Afghan 03: The forgotten chapter of a Hippie Trail in Kabul...

 "To succeed in life, you need two things: ignorance and confidence..." - Mark Twain

(Shah Du Shamshire Mosque in Kabul)

Day 03: 06 October 2024 (Sunday)
Route: SHARJAH / KABUL
Flight: G9718 SHJ 0300 KBL 0630 Air Arabia
Hotel: Khyber Hotel, Kabul

By 1:00 am we took two taxis to the Sharjah Airport. We went direct for passport clearance and security check as we already had the boarding pass for our onward journey to Kabul.

 

(A glimpse of snow covered mountains of Afghanistan)

Departed to Kabul on Air Arabia G9718 ETD 0300. Safely arrived at Kabul International Airport at 6.15 am. We were met by our local guides, Hayatullah and Ismail. Two cars were available for us to get to the Khyber Hotel in Kabul. The morning weather was a cool 8°C.

 

(A welcoming sign)

(Kabul International Airport)

Kabul is the capital city of Afghanistan, known for its historical gardens, bazaars, and palaces such as the Gardens of Babur, Darul Aman Palace and the Arg. In the second half of the 20th century, the city became a stop on the hippie trail undertaken by many Europeans and gained the nickname "Paris of Central Asia".

(Kabul - Local street scene)

(Kabul - A war veteran waiting for his transport)

Paratha bread and chick pea curry for breakfast at the Queatta Pakistani Restaurant in Kabul. Complemented by a glass of tasty chai karak, the Afghan hot white coffee.

 

(Trying to decipher the menu)

(Crispy Roti Paratha and steaming Chai Karak)

After an hour's rest, we enjoyed the scenery of Kabul from the rooftop garden of Khyber Hotel before we went out to explore the city. Khyber Hotel is centrally located and surrounded by shops, restaurants, and it is a close walk to the park and a mall. The rooftop garden has an amazing view of the mountains and the city.

(The rooftop garden of Khyber Hotel)

(The hillside houses of Kabul)

Our first destination was the Shah Du Shamshire Mosque, also called the 'Mosque of the King of Two Swords'. The mosque is located on the bank of Kabul river and has the most unusual architecture. Built in the 1920s during Amanullah's drive for modernisation, it looks like it would be more at home in Versailles or Vienna. The facades are all Italianate baroque with stucco detailing, picked out in white against a lurid lemon yellow paint-job. It's 2-storey building is even more peculiar, and only the tiny minarets disclose the building's true purpose.

(Shah Du Shamshire Mosque)

(A tourist and the friendly locals)

The mosque's name is derived from a far older story than Amanullah's strange architectural tastes. In the 7th century Kabul was a Hindu city, besieged by an Arab army. The Arab king was beheaded, but was so inspired that he continued fighting, leading his men to victory at the point of his two scimitars. The mosque’s image could be seen on the 50 Afghani money.

 

(Pigeons feeding - The Bazaar is across the dried up Kabul river)

(Street vendors around the Shah Du Shamshire Mosque)

According to history, when the Muslim army attacked Kabul, Laith Ibn Qais led and commended a section of the Muslim army. After the Muslim armies broke the Dehmazang wall, Laith Ibn Qais fought with two swords during the conquest of Kabul. After the conquest, the army performed their first prayer at this place and later built a mosque there. Laith died during the battle and was buried at the current place of the mosque. The tomb of Laith Ibn Qais is located next to Shah Du Shamshire Mosque.  

(A child selling hp cable at Laith ibni Qais shrine)

(The tomb of Laith ibn Qais)

On the way to the National Museum, we passed the Grand Mosque of Kabul and Darul Aman Palace. Darul Aman Palace has nearly a century of historical significance, and is located 8 km from Kabul city. This palace, featuring a three-story building, contains 150 small and large rooms designed in the European architectural style. This historical monument of the country was constructed during the reign of King Amanullah Khan, to the southwest of Chahar Asyab in Kabul, a place previously known as Afshar Tepe. The palace was used as a temporary isolation and treatment center during the Covid-19 pandemic in Afghanistan. The palace is now closed for renovation.

(The Grand Mosque of Kabul - Masjid Abdul Rahman)

(Darul Aman Palace - Google photo)

The National Museum of Afghanistan is a two-story building located across the street from the Darul Aman Palace in the Darul Aman area of Kabul. It was once considered to be one of the world's finest museums.

(A simple signage to the museum)

(The National Museum of Afghanistan)

(A visit to Afghanistan Cultural Heritage)

(Restoration was funded by Greece)

(Old locomotives and vintage cars exhibition)

(Current exhibitions in the museum)

At Khan Juice Point, freshly squeezed pomegranate, pineapple and mango juice were ordered for the ladies. The men drove to the Zinat Libas Tailor to have their custom-made Afghan kurtas. Supposedly the kurtas can be ready by tonight.

(Freshly squeezed fruits then to the tailor)

 
We changed some foreign currencies to Afgani at the black market money changers in the busy bazaar. We were back in the hotel after unsuccessful attempt to buy local sim cards. Later we found out that foreigners are not allowed to purchase one. We made do with the hotel wi-fi or tethering with our guide's phone when we were on the road. 

(An attempt to purchase local sim cards) 

(Afghan primary school girls)

Performed our  prayers before going out for a Kabuli beef pilaf rice and crispy roasted chicken for dinner at a local Kabul restaurant. Back at the Khyber Hotel, it was time for a good night's rest before we further explore Kabul tomorrow morning and take the noon flight to Mazar-e Sharif.

(Hungry travelers having dinner in a local eatery)

(Kabuli Palou, salad and sin chai for dinner)

👈Afghan 02: Stop over of a long haul flight in Sharjah...

Afghan 04: Mazar-e Sharif Saidina Ali Blue Mosque ...👉