Monday, 30 April 2018

Caucasus 2018: 07 Yerevan, Armenia - Shushi, Nagorno Karabakh

"Don't ever be controlled by these three things in life - people, money and your past experience..."

(Bracing the snow storm at Bell's Gate)

Day 07: 21 April 2018 (Saturday) 
Route: Yerevan/ Lachin/ Nagorno-Karabakh
Hotel: Shushi Hotel, Nagorno-Karabakh 

This morning we packed our two big bags and left them in the hotel. We only brought one cabin bag with enough clothes for a two-day stay in Nagorno Karabakh. Our plan was to cross into Nagorno Karabakh via Goris and left via Sotk Pass through the snow covered mountains.

By 9.00 am we boarded an old van and travelled to Lachin, the border town of Armenia and Nagorno Karabakh about 300 km from Yerevan. Even before we started driving out of town, we made a detour to a garage to fix the engine. And already, I smelled trouble...

(Driving out of Yerevan towards the mountain)
(Detour to visit Noravank Monastery)

On the way we stopped to visit the 13th century Noravank Complex, located 122 km from Yerevan in a narrow gorge made by the Amaghu River. The gorge is known for its tall, sheer, brick-red cliffs, directly across from the monastery. The monastery is best known for its two-storey Surb Astvatsatsin church, which grants access to the second floor by way of a narrow stone-made staircase jutting out from the face of the building.

(The layout of Noravank Monastery Complex)
(The entrance to the monastery)
(Heavy rain in the vicinity)
(The Cross-stone around the monastery)

The monastery became a residence of Syunik's bishops and, consequently a major religious and, later, cultural center of Armenia closely connected with many of the local seats of learning, especially with Gladzor's famed university and library.

(The church against the brick-red cliff) 
(The steps to the upper prayer hall)
(Climbing the steep and narrow staircase)

After two long hours on the road, the old van stalled on the road side. It was raining heavily and the weather was cold. The driver had to do something to start the engine again. We stopped for lunch at a Fish Restaurant in a small town of Agarakadzor on the way to Goris and performed our prayers in the restaurant.

(Lunch at a fish restaurant)
(Salad and one big green chili)
(A local vegetable dish)
(Delicious baked trouts)
(Strong fragrance purple flowers)

We made another stop at Bell's Gate for photo shots in the snow. Selim caravanserai, the best-preserved caravanserai in Armenia and one of the best preserved in the ancient silk road is situated somewhere nearby.

(The snow-covered Bell Gate area)
(Playing with snow on mountain top)
(The old caravanserai)

The old van was stalling on and off all the way and finally made a complete stop at Ojax coffee shop at Sissian. It was snowing heavily and the weather was chilly to the bone. After toilet break, we warm ourselves with a hot cup of coffee listening to local music while waiting for the stalling engine to be fixed.

(Keeping warm in the van)
(Looking for a place for coffee and comfort stop)

Once the engine was fixed, we headed to the border of Armenia and Nagorno Karabakh. Nagorno-Karabakh is a landlocked region in the South Caucasus, lying between Lower Karabakh and Zangezur and covering the south-eastern range of the Lesser Caucasus Mountains. The region is mostly mountainous.

(Having a steaming cup of coffee)
(At least there was a heater to keep us warm)

It was already dark when we arrived at the border. Border clearance was simple without the need to stamp our passports. This special arrangement was to allow us to enter Azerbaijan later in our tour. Azerbaijan and Armenia are technically at war. If our passport shows any evidence of travel to the republic of Nagorno-Karabakh, we will be denied entry to Azerbaijan and banned from re-entering for life.

(The flags of Armenia and Nagorno Karabakh)
(A small border control office)
(The river separating the border)
(The scene behind the border control office)

After border clearance, we drove the winding road towards our hotel in Shushi, a town in the outskirts of Stephanakert, the capital city of Nagorno Karabakh.

(Hotel Shoushi in Shusha town)
(Waiting for our room key)
(Hot water is available in the kitchen)

We stayed a night in Shushi Hotel. The night was very cold and the small heater was not helping. Luckily there was a small kitchen where we made a flask of hot Nescafe. We ended using double layer of blankets to keep us warm.

(The hotel room was not well heated)
(Attractions around Shushi and Stepanakert)


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