Wednesday, 2 May 2018

2018 Bulgaria Trip - 01 Our Bulgarian Short Holiday...

“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see…” – Henry David Thoreau 

(Turkey/Bulgaria overland border crossing at Kapikule)

Before embarking on our Caucasus trip with a few other experienced travelers, we had arranged for an extension of our stay in Istanbul for another few days. While others planned to visit other parts of Turkey, we decided to visit Sofia, the Capital City of  Bulgaria.

There are many ways to travel to Sofia from Istanbul. The fastest way is to fly by Pegasus Airlines. Another way is to take the overnight sleeper train . We opted to take the bus to enjoy the beautiful landscape and the cheapest mode of transport. 

Turkish buses are very modern and comfortable. They leave from main bus terminal at Bayrampasa. The journey from Istanbul to Sofia is about 9-10 hours by bus. There are many bus companies but Metro Turizm is the largest and it has 5 daily buses leaving for Sofia at different times.

Day 01: 30 April 2018 (Monday)
Route: Istanbul/Sofia
Hotel: Enny Hotel, Sofia

This morning we checked out from Tokapi Inter Hotel Istanbul and packed our cabin bag for a short road trip to Sofia, Bulgaria. Saifudin and his wife, Ani would be travelling together with us.

(A night stay in Topkapi Inter Istanbul Hotel)

The van fetched the group from the hotel around 6.45 am and sent us to Mr. Hazimin's apartment somewhere near Taksim Square for a nasi lemak breakfast. Being away from home for almost three weeks, any kind of Malaysian delicacies is good enough for us.

(Pre-booked Metro bus tickets for four persons)
(Saifudin and Rohani joining us for the road trip)

The four of us left earlier with Uber to the Metro Bus Station to board the 9.00 am coach to Sofia, Bulgaria. The return ticket cost was Euro44/person. The distance between Istanbul and Sofia is 561 km and it took about 9 hours to reach Sofia by coach with a few stops along the way. The coach was comfortable. Unfortunately there was no wifi and the entertainment system was not functioning. Coffee and soft drinks with light snacks were served throughout the journey.

(Exiting Istanbul early in the morning)
(Driving out of Istanbul city)
(Turkey beautiful landscape)

The coach made several rest stops along the way to pick passengers. There was a long queue of lorries waiting to be cleared at the Turkey Kapikule/Bulgaria border. Fortunately, buses and cars have their own lanes and not very busy. Border clearance at both borders were smooth although there was a slight glitch with hubby's passport again at the Turkish side. After the border, we changed some foreign currency to Bulgarian Lev.

(A very long queue before the Turkey/Bulgaria border)
(One of the busiest border out of Turkey)
(A small money changer after the Bulgaria border)
(Bulgarian Lev for our expenses in Sofia)

We arrived Sofia about 6.00 pm. There were many hostels and hotels around the Central Station but we walked a short distance to the Lion Square and booked a two-night stay for BL50/night at Hotel Enny, an old budget hotel with basic amenities. It was a good choice as there were a few halal restaurants around the corner.

(Greece is not far from the border too)
(A short walk from the Central Bus Station to Lion Bridge)
(Many choices of hostels and hotels around this area)
(Kebab and burgers for dinner)

After we checked in and freshened up, we had a simple dinner at a Syrian Doner Kebab Restaurant across the road. Although the bed was noisily squeaking and the springs were poking our ribs, we slept soundly and rested well


2018 Bulgaria Trip: 02 Sofia City Tour...

“Be a good listener. Your ears will never get you in trouble…” – Frank Tyger 

(Alexander Nevsky Catherdral)

Day 02: 01 May 2018 (Tuesday)
Route: Sofia City Tour
Hotel: Enny Hotel, Sofia

Today we decided to go for a city tour of Sofia. As early as 8:00 am we started walking towards Alexander Nevsky Cathedral about 1.5 km from our hotel. Our plan was to take a Hop-on Hop-off bus tour of the city then later explore the city on foot.

As most of the coffee houses and restaurants were still closed, we had Tuna sandwich and hot coffee for breakfast at a Subway Restaurant on the way.

(Ready and eager to explore the city of Sofia)
(An early breakfast at Subway)

At Alexander Nevsky Cathedral we searched for the Hop-on Hop-off bus stand but found none. After asking around, nobody seemed to know about the city tour bus. According to the web page the tour bus only starts at noon and at an hourly interval. We had time to walk around the area and had the opportunity to watch the Labour Day workers demonstration in front of the cathedral.

(The majestic Bulgarian main cathederal)
(The tulips were blooming beautifully)

Because of the Labour Day Demonstration, the Hop-on Hop-off tour bus would only be operating once for today. We were lucky and in time to catch the tour bus. The bus had to use alternative routes and avoided major roads used by the demonstrators. Nevertheless, we managed to see most of the many attractions of Sofia along the route.

(Flags and caps for the demonstrators)
(The start of the march for Labour Day demonstrators)

Sofia is the capital city and the largest settlement in Bulgaria. It is situated in the western part of the Balkan Peninsula country, approximately 55 km from the border with Serbia. Rich in archeological sites, historical remnants and interesting architecture, Sofia city was founded around 7000 BC at the foot of Vitosha Mountain by several Thracian tribes and later to be ruled by various superpowers.

Attractions along the bus city tour route included historical buildings and famous monuments.

The National Assembly Building has been proclaimed a monument of culture for its historic significance. Situated in downtown Sofia, it was designed in Neo-Renaissance style. The building was originally painted in an off-white hue, but since the latter part of the 20th century has been white. The building is depicted on the reverse of the Bulgarian 20 leva banknote, issued in 1999 and 2007.

(The National Assembly Building)

The Monument to the Tsar Liberator is an equestrian monument in the centre of Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. It was erected in honour of Russian Emperor Alexander II who liberated Bulgaria from Ottoman rule during the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-78.

(The Monument to the Tzar)
(Demonstrators around the Monument to the Tzar)

The Monument to the Soviet Army  is a monument located in a large park in Sofia. It is a popular place where many young people gather. The monument portrays a soldier from the Soviet Army as a freedom fighter, surrounded by a Bulgarian woman, holding her baby, and a Bulgarian man. There are other, secondary sculptural composition parts of the memorial complex around the main monument, like the group of soldiers. The monument was built in 1954 on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the liberation by the Soviet Army during World War II.

(The Monument to the Soviet Army)

The Monument to the Unknown Warrior is a monument in located next to the 6th-century Church of St Sophia, on Alexander Nevsky Square. The monument commemorates the hundreds of thousands of Bulgarian soldiers who died in wars defending their homeland. Ceremonies involving the President of Bulgaria and foreign state leaders are often performed here. The Monument to the Unknown Warrior features an eternal flame, turf from Stara Zagora and Shipka Pass, sites of two of the most important battles of the Russo-Turkish War of Liberation. There is a sculpture of a lion which is the national symbol of Bulgaria, and a stone inscription by the national writer.

(The Monument to the Unknown Warrior)
(Bulgarian National Symbol, the Lion)

The Russian Monument is an obelisk: a rectangular pyramid with a truncated top and a three-step pedestal. The eastern side of the memorial features a marble relief of the coat of arms of Russia and the Order of St. George, and a text commemorating Alexander II in pre-reform Russian. The western side features another inscribed plate. It stands in the middle of an important round junction of the Skobelev and Totleben boulevards.

(The Russian Monument)

The Statue of Sveta Sofia erected in 2000, stands in a spot once occupied by a statue of Lenin. Sophia was considered too erotic and pagan to be referred to as a saint. 24 feet in height, the copper and bronze statue. stands on a 48 feet high pedestal. Adorned with the symbols of power (crown), fame (wreath) and wisdom (owl), the crown is also a reference to the Goddess of Fate – Tyche, inspired by the old emblem of Sofia dating back to 1900.

(The Statue of St Sophia)

The Monument of King Samuil was erected just recently to pay respect to the Bulgarian king Samuil, who bravely fought off the Byzantines for years before he passed away.

(The imposing monument of King Samuil)

After the bus tour, we started walking and visited the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a Bulgarian Orthodox cathedral. Built in Neo-Byzantine style, it serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria and it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of Sofia's symbols and primary tourist attractions. The St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia occupies an area of 3,170 sq m and can hold 10,000 people. It is the second-largest cathedral located on the Balkan Peninsula, after the Cathedral of Saint Sava in Belgrade.

(Walking around the Orthodox Cathedral)
(Dance above the clouds statue)
(Antique cap and telescope of WWII)
(Meeting a few Malaysians at the museum)

We missed visiting the Crypt as it was closed on Labour Day. The Crypt is the underground level of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. There keep the largest collection of Orthodox icons in Europe. The icons dated from the 13th to the 19th Century and are displayed beautifully in this unique underground museum.

(The underground Crypt and Museum)

The early Byzantine Church of St Sophia was built in the 6th century on the place of an ancient Roman theatre and several earlier churches. Roman ruins can still be seen nowadays under the city, around the area of Saint Sofia Church. Interesting are also the remnants of the old Roman Theater that could be seen through the glass windows placed on the floor. During the Second Bulgarian Empire the structure served as the cathedral of the city but was later converted to a mosque by the Ottoman Empire.

(The Church of St sophia)

The city of Sofia was built on Roman ruins. We saw many along our walking route. As the Roman Empire expanded during the first century, it occupied Bulgaria. At that time and under the Roman rule there was Serdica, a city of great importance in the whole region. There is a huge old city under the modern buildings in the center of Sofia, but only very small part of it is visible today.

(Many Roman ruins in Sofia city centre)
(An ancient Roman city under the modern city)

Sofia is well known for its mineral springs. The impressive Central Mineral Bath building built on the spot of former Turkish bath is a remarkable monument currently used as temporary exhibition space. The park with public water taps and drinking fountains is popular place where locals fill up free hot mineral water full of nutrients.

(Many mineral water outlets for public)
(A warm spring water fountain)

Next to the water fountains is Banya Bashi Mosque, built by the architect and civil engineer Mimar Sinan. The mosque derives its name from the phrase Banya Bashi, which means many baths. The most outstanding feature of the mosque is that it was actually built over natural thermal spas. One can even see the steam rising from vents in the ground near the mosque walls. The mosque is famous for its large dome and the minaret. Currently, the Banya Bashi Mosque is the only functioning mosque in Sofia, a remnant of the Ottoman rule of Bulgaria that lasted nearly five centuries. We performed our prayers in the mosque.

(Banya Bashi Mosque)
(The only mosque in Sofia)
(The interior of Banya Bashi Mosque)

We had a buffet lunch at Olive Halal Restaurant before we walked to the Central Sofia Market Hall for some souvenir shopping. There were many souvenir shops on the ground floor and a shopping mall on the lower ground where one could buy second hand clothes by the weight.

(Lunch at a Turkish Olive Restaurant)
(Buffet lunch set, reasonably priced)

The Central Sofia Market Hall is a covered market on Maria Louise Blvd. It was opened back in 1911 and today is one of the strategic shopping locations. The style is Neo-Renaissance, and features elements of Neo-Byzantine as well as Neo-Baroque architecture. Interesting features on the facade include the relief of the coat of arms of Sofia above the main entrance and the famous small clock tower with three dials on top of the edifice. The funding for the reconstruction came from an Israeli company - The Star of David. That is why the fountain in the central part of the ground floor has such shape.

(Sofia Central Market)
(Local and foreign products sold here)
(So many choices of Bulgarian souvenirs)

St. Nedelya Church is an Eastern Orthodox Church, a cathedral of the Sofia bishopric of the Bulgarian Patriarchate. Sveta Nedelya is a medieval church that has suffered destruction through the ages and has been reconstructed many times. The present building of the temple is among the landmarks of Sofia.

(St Nedelya Orthodox Church)

A short walk away was the walking street of Vitosha Blvd., Sofia’s main shopping street. This is a semi-pedestrianised area and its worthwhile checking out the side streets as well. Vitosha is a long street which cuts through the centre of Sofia and walking along Vitosha you’ll also see some of Sofia’s nicest buildings, such as the Sofia Court of Justice and Sveta Nedelya Orthodox Church. The boulevard is lined with many posh stores, restaurants Π°nd bars. Vitosha Blvd has been ranked 52nd among the world’s most expensive shopping streets.

(Walking Street of Vitosha Boulevard)
(A busy pedestrian walk along shopping outlets)
(A meeting place for big bikers)
(A nice windy afternoon)

From Vitosha Boulevard we took a long walk back to our hotel. Tonight we had our packed dinner in the room.