Friday, 18 October 2024

Afghan 09: Herat, the pearl of Khorasan...

"Over and over I marvel at the blessings of my life: Each year has grown better than the last..." - Lawrence Welk

(The Ikhtiar U Din Castle Complex)

Day 09: 12 October 2024 (Saturday)
Route: KABUL / HERAT
Flight: RQ101 KBL 0930 HEA 1100 Kam Air
Hotel: Sadaf International Hotel, Herat


This morning we had breakfast in a rush as we had to board the 10.00 am domestic flight to Herat which was delayed half an hour later than scheduled. There were many people at the arrival area to welcome back the jemaah umrah. Arrived in Herat International Airport at 11.45 am.

(Very early breakfast before the trip)
(A slight flight delay)
(Arriving at Herat International Airport)
(Herat Khwaja Abdullah Ansari International Airport)
(A warm humid day in Herat)
(Visitor Permit from the Ministry of Information and Culture)

We were met by our driver, Zubair. We checked in Sadaf International Hotel located about 16 km from the airport. After a quick freshened up, we went out for a good sumptuous lunch at a nearby restaurant before we started our tour of Herat.

(A tray of Kabuli Lamb and chicken palao for four)
(A good variety of dishes to choose from)

Our first visit today was to Herat National Museum. It stands as a testament to the region's diverse cultural and historical artifacts. The museum is located within the Ikhtiar U Din Castle complex. It houses a collection that spans thousands of years, showcasing the many cultures that have left their imprint on the region. The museum has a significant role to play in educating visitors about the history of Herat and the wider region.

(Rules and regulations at the ticket booth)
(The museum is also housed within the citadel)
(Archways and arcades of the museum)
(Old manuscripts and books))
(Collection of artifacts that span several eras)

Next we explored the Ikhtiar U Din Castle. One of the oldest extant structures in the historic core of Herat is Qala e Ikhtyaruddin, built on the site of an ancient citadel thought to have been established by Alexander in around 330BC. The layout of battlements and towers that survive is thought to date from the early 14th century AD, when the Karts re-built a fortress that had been destroyed by the Mongols. The tilework can still be seen on several towers. The citadel underwent conservation in the 1970’s.

(Also known as Citadel of Alexander the Great)
(Restoration funded by the Aga Khan Trust, the US and German)
(It has served as a military garrison and royal residence)
(An antique gate well preserved - built in 2012)
(A UNESCO World Heritage Site)

The Musalla complex or the Musalla of Gawhar Shah, is a former Islamic religious complex located in Herat, containing examples of Timurid architecture. Much of the 15th-century complex is in ruins today, and the buildings that still stand are in need of restoration. The complex ruins consist of the five Musallah Minarets of Herat, the Mir Ali Sher Navai mausoleum, the Queen Gawhar Shad Mausoleum, and the ruins of a large mosque and a madrasa complex.

(A a remarkable example of Timurid architecture)
(Asar prayers in the garden)
(Six tombs in a row)
(Queen Gawhar Shad, the wife of Timurid ruler Shah Rukh)
(The Shrine of Amir Ali Shir Nava)
(The white marbled tomb) 
(Four of the five remaining minarets)
(The minarets were adorned with blue mosaic tiles)

We wanted to visit the Herat Bazaar but it was already closed. We had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from the roadside vendor before we drove back to our hotel.

(Iced Pomegranate juices to quench our thirst)


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