somewhere near KL Sentral so we could catch the earliest ERL to KLIA. Both the hotel and train tickets were pre-booked on-line earlier.

This afternoon, after Jumaat prayers, we loaded our luggage in the Merc and drove to Hotel Westree KL Sentral located in Little India, Jalan Sambanthan a short walking distance to KL Sentral. The room was small with basic amenities but clean. We had to pay a deposit for rm100 claimable when we check out.

Parked the Merc at our Putramas Apartment and took a grab car to KL Sentral. Had an early dinner at 4- Fingers then walked back to the hotel for a good night sleep.

Afghan 02: Sharjah Stop Over...

"Patience, persistence and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success..." - Napoleon Hill

(Ibis Style Hotel, Sharjah)

Day 02: 05 October 24 (Saturday)
Route: KLIA / SHARJAH
Flight: G9801 KUL 1000 SHJ 1310 Air Arabia
Hotel: Ibis Style Hotel, Sharjah

The alarm woke us at 4.00 am. By 5.15 am we were already at KL Sentral departure hall and took the 5.20 am ERL to KLIA.

Arrived KLIA in time for Subuh prayers. The seven of us gathered at the Departure Hall KLIA at 6.30 am for group check-in. There was a slight problem with hubby's ticket but the error was quickly rectified. There was ample time for the group to have breakfast at the foodcourt.

By 9.30 am we boarded the Air Arabia plane to Sharjah which was supposed to depart at 10.00 am but delayed for 30 minutes. Pre-ordered chicken briyani meals were served for lunch on board.

Arrived in Sharjah Airport around 2:00 pm. Transit in Sharjah was for 14 hours. Sharjah has been named the "Cultural Capital of the Arab World" by UNESCO, in recognition of its efforts to promote Arab culture and heritage. Sharjah is a popular destination for tourists, as it offers a mix of historical, cultural, and natural attractions. It is also a great for shopping. We will be having a city tour in Sharjah on our return trip.

In two taxi, we drove to Ibis Style Hotel and checked in and rest till mid-night. Dinner was Tuna sandwich bought from Subway restaurant located next to the hotel.

Afghan 03: Kabul on the Hippie Trail...

 "To succeed in life, you need two things: ignorance and confidence..." - Mark Twain

(Shah Du Shamshire Mosque)

Day 03: 06 October 2024 (Sunday)
Route: SHARJAH / KABUL
Flight: G9718 SHJ 0300 KBL 0630 Air Arabia
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

By 1:00 am we took two taxi to the Sharjah Airport. We went direct for passport clearance and security check as we already have the boarding pass for our onward journey to Kabul.

Departed to Kabul on Air Arabia G9718 ETD 0300. Safely arrived at Kabul International Airport at 6.15 am. We were met by our local guides Hayatullah and Ismail. Two cars were available for us to get to the Khyber Hotel in Kabul. The weather was a cool 8°C.

Kabul is the capital city of Afghanistan, known for its historical gardens, bazaars, and palaces such as the Gardens of Babur, Darul Aman Palace and the Arg. In the second half of the 20th century, the city became a stop on the hippie trail undertaken by many Europeans and gained the nickname "Paris of Central Asia".

Roti prata and chick pea curry for breakfast at the Queatta Pakistani Restaurant in Kabul. Complemented by a glass of hot white coffee.

After an hour's rest we enjoyed the scenery of Kabul from the roof top of the Khyber Hotel before we went out to explore Kabul city.

Shah Du Shamshire Mosque is called the 'Mosque of the King of Two Swords'. The mosque is located on the bank if Kabul river must be one of the most unusual architecture in Islam. Built in the 1920s during Amanullah's drive for modernisation, it looks like it would be more at home in Versailles or Vienna. The facades are all Italianate baroque with stucco detailing, picked out in white against a lurid lemon yellow paint-job. That it has two storeys is even more peculiar, and only the tiny minarets disclose the building's true purpose. 

The mosque's name is derived from a far older story than Amanullah's strange architectural tastes. In the 7th century Kabul was a Hindu city, besieged by an Arab army. The Arab king was beheaded, but was so inspired by Allah that he continued fighting, leading his men to victory at the point of his two scimitars.

Tomb of Laith Ibn Qais is Next to Shah Du Shamshire Mosque. According to history, when the Muslim army attacked Kabul, Laith Ibn Qays led and commended a section of the Muslim army. The mentioned commander died and was buried at the current place of the mosque. After the conquest, the army performed their first prayer at this place and later built a mosque there. After the Muslim armies broke the Dehmazang wall, the Liath Ibn Qays fought with two swords during the conquest of Kabul.

Darul Aman Palace has nearly a century of historical significance, and is located 8 km from Kabul city. This palace, featuring a three-story building, contains 150 small and large rooms designed in the European architectural style. This historical monument of the country was constructed during the reign of King Amanullah Khan, to the southwest of Chahar Asyab in Kabul, a place previously known as Afshar Tepe.

The National Museum of Afghanistan is a two-story building located across the street from the Darul Aman Palace in the Darulaman area of Kabul, Afghanistan. It was once considered to be one of the world's finest museums.

At Khan Juice Point, freshly squeezed pomegranate, pineapple and mango juice were ordered for the ladies. The men drove to the Zinat Libas Tailor to have their custom-made Afghan kurtas. Supposedly the kurtas can be ready by tonight.

We went back to the Khyber Hotel in Kabul after unsuccessfully attempting to buy local sim cards. Performed our jamak prayers before going out for a Kabuli beef pilaf rice and crispy roasted chicken for dinner at a local Kabul restaurant.

Back at the Khyber Hotel, it was time for a good night's rest before we further explore Kabul tomorrow and take the noon flight to Mazar-e Sharif.

Afghan 04: Mazar-e Sharif Blue Mosque...

"A successful man is one who can lay a firm foundation with the bricks others have thrown at him..." - David Brinkley

(Makam Saidina Ali)

Day 04: 07 October 2024 (Monday)
Route: KABUL / MAZAR-E SHARIF
Flight: RQ141 KBL 1000 MZR 1100 Ariana Afghan Air
Hotel: Samir Walid Guesthouse Mazar Sharif

Breakfast was at the 5th floor of Khyber Hotel. We had Afghan bread with hard boiled eggs, cream cheese, salad, followed by double shot coffee. After breakfast we loaded our bagage in two cars and headed for Barbur Gardens to while away time before our flight to Mazar-e Sharif.

Barbur Gardens was created by the founder of the Mughal dynasty, Ziihir ad-Din Muhammad Biibur, after his conquest of Kabul in 1504, this Bagh-e Babur is possibly one of the earliest surviving Mughal gardens. Laid out by the Mughal ruler Babur in the early 16th century, and the site of his tomb, these gardens are the loveliest spot in Kabul.

Lunch was at a Kabuli Palao restaurant before we headed to the Kabul Airport for our domestic flight on Ariana Afghan Airline to Mazar-e Sherif.

Security at the airport was quite strict. Our bag was isolated and checked thoroughly. We performed our jamak prayers at the airport prayer room before we departed to Mazar-e Sharif. ETA in Mazar-e Sharif was at 11.00 am.

Mazar-e Sharif or just Mazar is a city in Afghanistan and the capital of Balkh Province. It has a population of nearly 300,000 people. Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried. Outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq. A shrine, which was later rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the town of Mazar grew around it.

The town, however, continued to live in the shadow of its larger neighbor, Balkh, until that city was abandoned due to disease in the mid 19th century. As a result, Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region - a position it has maintained ever since.

We went out for dinner of mutton shaslik and bread at Bilal restaurant.

After dinner we walked to the Local Bazaar situated at the north side of the park surrounding the Blue Mosque. It is the main bazaar of this northern Afghan city. It's a chaotic, noisy, busy, and utterly interesting marketplace, with stalls selling almost anything imaginable. Wherever we go we were surrounded by local on-lookers and small kids begging for money or sweets.

After buying fruits and perfume we went back to our hotel by tuk-tuk. Samir Walid Guesthouse, was our accommodations for the next two nights.

Afghan 05: Balkh, a hub of Zorostrianism...

"However difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at..." - Stephen Hawking

(With the locals at Makam Nabi Seth)

Day 05: 08 October 2024 (Tuesday)
Route: MAZAR-E SHARIF/BALKH
Hotel: Samir Walid Guesthouse Mazar Sharif

Breakfast was specially served for our small group in one of the hotel rooms at the upper level.

By 8:00 am we boarded a van and stopped at Information and Culture Centre to obtain our tourist travel permit. We waited for almost an hour for the permit to be approved.

Today we travelled by van to the city of Balkh about 20 km from Mazar-e Sharif. Balkh is a hub of Zoroastrianism and Buddhism, the ancient city was also known to the Persian as Zariaspa and to the Greeks as Bactra, as such, it was famously known as the capital of Bactria. The Italian explorer and writer Marco Polo described Balkh as "a noble city and a great seat of learning" prior to the Mongol conquests.

Most of the town now consists of ruined buildings, situated some 12 km from the right bank of the seasonally flowing Balkh River, at an elevation of about 365 m. While it is one of Afghanistan's ethnically diverse settlements. Tajiks account for a substantial portion of Balkh's populace and have continuously inhabited the site for millennia. The main language of the town is Dari, which is spoken by a significant majority.

The Ancient City tour of Balkh started with a visit to Jalaluddin Balki Culture Park, which is a large park. The Rumi Cultural Park was supposed to be built here; However, its work was started and opened several times, but it was never finished. Recently, the municipality wanted to build the Mazar-e-Sharif peddlers' market here, but it was not done and now it is in a very bad condition

Haji Piyada Mosque or Noh Gonbad Mosque or the Mosque of Nine Cupolas is a historic building in Balkh. It is thought to be the oldest and most important early Islamic-era building in Afghanistan. It stands out as an early example of an innovative style for mosques, influenced by pre-existing Irano-Sassanid patterns. The remaining, rare, stucco decorations are believed to be in early Abbasid or Samanid styles. With all nine domes collapsed, the three standing columns and two arches constitute the architectural and artistic core of the site. Badly damaged by time, the risk of structural failure of the arches in the event of an earthquake is extremely high.

Bal-a Hisar grave is a blue grave of a sufi located on the ancient wall of Balkh. The original Sufis wore simple wool cloaks who represents the mystical dimension of Islam. Sufism may be best described as Islamic mysticism or asceticism, which through belief and practice helps Muslims attain nearness to Allah.

Next we went to pay respect, reverence and homage to Nabi Seth. Seth, was the son of Adam and Eve and a prophet and messenger of Allah. His name means "gift," as he was given to Adam and Hawa as a replacement for their deceased son, Habil. Habil was killed by his brother Qabil out of jealousy and resentment.

We visited the ruins of the house of Jalaluddin Rumi, one of the world's most famous mystics and poets. Rumi was born in the Balkh complex in 1207. The learning site, which comprised a mosque, monastery and madrasa for hundreds of disciples, belonged to his father, the theologian Bahauddin Walad, known by Afghans as Sultan Al-Ulema. Afghan authorities is in the process to rebuild this 13th-century Islamic teaching complex.

The Green Mosque, or Masjid Sabz, or the Mosque of Khawaja Abu Nasr Parsa is a mosque in the city of Balkh. It contains the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa. The mosque's name is derived from the kashi tiles on the walls of the mosque, which are coloured turquoise, known locally as Turkish Green. The mosque suffered severe damage during the Soviet-Afghan War, and it fell into massive disrepair. In 2022, an explosion inside the mosque caused the destruction of some parts of the mosque as well.

Lunch was at a local restaurant. We had Kabuli mutton pillaf with chicken shasliks. In most eateries in Afghanistan, the ladies and men were seated separately. The ladies or those with family were seated in a curtained room and the men can have their meals outside.

After lunch, we climbed steep slope to visit a fort on top of the ancient wall. Historical accounts from the 10th century AD indicate that the city was ringed with earthen walls, with six gates, within which was a fine citadel and a mosque. Small sections of this wall still remains. From the top traditional Afghan houses could be seen in the rural areas. They are made of mud, stone, and wood, which provide a comfortable living space in harsh weather but have low resistance to seismic hazards.

Before we drove back to mazar-e Sherif we had a brief walking tour at the local bazaar. We did not buy anything as communication with the locals was quite a challenge.

Drove back to Mazar-e Sherif and visited the
Blue Mosque. The Afghans belief that the Shrine of Saidina Ali is located here. The Blue Mosque has been described as an oasis for peace, and it really does seem like it, considering the thousands of white doves surrounding the mosque. The doves flock on the trees, the roof, and the sidewalks. Legend has it the mosque is so sacred that any dove with a speck of color on its feathers will instantly become pure white after entering the mosque’s vicinity. 

According to legend, a Middle Eastern mullah had a dream that Ali bin Abi Talib, the son-in-law and cousin of the prophet Muhammad, had his bones resting in what is now northwestern Afghanistan. Captivated by his story, Ahmad Sanjar, who was the Sultan of the Seljuq Empire from 1118 to 1157, constructed the Shrine of Ali in northwestern Afghanistan. He even constructed a city around the shrine, called Mazar-i-Sharif, to which thousands of religious Muslims migrated. 

Unfortunately, a century after the shrine was built, Genghis Khan made his westward push. When he reached Mazar-i-Sharif, Khan completely destroyed the shrine. But it wasn’t gone for long. In 1481, Sultan Husayn Mizra rebuilt the Shrine of Ali in an even grander fashion, in the form of a giant blue mosque which still exists to this day.

Later we stopped for a local ice- cream treat. There were many choices of flavours but we chose Mango and Caramel topped with sweet creamy sauce to add to the delicious taste.

Back at the hotel in time for Jamak prayers.

Afghan 06: Khulm, the Ancient City...

"Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it from religious conviction..." Blaise Pascal

(Al-Fateh Mosque)

Day 06: 09 October 2024 (Wednesday)
Route: MAZAR SHARIF/KHULM/KABUL
Flight: FG262 MZR 0400 KBL 0530 Kam Air
Hotel: Hotel Khyber

We had a heavy breakfast at the guesthouse courtyard.

Today on the way to Khulm we had a short visit to the Firdosi Library of Mazar-e Sharif. The library is actively sponsored by Iran and has quite an extensuve collection of english books.

Next visit was at Al-Fateh Mosque, similar to Al-Aqsa Mosque in Palestine. The mosque located at the round about in Mazar-e Sharif was built by Cam Air at a cost of 22 million Afghanis.

By 10.00 am we reached the city of Khulm and drove direct to Tashqarqhan National Park. The Bagh-e Jehan Name Palace was built between 1890-1892 by Emir Abdur Rahman. It was then further restored and renovated between 1974-1976 with the intention of turning it into a museum. However, an earthquake in 1976 caused serious damage to the structure and the following years of conflict and civil war led to further damage and the neglect of the palace. The residence was used as a stopover place for the Shah of Afghanistan during his travels in the northern provinces. The palace was in the style of Mughal residences with a swimming pool and garden.

We took the Balkh Samangan Highway, known as the Aibak-Mazar-i-Sharif highway in northern Samangan province. Stopped for some photo opportunities and bought some local food stuff from the roadside stalls.

There is a fresh spring water by the Khulm River. Our van stopped near the river bank on the opposite side of the spring. We could see the locals taking a bath at the pool. To get to the spring pool one had to wade in the river which was muddy at the time.

Our lunch was pillaf and chicken on skewers at a local restaurant in Khulm. After lunch we drove direct to Mazar's Maulana Jalaluddin Airport. After we said goodbye to our driver, Kassim we went through a thorough check-in process. All our bagage were subject to dog search. We had ample time to perform our prayers before we boarded the 4:00 pm flight to Kabul.

Our flight arrived safely in Kabul at 5:15 pm. We checked in Khyber Hotel and had our dinner in the room.

Afghan 07: The Buddhas of Bamyan

"Riches do not delight us so much with their possession, as torment us with their loss..." - Dick Gregory

(The greaat Buddha of Bamyan)

Day 07: 10 October 2024 (Thursday)

Route: KABUL/BAMYAN
Hotel: 4Burj Highland Hotel, Bamyan

This morning the elevator was out of order. We had to climb the stairs to have breakfast at the dining hall on the 5th floor.

At the hotel lobby, met with Abdul Matin Mohamad Azeem, a former Afghan student in UIA. He was the champion for the Pidato Antarabangsa Bahasa Melayu (PABM) Piala Perdana Menteri 2017 at Putrajaya International Convention Centre.

This morning we would be heading to Bamyan in two cars. The first car started earlier to buy a walking stick at the bazaar. By 10.30 am the second car departed and we met somewhere at the outskirt of Kabul.

Stopped for lunch at a restaurant half-way to Bamyan. We had crispy fried fish which tasty and delicious wuth pillaf and bread. The restaurant was located on the highland with a view of fresh snow capped mountains. Met two bikers enjoying the twisties of Hisa-i-Awali Bihsud.

Bamyan is the home of the world's oldest oil paintings. At the end of the 10th century, there was a Buddhist culture in which several thousand Buddhist monks lived in caves carved into the mountain. Bamyan is often described as “the place of shining light.” The rolling hills of the Bamiyan valley offer an austere and beautiful landscape of variegated colours.

The central valley sits 2,500 meters above the sea level. Two rivers flow into the valley from sources in the Kuh-e-Baba Mountain: The Kakrak River to the east and the Foladi River to the west. The principal archaeological sites are located in the long east-west central valley of Bamyan and in the Kakrak and Foladi river valleys.

The Buddhas of Bamiyan were two possibly 6th-century monumental Buddhist statues in Afghanistan. Located 130 km northwest of Kabul, at an elevation of 2,500 m carbon dating of the structural components of the Buddhas has determined that the smaller 38 m "Eastern Buddha" was built around 570 CE, and the larger 55 m "Western Buddha" was built around 618 CE, which would date both to the time the Hephthalites ruled the region.

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site of historical, it was a holy site for Buddhists on the Silk Road. However, in March 2001, both statues were destroyed by the Taliban following an order given on February 26, 2001, by Taliban leader Mullah Muhammad Omar, to destroy all the statues in Afghanistan so that no one can worship or respect them in the future. International and local opinion condemned the destruction of the Buddhas.

Next we drove to the historical Gholghola City or Shahr-e Gholghola. Gholghola City is also known as City of Screams, City of Woe or City of Sorrows. It is is an archaeological site located near the town of Bamyan.

The Siege of Bamyan took place here in 1221 during the Mongol pursuit of Jalal ad-Din Mingburnu, the last ruler of the Khwarezmian Empire. Mutukan, son of Chagatai Khan and favourite grandson, was killed in battle by an arrow from the besieged walls, which led Genghis to massacre the population of the city and its surrounding region. There were a few other versions to the story of this City of Sorrow.

The sun was already setting on the horizon when we left the ruins of Shahr-e Gholghola and drove to 4Burj Highland Hotel. The weather was 6°C and dropped further during the night.

Dinner was a tasty spicy chicken dish cooked by our local guide, Mr. Hayatullah.

Afghan 08: Band-e Emir grand canyon of Afghanistan...

"The rivalry is with ourself. I try to be better than is possible. I fight against myself, not against the other..." - Luciano Pavarotti

(The blue lakes of Band-e Emir)

Day 08: 11 October 2024 (Friday)
Route: BAMYAN / BAND E-AMIR - KABUL
Hotel: Hotel Khyber, Kabul

This morning there was a power outage and hot water was not available. We make do with a quick icy-cold shower in the dark.

Breakfast was served at 6.30 am. By 7:30 am we packed our bags and started our journey towards Bank E Amir National Park.

Band E Amir National Park is one of the few rare natural lakes in the world which are created by travertine systems. The site of Band-e Amir has been described as Afghanistan's Grand Canyon National Park with a series of six incredibly deep blue lakes in the heart of the central Afghanistan. The lakes are situated in the foothills of the Hindu Kush, the second highest mountain range in the world. From the entrance of the National Park, we drove off-roading for quite a distance to reach two of the lakes. The other four lakes were inaccessible by cars.

Departed to Kabul from Band E Amir passing the Bamyan district. We had lunch at a Kabuli Mutton Rice Restaurant in Bamyan town. Afgan bread, pillaf and mutton shaslik were served for lunch. We performed our jamak prayers in one of the rooms in the restaurant.

On the way we detoured into a village to visit the Zurhak Ancient City also known as The Red City, it is a historic city ruins in Bamyan, which was once home to 3,000 people. The fortress is believed to have been founded between 500-600 AD by the Hephthalites, around the same time as the Buddhas of Bamyan were created. The city lies at the easternmost point of the Bamyan valley, above the confluence of the Kunduz and Kalu Ganga rivers. The valley used to be a part of the silk route connecting Europe to India and China.

At Jalrez, the apple orchard visit was the last event for the day. We had to cross a small river to get to the orchard. Met with the owner, who was busy supervising his workers picking and packing the apples into boxes. Most probably, these boxes were for export and will be collected by lorries later. We were allowed to pick apples of our choice to eat and some for take away.

It was already dark when we reached Maidan Shar, the capital of Wardak province. As it was already late, we skipped visiting Wardak and headed direct to Kabul.

We checked in Khyber hotel again. After slurping a steaming bowl of maggi mee we rested our exhausted bodies and slept like a log.

Afghan 09: Herat, the pearl of Khorasan...

"Over and over I marvel at the blessings of my life: Each year has grown better than the last..." - Lawrence Welk

(The Ikhtiar U Din Castle Complex)

Day 09: 12 October 2024 (Saturday)
Route: KABUL / HERAT
Flight: RQ101 KBL 0930 HEA 1100 Kam Air
Hotel: Sadaf International Hotel, Herat

This morning we had breakfast in a rush as we had to board the 10.00 am domestic flight to Herat which was half an hour later than scheduled. There were many people at the arrival area to welcome back the jemaah umrah. Arrived in Herat International Airport at 11.45 am.

We were met by our driver, Zubair. We checked in Sadaf International Hotel located about 16 km from the airport. After a quick freshened up, we went out for a good sumptuous lunch at a nearby restaurant before we started our tour of Herat.

Our first visit today was to Herat National Museum. It stands as a testament to the region's diverse cultural and historical artifacts. The museum is located within the Ikhtiar U Din Castle complex. It houses a collection that spans thousands of years, showcasing the many cultures that have left their imprint on the region. The museum has a significant role to play in educating visitors about the history of Herat and the wider region.

Next we explored the Ikhtiar U Din Castle. One of the oldest extant structures in the historic core of Herat is Qala e Ikhtyaruddin, built on the site of an ancient citadel thought to have been established by Alexander in around 330BC. The layout of battlements and towers that survive is thought to date from the early 14th century AD, when the Karts re-built a fortress that had been destroyed by the Mongols. The tilework can still be seen on several towers. The citadel underwent conservation in the 1970’s.

The Musalla complex or the Musalla of Gawhar Shah, is a former Islamic religious complex located in Herat, containing examples of Timurid architecture. Much of the 15th-century complex is in ruins today, and the buildings that still stand are in need of restoration. The complex ruins consist of the five Musallah Minarets of Herat, the Mir Ali Sher Navai mausoleum, the Queen Gawhar Shad Mausoleum, and the ruins of a large mosque and a madrasa complex.

We wanted to visit the Herat Bazaar but it was already closed. We had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from the roadside vendor before we drove back to our hotel.

Afghan 10: The legacy of the Mujahideens in Herat...

"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Then quit. There's no point in being a damn fool about it..." - W. C. Fields

(With the Mujahideens at the Jihad Museum)

Day 10: 13 October 2024 (Sunday)
Route: HERAT TOUR
Hotel: Sadaf International Hotel, Herat

This morning, before our tour of Herat City, we went to one of the many tailors shops at the Herat Bazaar to custom-made kurtas for the men. We bought a few pieces of material to make jubah for me too.

Our first visit today is to Herat Central Blue Mosque It is probably the most beautiful example of Islamic architecture in all of Afghanistan, the Great Mosque of Herat’s nearly six-century history has been almost as tumultuous as that of the country. Both mosque and nation make evident Afghans’ resilience and determination to overcome challenges and rise again. Construction of the mosque began in 1200, but the building fell into ruin only two decades later, after Genghis Khan conquered and pillaged the region.

It has been rebuilt, destroyed, and restored many times since, and each new effort has built upon what came before. The structure was damaged during the Anglo-Afghan wars of the early twentieth century, and 1943 brought a major overhaul in which a tile workshop was created onsite—an ongoing contribution to the magnificent mosaic that adorns this house of worship. The mosque is also known for its historical significance as it served as a center for religious and cultural activities during the Timurid dynasty. It has also been used as a center for education, including the study of Islamic law and theology. The mosque is still in use today and is open to visitors. We visited the restoration sites and witnessed the laborious efforts to reconstruct and restore the damaged facade.

We drove to Malan Bridge also called Pul-i-Malan, a two-lane arched bridge over the Hari River, connecting Injil District with Guzara District. It was built around 1110 AD. The bridge is located 12 km south of Herat's old city. It is currently made up of 22 arches and has survived several floods that have washed away other bridges crossing the Hari river.

We visited Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Shrine, another important part of the surviving architectural heritage in Herat. It is the mausoleum complex of Khwaja Abdulla Ansari in Gozargah, which dates from the Timurid period. The complex today comprises the enclosure of Ansari’s grave, a 16th century structure that retains some fine Timurid tilework, and is where the unique black marble Haft Qalam sarcophagus, dating from the reign of Sultan Husain Baiqara is situated. Other surviving parts of the complex are the late 15th century AD Zarnegar pavilion, whose interior has fine painted decoration on plaster, and a 17th century AD Namakdan, a decagonal building with vaulted balconies, overlooking the Timurid garden.

Jihad Museum is created by Ismail Khan, a politician and former Mujahideen fighter. He spent vast amounts of his own fortune to create the Jihad Museum along with many others in Herat. They believed the museum was necessary to educate the next generation about the uprising against the Soviet Union. Constructed in 2010, the museum is filled with paraphernalia from the insurrection and more notably, dioramas depicting the violence. The museum also hosts a collection of weapons. Outside of the museum, the collection also has Russian helicopters and fighter jets, surrounded by a well kept garden on the grounds.

At noon, we had chicken briyani lunch at Mazar Briyani Restaurant located near our hotel. We performed our prayers in the hotel then went out again to visit to Khawaja Ghaltan Shrine.

Khawaja Ghaltan Shrine is small shrine located on Roodaki Highway. It is famous and well known amongst the locals. It is most famous for making a wish. There is a giant tree with a tombstone of Khawaja Ghaltan underneath. Near the shrine, on a flat ground, people lie down and make a wish, cover their eyes and recite verses of the quran, and roll unaided on their back. This is quite an extraordinary phenomenon we ever saw.

Our last stop was the Herat Bazaar. It was a key stop along the Silk Road. Herat's bazaar thrived with the exchange of goods, ideas, and cultures among traders from Asia, Europe, and Africa. The bazaar is a labyrinth of lanes lined with shops that offer a myriad of items, from traditional Afghan rugs to intricate glassware and precious saffron. We bought spices, dried fruits, safron tea and local sweets.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at Charfasl Ice-cream parlor. We tried Safron and cocoa flavored syiriaq ice-cream.

Afghan 11: Herat/Kabul flight oversights...

"Tired minds don't plan well. Sleep first, plan later..." - Walter Reisch

(A long walk to the plane)

Day 11: 14 October2024 (Monday) 

Route: HERAT / KABUL
Flight: FG25 HEA 1540 KBL 1645
Hotel: Hotel Khyber, Kabul

We had a late breakfast then checked-out by 9.30 am. Went to the airport in two taxi.

At the.check-in counter we were told that there were errors in the tickets. Instead of 14 Oct the tickets were bought for 14 Nov. With the assistance of the ground crew, cancellation and reissuance of new tickets were made.

Finally, three persons managed to board the 12:30 pm KAM Air flight. Another two boarded the 15:40 pm Ariana Afghan Air. The remaining three had to spend the night in Herat and would be flying to Kabul tomorrow afternoon as there were no more seats available on today's flights.

For the two of us, our 3.40 pm flight FG252 Ariana Afghan Air departed to Kabul on time. Our business class seats came with full in-service meals. Arrived safely in Kabul at 4.45 pm. Ismail and Hayat's brother were already waiting to pick us at Gate C and sent us direct to Khyber Hotel.

We had pizza and chicken popcorn for dinner in the hotel room. Tonight we repacked our bag for the overnight trip to Nangarhar tomorrow.

Afghan 12: An evening in Kabul...

 "If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere...” - Vincent van Gogh

(The gardens of Paghman)

Day 12: 15 October 2024 (Tuesday)
Route: KABUL City Tour
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

We had a late buffet breakfast at the 5th floor dining room. By 9.30 am we started our visit to interesting places in Kabul.

This morning we drove up to Wazeer Khan Tepe in northern Kabul. It is named after the 19th century Afghan Emir Wazir Akbar Khan. It is one of the wealthiest parts of Kabul. Wazīr Akbar Khān was a Barakzai prince. His fame began with the 1837 Battle of Jamrud, while attempting to regain Afghanistan's second capital Peshawar from the Sikh Empire.

On the hill top, there is the world's biggest Afghan flag. Next to it is a replica of the Dome of the Rock mosque of Palestine. The new Molla Omer mosque was funded by the Istanbul-based IDDEF organization and inaugurated in 2023.

We planned to go to the Kabul Bazaar but it was too crowded for comfort. We decided to have lunch at one of the Mall and performed our prayers there.

On the way to Paghman we passed the Qargha Dam whuch was built in the 1930s mainly for irrigation and tourism purposes. The height of the dam is approximately 30 m. Its length is 1.68 km and its width 600 m. A sluice gate of the dam which was damaged has since been restored. The reservoir water spread area behind the dam is 5,000 ha. It has since been a popular picnic location, particularly on the weekends and public holidays when it is visited by a large number of picnickers.

We had an evening walk in the beautiful gardens of Paghman. The gardens of Paghman are a major tourist attraction, and why the city is also known as the garden capital of Afghanistan. We stayed on top of the hill absorbing the panoramic scenery while watching the sunset over the horizon.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at one Pakistani Restaurant for roti phrata with chicken karahi for dinner, followed by spicy qaimak chai.

Afghan 13: Nangarhar, once a major opium producer...

"Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast - you also miss the sense of where you are going and why..." - Eddie Cantor

(Serenity at its best, by the Kunar River)

Day 13: 16 October 2024 (Wednesday)
Route: KABUL/NANGARHAR/KABUL
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

We skipped breakfast as we planned for an early morning departure for a day trip to Nangarhar.

By 6.00 am we were already on the road. We made a brief stop at Eid Gha Mosque, the second largest mosque in Kabul. It serves as the main mosque not only for people of Kabul but the whole of Afghanistan. The mosque was built during the time of Babur of the Mughal Empire and has stood the test of time. It remains one of the most widely-known mosques in Kabul. During Eid, the mosque sees gatherings of millions of people from all over Afghanistan. The architecture of this place heavily features only Mughal style. After numerous attacks on the mosque and subsequent reconstructions, it has seen some changes in architectural styles, currently giving it a contemporary look between Mughal and Modern Islamic architectures.

The journey to Nangarhar was via the mountainous Kabul-Jalalabad road. It is a highway between Kabul and Jalalabad, the largest city in eastern Afghanistan and capital of Nangarhar Province. A portion of the road runs through the Tang-e Gharu gorge.

The road is about 152 km long and travels downwards from an elevation of 1790 m in Kabul to 575 m in Jalalabad. Because of the many traffic accidents, the road between Kabul and Jalalabad is considered one of the most dangerous in the world. It consists of narrow roads with sharp turns past high cliffs and a valley of the Kabul River below, with which it runs parallel. It is a large part of the Afghan leg of the Grand Trunk Road.

Stopped at a view point for photo opportunities of the scenic view while watching the traffic taking the switched back curves cautiously.

Stopped for breakfast and comfort break at the R&R area over looking the valley. We had Afghan bread and fried fresh-water fish and fried chicken with chickpea curry and hot brewing sheen chai, the famous afghan green tea.

We arrived in Nangarhar district, passing through the busy market. Nangarhar is the food basket for the whole of Afghanistan as most of the crops produced here are consumed in different parts of the province. Nangarhar is famous for producing lemons, oranges, olives, peanuts and dates beside other fruits and vegetables.

Nangarhar is the third most populous province in Afghanistan and shares a long border with Pakistan. Its Torkham border crossing is the most important trade route connecting Kabul to Pakistan.

In Jalalabad we visited the Tomb of King Amanullah Khan. The Mausoleum is a historical site that commemorates one of Afghanistan's most progressive kings. King Amanullah Khan ruled from 1919 to 1929 and was known for his efforts to modernize Afghanistan. King Amanullah Khan ascended to the throne after Afghanistan gained its independence from British control.

We had a refreshing cool sugar cane drinks from a roadside stall before we drove off-roading to Nakamora Park. This park is where Nangarhar officially inaugurated the Nakamura Memorial Garden to mark the humanitarian work done by the late Japanese doctor Tetsu Nakamura. In October 2019. Nakamura was officially granted honorary Afghan citizenship but two months later, he was gunned down in the city. Nakamura was a Japanese physician who headed Peace Japan Medical Services (PMS), an aid group known as Peshawar-kai in Japanese. He was devoted to building canal projects, from the Kunar River in eastern Afghanistan, and was credited with transforming the desert of Gamberi, on the outskirts of Jalalabad, into lush forests and productive wheat farmlands. Nakamura also constructed two hospitals and two mosques.

We had a late lunch at Kama District by the stream. We performed our prayers first before we enjoyed Afghan Sheryakh ice-cream to cool us down. The weather was really very hot in the afternoon and we were profusely sweating. We had fried fish and grilled lamb with bread for lunch.

Later we visited the crowded bazaar to buy kurta materials and some other local products. There was a crowd of onlookers following us wherever we went. It was quite uncomfortable to do our shopping in this crowded baazar.

It was already dark when we started driving on the mountainous road to Kabul. Back in Kabul, we were invited to have a home-cooked dinner at Hayat's residence and were introduced to his cousins and nephews.

2024 - 16th Umrah Trip...

“We are not human beings having a spiritual experience; we are spiritual beings having a human experience...” - Pierre Teilhard de Chardin

(Bismillah... May Allah blessings be on us throughout our pilgrimage)

Date: 19 – 31 August 2024
Flight: 19/08/24 MH156 1450/1900 KUL-JED
31/08/24 MH159 2230/1310+1 MED-KUL

Hotels:
19 - 20/08/24 - Taif Platinum Park Hotel
20 - 25/08/24 - Makkah Pullman Zamzam
25 - 31/08/24 - Madinah Emaar Elite

Mutawwif: Ustaz Muhammad Ilyas bin Md Zin

Umrah Menara Jam MKM Itinerary:
Day 01: KL – Jeddah – Taif
Day 02: Taif – Makkah
Day 03: Makkah – Tannaim
Day 04: Makkah – Ja’aranah
Day 05: Makkah Free and Easy
Day 06: Makkah - Hudaibiah
Day 07: Makkah – Madinah
Day 08: Masjid Nabawi Tour
Day 09: Madinah Free and Easy
Day 10: Madinah City Tour
Day 11: Madinah Optional Tour
Day 12: Madinah Jannat al-Baqi
Day 13: Madinah – Kuala Lumpur

Next destination: Afghanistan Autumn Trip

Umrah Day 01: KL – Jeddah – Taif 👉

Umrah Day 01: KL – Jeddah – Taif

“Be tolerant of those who are lost on their path. Ignorance, conceit, anger, jealousy, and greed stem from a lost soul. Pray that they will find guidance...” - Elder Wisdom

(A typical spate of disruptions)

Day 01: 19/08/24 (Monday)
Route: KL – Jeddah – Taif
Hotel: Taif Platinum Park Hotel

By 6.30 am we loaded our luggage in Sara's car. Sara would be sending us to KLIA after she punched her card at JPA Putrajaya. She is yet to receive her official placement letter. From Putrajaya we detoured to have a scrumptious breakfast at Restoran Nasi Lemak Royale in Kota Warisan. It was still early when Sara dropped us at the KLIA departure hall.

 

(We were early!)

By 11.00 am the group gathered at Level 5 KLIA, for a briefing by KKM officers. Our Mutawwif for this trip was Ustaz Muhammad Ilyas bin Md Zin. After the briefings and beg tagging we proceeded for the check-in process. Our flight MH156 was delayed to 5.35 pm and passengers were provided with a RM35 meal voucher. We had Burger King set lunch at the Arrival Hall. Performed Zohor/Asar prayers before we boarded the plane. We watched movies in between naps on board the plane.

 

(A group photo of UMJ 119)

(At the departure hall)

We arrived safely at Jeddah King Abdul Aziz International Airport around 11.00 pm. Immigration and custom clearances were smooth. Once we claimed our luggage, we packed an overnight bag for our one-night stay in Taif as all the big luggage would stay in the bus. We boarded a comfortable 40-seater bus for our journey to Taif located about 180 km via Makkah - Jeddah Hwy that would normally take around two hours, with a stop for comfort break along the way.

We reached the city of Taif around 2.00 am and checked in Taif Platinum Park Hotel. After a refreshing shower and Isya'/Maghrib prayers, we tried to have a brief sleep before Fajar prayers.

(Our lodging in Taif)

• Umrah Day 02: Taif – Makkah👉

Umrah Day 02: Taif – Makkah

“The unexamined life is not worth living...” - Socrates

(Masjid Abdullah Ibnu Abbas, Ta'if)

Day 02: 20/08/24 (Tuesday)
Route: Taif – Makkah
Hotel: Makkah Pullman Zamzam Hotel

We had a heavy Arabian buffet breakfast at the hotel cafe.

 

(Arabian buffet breakfast)

(Heavy breakfast to last till lunch)

By 7.00 am all luggage were ready at the lobby. We checked out at 10.00 am and started our tour of Taif. Taif is a city in the Makkah Province of southwest Saudi Arabia. It is known for 20th-century Shubra Palace, a grand, white-walled building with latticework windows. The Taif Regional Museum exhibits artifacts from Islamic and pre-Islamic periods. In the west, King Fahad Garden has grassy lawns, restaurants and a lagoon. Just east is Taif National Park, with trees and a large dam.

(Scenes around Taif city)

Our first visit was Masjid Abdullah Ibnu al-Abbas where we performed Dhuha prayers and recited our doa. The mosque is named after Ibn Abbas, the youngest cousin of the prophet Muhammad. He was buried within the grounds of the mosque.

(The Abdullah bin Abbas Gate)

(Masjid Abdullah bin Abbas)

(Rows of pillars in the main prayer hall)

(A row of the Quran in the prayer hall)

(Sharing a cup of vanilla ice-cream on a hot weather)

Next visit was at the Rashed Hussein Al Qurashi Rose Factory, one of the oldest and largest flower factories in Taif. It is dedicated to preserving traditional methods used to manufacture the finest rose products. This is the same Rose Factory we visited during our Umrah trip in 2022.

(A visit to the Rose perfume distillers)

(Buying natural Rose oil products for souvenirs)

For this trip, the bus just passed Masjid Kuk, Masjid Al-Addas and Masjid Qantarah. We were lucky to have visited these historical mosques during our last two visits in Taif.

(Driving around historical sites of Taif)

(Passing by Masjid Qantarah along the route)

At noon we had lunch at one of the famous restaurants, Kabsat Al Hada restaurants specialize in traditional Saudi and Gulf food, including Kabsa, Mandy, Madhbi, Muqalal, Saliq and many other delicious dishes. Our lunch set was Nasi Mandy Chicken and lamb in a tray to be shared by four people. We had refreshing pomegranate and lemon ice blended juice and a plate of Taif's famous Khunafa to complete the meal.

(One of the many Nasi Arab Mandy restaurants in Taif)

(Our Nasi Mandy set lunch for today)

By 2.30 pm we stopped at Masjid Qarnul Manazil for miqat for our first umrah where we performed solat ihram and niat for the umrah. Qarnul Manazil serves as a Miqat for the people of Najd and for those from cities such as Ta’if and Riyadh. It is also a Miqat for individuals travelling from Gulf Countries. Masjid al-Sayl al-Kabeer was constructed in 1982 and is situated just north of the al-Sayl al-Kabeer settlement. The mosque can accommodate approximately 3,000 worshippers.

(Our miqat from Taif)

(The main prayer area)

(The men in their ihram)

(Qarnul Manazil history and background)

The journey from Taif to Makkah took about 2 hours. By 5.15 pm we reached Makkah and checked in Makkah Pullman Zamzam Hotel. We performed solat Maghrib/Isya' in the hotel room before we gathered at the lobby. Ustaz Iliyas led us to perform our tawaf and Saie for our fist umrah.

(First glimpse of the Clock Tower)

(The crowd at Mattaf area)

(Completed the tawaf for our first umrah in the wee hours)

We had a late-night early morning dinner of roti canai and a very spicy beef curry at the Safwah Tower food court after a tiring and hungry umrah rites. We were back at our hotel way after midnight for a good night sleep.

(Greeted by two friendly camels at the Pullman Zamzam Hotel)

👈Umrah Day 01: KL – Jeddah – Taif    

     Umrah Day 03: Makkah – Tannaim👉