Afghanistan: Autumn adventure to the untrodden path...

“I don't measure a man's success by how high he climbs but how high he bounces when he hits bottom...” General George S. Patton

Our two weeks Afghan Autumn Trip will cover most of the major towns such as Kabul, Mazhar-e Sharif, Balkh, Kholm, Bamiyan and Ban-e Emir National Park, Herat and Nangarhar and learn their significance to the Ancient Silk Routes.

Afghanistan is one of my off the beaten track destinations. And people were wondering why on earth we want to venture into this war-torn country.

From a security perspective, Afghanistan has improved a lot and is relatively safe. Do not be misinformed by the internet! Afghanistan's history has been dominated by extensive warfare. After the US withdrawal in 2021, the conflict-ravaged country, has seen an increase in tourism since the Taliban returned to power. The hospitality in Afghanistan is so welcoming. During our two weeks' travel in Afghanistan, we met with some of the kindest people ever.

For those who love nature, Afghanistan's countryside offers some of the most unspoiled, authentic and mesmerizing scenic landscape with ancient history. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting Afghanistan, when the weather is pleasant across the whole country.

Afghanistan is a landlock country, sharing borders with Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, China and Tajikistan. During this trip, we will be visiting some towns near these borders.

We had to buy a separate travel insurance coverage as our existing travel insurance does not cover Afghanistan because of its notorious reputation.

(Masjid Saidina Ali and Shrine in Mazar-e Sharif)

The Afghan Autumn Itinerary:
Day 01: Leaving the hustle and bustle of life...
Day 02: Stop over of a long haul flight in Sharjah...
Day 03: The forgotten chapter of the Hippie Trail in Kabul...
Day 04: Mazar-e Sharif Saidina Ali Blue Mosque and Shrine...
Day 05: A hub of Zoroastrianism and Buddhism in Balkh...

Day 06: Kholm, the Historical Ancient City...
Day 07: The Buddhas of Bamiyan, a destruction of heritage...
Day 08: Band e Emir, Grand Canyon of Afghanistan...
Day 09: Herat, the Pearl of Khorasan...
Day 10: The legacy of the Mujahideens in Herat...

Day 11: Herat to Kabul unfortunate flight oversights...
Day 12: A Romantic Evening in Kabul...
Day 13: Nangarhar, once a major opium producer...
Day 14: Goodbye Afghanistan...

Next Destination: Borders of Thailand

Afghan 01: Leaving the hustle and bustle of life...👉

Afghan 01: Leaving the hustle and bustle of life...

"Coming together is a beginning; keeping together is progress; working together is success..." - Edward Everett Hale

(Ready to go...)

Day 01: 04 October 2024 (Friday)
Hotel: Hotel Westree KL Sentral

KL was hosting the Tour De langkawi and the Standard Chartered Marathon. Most roads will be closed over the weekend and the jam would be massive. To avoid the jam, we decided to stay the night somewhere near KL Sentral so we could catch the earliest ERL to KLIA. Both the hotel and train tickets were pre-booked on-line earlier.

 

(A clean boutique hotel)

This afternoon, after Jumaat prayers, we loaded our luggage in the Merc and drove to Hotel Westree KL Sentral located in Little India, Jalan Sambanthan a short walking distance to KL Sentral. The room was small with basic amenities but clean. We had to pay a deposit for rm100 claimable when we check out.

 

(Our comfort food, light and tasty)

Parked the Merc at our Putramas Apartment and took a grab car to KL Sentral. Had an early dinner at 4- Fingers then walked back to the hotel for a good night sleep.

👈Afghanistan: Autumn adventure to the untrodden path...

   Afghan 02: Stop over of a long haul flight in Sharjah...👉

Afghan 02: Stop over of a long haul flight in Sharjah...

"Patience, persistence and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success..." - Napoleon Hill

(Ibis Style Hotel, Sharjah)

Day 02: 05 October 24 (Saturday)
Route: KLIA / SHARJAH
Flight: G9801 KUL 1000 SHJ 1310 Air Arabia
Hotel: Ibis Style Hotel, Sharjah

The alarm woke us at 4.00 am. By 5.15 am we were already at KL Sentral departure hall and took the 5.20 am ERL to KLIA.

Arrived at KLIA in time for Subuh prayers. The seven of us gathered at the Departure Hall KLIA at 6.30 am for group check-in. There was a slight problem with hubby's ticket but the error was quickly rectified. There was ample time for the group to have breakfast at the food court.

By 9.30 am we boarded the Air Arabia plane to Sharjah which was supposed to depart at 10.00 am but delayed for 30 minutes. Pre-ordered chicken briyani meals were served for lunch on board.

(Sharjah International Airport)

(14-hour layover in Sharjah)

Arrived at Sharjah Airport around 2:00 pm. Transit in Sharjah was for 14 hours. Sharjah has been named the "Cultural Capital of the Arab World" by UNESCO, in recognition of its efforts to promote Arab culture and heritage. Sharjah is a popular destination for tourists, as it offers a mix of historical, cultural, and natural attractions. It is also a great place for shopping. We will be having a city tour in Sharjah on our return trip if time permitted.

(Collage of paintings at the hotel lobby)

In two taxis, we drove to Ibis Style Hotel and checked in and rested till mid-night. Dinner was tuna sandwich bought from the Subway restaurant located next to the hotel.

(The view of Sharjah from our hotel room)

👈Afghan 01: Leaving the hustle and bustle of life...

Afghan 03: The forgotten chapter of a Hippie Trail...👉

Afghan 03: The forgotten chapter of a Hippie Trail in Kabul...

 "To succeed in life, you need two things: ignorance and confidence..." - Mark Twain

(Shah Du Shamshire Mosque in Kabul)

Day 03: 06 October 2024 (Sunday)
Route: SHARJAH / KABUL
Flight: G9718 SHJ 0300 KBL 0630 Air Arabia
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

By 1:00 am we took two taxis to the Sharjah Airport. We went direct for passport clearance and security check as we already had the boarding pass for our onward journey to Kabul.

 

(A glimpse of snow covered mountains of Afghanistan)

Departed to Kabul on Air Arabia G9718 ETD 0300. Safely arrived at Kabul International Airport at 6.15 am. We were met by our local guides, Hayatullah and Ismail. Two cars were available for us to get to the Khyber Hotel in Kabul. The morning weather was a cool 8°C.

 

(A welcoming sign)

(Kabul International Airport)

Kabul is the capital city of Afghanistan, known for its historical gardens, bazaars, and palaces such as the Gardens of Babur, Darul Aman Palace and the Arg. In the second half of the 20th century, the city became a stop on the hippie trail undertaken by many Europeans and gained the nickname "Paris of Central Asia".

(Kabul - Local street scene)

(Kabul - A war veteran waiting for his transport)

Paratha bread and chick pea curry for breakfast at the Queatta Pakistani Restaurant in Kabul. Complemented by a glass of tasty chai karak, the Afghan hot white coffee.

 

(Trying to decipher the menu)

(Crispy Roti Paratha and steaming Chai Karak)

After an hour's rest, we enjoyed the scenery of Kabul from the rooftop garden of Khyber Hotel before we went out to explore the city. Khyber Hotel is centrally located and surrounded by shops, restaurants, and it is a close walk to the park and a mall. The rooftop garden has an amazing view of the mountains and the city.

(The rooftop garden of Khyber Hotel)

(The hillside houses of Kabul)

Our first destination was the Shah Du Shamshire Mosque, also called the 'Mosque of the King of Two Swords'. The mosque is located on the bank of Kabul river and has the most unusual architecture. Built in the 1920s during Amanullah's drive for modernisation, it looks like it would be more at home in Versailles or Vienna. The facades are all Italianate baroque with stucco detailing, picked out in white against a lurid lemon yellow paint-job. It's 2-storey building is even more peculiar, and only the tiny minarets disclose the building's true purpose.

(Shah Du Shamshire Mosque)

(A tourist and the friendly locals)

The mosque's name is derived from a far older story than Amanullah's strange architectural tastes. In the 7th century Kabul was a Hindu city, besieged by an Arab army. The Arab king was beheaded, but was so inspired that he continued fighting, leading his men to victory at the point of his two scimitars. The mosque’s image could be seen on the 50 Afghani money.

 

(Pigeons feeding - The Bazaar is across the dried up Kabul river)

(Street vendors around the Shah Du Shamshire Mosque)

According to history, when the Muslim army attacked Kabul, Laith Ibn Qais led and commended a section of the Muslim army. After the Muslim armies broke the Dehmazang wall, Laith Ibn Qais fought with two swords during the conquest of Kabul. After the conquest, the army performed their first prayer at this place and later built a mosque there. Laith died during the battle and was buried at the current place of the mosque. The tomb of Laith Ibn Qais is located next to Shah Du Shamshire Mosque.  

(A child selling hp cable at Laith ibni Qais shrine)

(The tomb of Laith ibn Qais)

On the way to the National Museum, we passed the Grand Mosque of Kabul and Darul Aman Palace. Darul Aman Palace has nearly a century of historical significance, and is located 8 km from Kabul city. This palace, featuring a three-story building, contains 150 small and large rooms designed in the European architectural style. This historical monument of the country was constructed during the reign of King Amanullah Khan, to the southwest of Chahar Asyab in Kabul, a place previously known as Afshar Tepe. The palace was used as a temporary isolation and treatment center during the Covid-19 pandemic in Afghanistan. The palace is now closed for renovation.

(The Grand Mosque of Kabul - Masjid Abdul Rahman)

(Darul Aman Palace - Google photo)

The National Museum of Afghanistan is a two-story building located across the street from the Darul Aman Palace in the Darul Aman area of Kabul. It was once considered to be one of the world's finest museums.

(A simple signage to the museum)

(The National Museum of Afghanistan)

(A visit to Afghanistan Cultural Heritage)

(Restoration was funded by Greece)

(Old locomotives and vintage cars exhibition)

(Current exhibitions in the museum)

At Khan Juice Point, freshly squeezed pomegranate, pineapple and mango juice were ordered for the ladies. The men drove to the Zinat Libas Tailor to have their custom-made Afghan kurtas. Supposedly the kurtas can be ready by tonight.

(Freshly squeezed fruits then to the tailor)

 
We changed some foreign currencies to Afgani at the black market money changers in the busy bazaar. We were back in the hotel after unsuccessful attempt to buy local sim cards. Later we found out that foreigners are not allowed to purchase one. We made do with the hotel wi-fi or tethering with our guide's phone when we were on the road. 

(An attempt to purchase local sim cards) 

(Afghan primary school girls)

Performed our  prayers before going out for a Kabuli beef pilaf rice and crispy roasted chicken for dinner at a local Kabul restaurant. Back at the Khyber Hotel, it was time for a good night's rest before we further explore Kabul tomorrow morning and take the noon flight to Mazar-e Sharif.

(Hungry travelers having dinner in a local eatery)

(Kabuli Palou, salad and sin chai for dinner)

👈Afghan 02: Stop over of a long haul flight in Sharjah...

Afghan 04: Mazar-e Sharif Saidina Ali Blue Mosque ...👉

Afghan 04: Mazar-e Sharif Saidina Ali Blue Mosque and Shrine...

"A successful man is one who can lay a firm foundation with the bricks others have thrown at him..." - David Brinkley

(Makam Saidina Ali)

Day 04: 07 October 2024 (Monday)
Route: KABUL / MAZAR-E SHARIF
Flight: RQ141 KBL 1000 MZR 1100 Ariana Afghan Air
Hotel: Samir Walid Guesthouse, Mazar-e Sharif

Breakfast was at the 5th floor of Khyber Hotel. We had Afghan bread with hard boiled eggs, honeyed cream cheese, salad, followed by double shot coffee. After breakfast we loaded our baggage in two cars and headed for Barbur Gardens to while away time before our flight to Mazar-e Sharif.

 

(Early morning traffic in Kabul)

(Afghan men hurrying to work)

(Afghan roadside stalls selling drinks and snacks)

(The bazaar is opened as early as sunrise)

Barbur Gardens was created by the founder of the Mughal dynasty, Ziihir ad-Din Muhammad Biibur, after his conquest of Kabul in 1504. This Bagh-e Babur is possibly one of the earliest surviving 16th Century Mughal gardens. It is also the site of Biibur's tomb. These gardens are the loveliest spot in Kabul.

(Not many visitors in the early morning)

(The Caravanserai lined with Souvenir Shops)

(The colour of Autumn in the garden)

(Wild berries and vibrant blooms)

(The Garden Pavilion used to entertain royal guests)

(The Shah Jahan Mosque made of white marble)

(Babur's lattice grave enclosure) 

The garden was laid out as a series of 15 stepped terraces on a hillside in southwest Kabul. Its axis points toward Mecca. Babur’s grave is located on the fourteenth terrace and was originally surrounded by a screen of white marble. Although the screen was destroyed by warfare and vandalism in the 20th century, it was rebuilt by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. Southwest of the grave, on the next lower terrace, Shah Jahan built a small mosque in 1645-46. He also rebuilt the water channels that flow through the central axis of the garden, and added a caravanserai marketplace at the base of the garden. On the fifteenth level he buried Babur’s grand-daughter, Ruqaiya Sultan Begum, in a tomb with a marble jali screen. 

(A tame cat in Babur Garden)

(The Haremserai, the Royal Residence)

(A beautiful neat garden of the Haremserai)

(A panoramic view from the terrace)

Lunch was at a Kabuli Palao restaurant before we headed to the Kabul Airport for our domestic flight on Ariana Afghan Airline to Mazar-e Sharif.

(Kabuli Mutton Palao)

Security at the airport was quite strict. Our bag was randomly isolated and checked thoroughly. Once we had our boarding passes, we performed our prayers at the airport prayer room before we departed to Mazar-e Sharif. Arrived safely in Mazar-e Sharif at 11.00 am.

(Heavy rainfall in Kabul before our departure)

(The Ariana Afghan Airline flight was full with Umrah pilgrims)

(Ready to board the 11.00 am flight)

Mazar-e Sharif or just Mazar is the capital of Balkh Province. It has a population of nearly 300,000 people. Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried. A shrine, which was later rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the town of Mazar grew around it. Outside of Afghanistan, most Muslims believe that Saidina Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq which hubby and I had visited in December 2023.

(Barren land contribute more than half of Afghanistan geographical area)

(A lone airplane on the run-way at Mazar-e Sharif Airport)

(Mazar-e Sharif International Airport)

(A long walk to the parking area)

(The airport is funded by Germany and UAE)

The town, however, continued to live in the shadow of its larger neighbor, Balkh, until that city was abandoned due to disease in the mid 19th century. As a result, Mazar assumed the role of the capital of the region - a position it has maintained ever since.

(A common scene in town)

We would be visiting the Saidina Ali Blue Mosque and Shrine after our trip to Balkh tomorrow. The Afghans belief that the Shrine of Saidina Ali is located here. The Blue Mosque has been described as an oasis for peace, and it really does seem like it, considering the thousands of white doves surrounding the mosque. The doves flock on the trees, the roof, and the sidewalks. Legend has it the mosque is so sacred that any dove with a speck of color on its feathers will instantly become pure white after entering the mosque’s vicinity.

(Saidina Ali Shrine and the Blue Mosque)

(Front and back view of Saidina Ali shrine)

According to legend, a Middle Eastern mullah had a dream that Ali bin Abi Talib, the son-in-law and cousin of the prophet Muhammad, had his bones resting in what is now northwestern Afghanistan. Captivated by his story, Ahmad Sanjar, who was the Sultan of the Seljuq Empire from 1118 to 1157, constructed the Shrine of Ali in northwestern Afghanistan. He even constructed a city around the shrine, called Mazar-e Sharif, to which thousands of religious Muslims migrated.

(The tomb under the central dome)

Unfortunately, a century after the shrine was built, Genghis Khan made his westward push. When he reached Mazar-e Sharif, Khan completely destroyed the shrine. But it wasn’t gone for long. In 1481, Sultan Husayn Mizra rebuilt the Shrine of Ali in an even grander fashion, in the form of a giant blue mosque which still exists to this day.

(With friendly Afghans at Saidina Ali Mosque)

(With my Afghan partner)

(White doves at the Shrine of Saidina Ali Blue Mosque)

We went out for dinner of mutton shaslik and bread at Bilal restaurant. After dinner we walked to the Local Bazaar situated at the north side of the park surrounding the Blue Mosque. It is the main bazaar of this northern Afghan city. It's a chaotic, noisy, busy, and utterly interesting marketplace, with stalls selling almost anything imaginable. Wherever we go we were surrounded by local on-lookers and small kids begging for money or sweets.

(Savory mutton shaslik)

After buying fruits and perfume we went back to our hotel by tuk-tuk. Samir Walid Guesthouse, was our accommodations for the next two nights.

(Samir Walid Guest House)

(A map on the wall - The districts in Afghanistan)

👈Afghan 03: The forgotten chapter of a Hippie Trail in Kabul...

     Afghan 05: Balkh, a hub of Zoroastrianism and Buddhism...👉